University  of  California  •  Berkeley 

THE  PETER  AND  ROSELL  HARVEY 

MEMORIAL  FUND 


WTfsUJMBARJ 

TRANSPORTATION  COMMITTEE. 


FROM  NEW  JERSEY 

TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 


A  History  of  the  Journey  of  the   New  Jersey 

C.  E.  Special  to  the  Sixteenth  International 

C.  E.  Convention,  at  San  Francisco, 

July  6-i2,  1897. 


Compiled  by  the  New  Jersey  Transportation  Manager, 
Rev.  T.  E.  Davis,  of  Bound  Brook,  N.  J. 


PUBLISHED  BY  C.  H.  BATEMAN, 

EDITOR  OF  THE  UNIONIST-GAZETTE, 

SOMBRVILLE,  N.  J. 

1897. 


Press    of 

The  Unionist-Gazette  Association, 
Somerville,   N.  J. 


of  Qontente. 


PAGE. 

Preface,  5 

Preparations  for  the  Great  Journey,  7 

Sights  and  Scenes  of  the  Journey,  15 

The  Scenery.  45 

Living  By  the  Way,  49 

Sleeping  Car  Contemplations,  57 

The  Devotional  Meetings,  -  63 

The  Convention,  -  69 

San  Francisco,  79 

Monterey  and  the  Big  Trees,  85 

Yellowstone  Park,  91 

New  Jersey  C.  E.  Special,  -  99~!38 

Nadura,  100. 

Hebrides,  102. 

Sydenham,  104. 

Superb,  107. 

Saale,  in. 

Alsace,  113. 

Canton,  117. 

Burton,  121. 


4  NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

Utrecht,  125. 

Epsom,  127. 

Proteus,  131. 

Keystone,  135. 

Dorante,  137. 

New  Hampshire,  138. 

Hebrides  Herald,  -        143 

Sydenham  Resolutions,         -  -  -  -  148 


Preface. 


Intelligence,  or  it  may  be  superstition,  seems  to  demand 
a  preface  to  every  book.  There  may  be  no  more  sense  in 
the  preface  than  we  made  of  it  in  our  school-boy  days,  viz : 
"Peter  Riley  Eats  Fish  And  Catches  Eels,"  etc.  No  one 
reads  a  preface,  of  course.  It  was  not  made  to  be  read.  It 
is  like  the  buttons  on  the  sleeves  or  skirts  of  a  coat,  neither 
useful  nor  ornamental,  but  the  publisher  and  critic  demand 
it,  and  so  our  preface  is  here. 

We  have  no  apology  to  offer  for  this  book.  It  is  pre 
pared  as  a  history  and  souvenir  of  the  wonderful  and  suc 
cessful  journey  of  the  New  Jersey  C.  E.  Special  to  Califor 
nia,  at  the  request  of  many  of  the  passengers.  We  offer  it 
as  a  memorial  of  this  "trip  of  a  lifetime." 

Every  year  will  make  this  book  more  valuable.  The 
journey  across  the  continent  will  be  taken  each  time  it  is 
read,  and  we  will  live  over  again  and  again  those  happy 
days.  Many  of  our  new  made  friends  will  be  our  friends 
for  life,  and  not  until  our  eyes  behold  the  land  of  unfading 
beauty  will  we  forget  the  delightful  scenes  of  our  own 
native  land. 

The  journey  of  the  New  Jersey  Special,  including  the  six 
days'  stay  in  San  Francisco,  extended  over  twenty-six  days, 
and  the  party  travelled  over  8,300  miles.  We  crossed  the 
greatest  rivers  of  our  country,  visited  its  largest  cities, 
crossed  its  most  fertile  plains  and  valleys,  passed  within 


6  NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

sight  of  its  highest  mountains,  and  saw  its  finest  fruit 
orchards  and  richest  grain  fields. 

One  of  the  party  in  describing  this  trip,  writes:  "I  vis 
ited  twenty-two  states,  passed  through  two  hundred  and 
fifty  cities  and  towns,  crossed  seven  mountain  ranges,  went 
through  eighty-seven  tunnels,  saw  twenty-one  snow-cap 
ped  peaks,  crossed  ninety-one  rivers,  saw  fifty-four  lakes, 
rode  on  fifteen  steamboats,  twelve  different  railroads,  and 
over  one  hundred  street  car  lines,  saw  forty-seven  water 
falls,  three  snow  storms,  three  glaciers,  thirty-five  geysers, 
five  thousand  hot  springs,  received  ten  thousand  kind 
nesses,  and  only  one  unkind  word,  etc." 

The  record  of  such  a  trip  should  be  held  in  "everlasting 
remembrance." 

The  thanks  of  all  those  who  were  on  the  New  Jersey  C. 
E.  Special  are  due  to  the  generous  contributors  who  fur 
nished  the  articles  for  this  book.  We  add  a  list  of  such 
names  as  far  as  known: 

Rev.  L.  R.  Dyott,  Mr.  N.  Y.  Dungan, 

F.  C.  Ottman,  H.  H.  Wainwright, 

J.  B.  Kugler,  W.  F.  Overman, 

A.  P.  Peake,  C.  H.  Bateman, 

A.  I.  Martine,  F.  A.  Foster, 

D.  R.  Warne,  Miss  Mary  F.  Van  Alen, 

A.  A.  Murphy,  Rose  M.  Egbert, 

.     W.  E.  Davis,  H.  Estelle  Roe, 

W.  T.  S.  Lumbar,  Jennie  A.  Wrigley, 

T.  E.  Davis,  R.   Anna  Miller, 
Miss  Margaret  J.  Wade. 


Preparations  for  %  @reat  £) 


And  now  it  came  to  pass  when  the  Christian  Endeav 
orers -had  become  mighty  in  the  land,  even  an  exceeding 
great  army,  that  the  chief  rulers  said  we  will  hold  a  grand 
convocation  in  the  city,  which  is  on  the  borders  of  the 
great  western  sea.  And  so  this  decree  was  issued  and 
noised  abroad  throughout  all  the  land  and  across  the  sea, 
even  to  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth:  Behold  the  Six 
teenth  Annual  Convention  draweth  nigh.  On  the  seventh 
day  of  the  seventh  month,  all  good  Endeavorers  who  have 
talents  of  gold  and  talents  of  silver  will  meet  together  in 
the  great  temple  called  the  Mechanic's  Pavilion,  which  is 
in  the  city  of  San  Francisco. 

Now  in  those  days  Clement,  who  was  of  the  house  of 
French,  a  man  of  goodly  countenance  and  of  high  repute, 
was  the  chief  ruler  of  the  Endeavorers  in  the  land  which  is 
called  New  Jersey. 

Now  when  Clement  had  called  all  his  chief  officers  and 
captains  together  in  the  great  city,  which  is  Trenton,  he 
said,  men  and  brethren,  behold  tidings  have  come  to  me  of 
a  mighty  gathering  of  our  people  in  the  far-away  land  of 
California.  And  it  has  further  come  to  my  ears  that  many 
of  our  young  men  and  maidens,  likewise  old  men  and  lone 
widows  are  going  thither. 

Now  it  is  not  good  that  maidens  and  widows  should  be 
alone. 


8  NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

And  I  have  heard  also  there  are  many  dangers  by  the- 
way,  also  robbers  and  beasts  of  prey  that  may  injure  or 
molest  our  unprotected  daughters  and  sisters.  Let  us, 
therefore,  select  one  of  our  number,  a  man  discreet  and 
valorous,  who  shall  conduct  our  people  safely  to  the  great 
assembly  and  bring  them  hither  in  peace. 

And  the  thing  seemed  good  to  all  those  who  were  in 
authority. 

And  Clement  said,  whom  shall  we  select  and  who  shall 
our  chosen  leader  be? 

And  a  certain  beardless  young  man  whose  surname  was 
Mason,  said,  there  is  one  in  our  midst  who  has  had 
experience  in  such  matters.  Titus,  who  sojourns  on  the 
great  river,  that  is  the  Raritan,  and  now  if  it  seems  good  to 
all  who  are  present,  I  move  that  we  cast  our  lots  for  him  as 
our  Transportation  Manager. 

And  the  thing  seemed  good  to  all  the  chief  officers  and 
captains  and  they  all  cast  lots  for  Titus. 

Now  when  Titus  was  chosen  to  lead  the  Endeavorers. 
from  New  Jersey  to  the  land  which  is  nigh  unto  the  Golden 
Gate,  he  said,  behold  now  it  is  a  mighty  work  and  I  fear 
lest  the  burden  be  too  heavy  for  one  alone  to  bear. 

So  I  will  choose  other  men,  and  they  shall  be  men  of  wis 
dom  and  of  great  courage  and  of  exceeding  great  patience,, 
for  the  journey  is  long  and  there  will  be  many  evil  and 
troublesome  people  who  will  greatly  harass  and  vex  us. 
So  he  appointed  William,  who  dwelt  among  the  cedars  of 
Lebanon,  and  Elias,  upon  whom  the  mantle  of  Nathaniel 
had  fallen. 

He  also  selected  Sherman  for  the  long  march  across  the- 
country,  and  Ruby  of  the  tribe  of  Dan. 

But  these  were  all  men  of  peace.  None  of  them  were, 
accustomed  to  the  sound  of  war. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.  9 

Therefore,  Titus  said,  peradventure,  we  may  meet  giants 
in  the  land  whither  they  go.  These  men  may  be  fearful  and  flee 
when  no  man  pursueth.  I  will,  therefore,  select  a  man  who 
shall  be  a  terror  to  every  foe  that  we  may  meet  in  the  wild 
country  through  which  we  journey.  And  so  Abram  the 
Great,  he  of  the  mighty  stature  and  fearful  mien  was  chosen. 
For  it  is  still  well  known  how  on  the  foot  ball  fields  of 
Princeton,  Yale  and  Columbia  he  had  been  victorious  over 
many  a  mighty  foe.  Now  these  are  the  men  who  were  to 
lead  the  Endeavorers  to  the  Convention  by  the  great  wes 
tern  sea,  but  Titus  was  chief. 

Now  when  the  days  were  near  at  hand  that  the  journey 
should  begin  Titus  said,  behold  there  are  many  of  the 
aged  who  will  go  with  us,  likewise  there  are  many  young 
and  tender  maidens.  Now  the  distance  is  too  great  for 
them  to  journey  on  foot;  nor  can  Abram  and  the  other 
mighty  men  carry  them  all  the  way  over  the  high  moun 
tains  and  through  the  deep  rivers. 

And  so  it  was  that  Titus  said  to  Samuel,  who  was  of  the 
house  of  Wilson,  the  same  was  the  faithful  servant  of 
George,  who  dwelt  in  the  town  of  Pullman,  behold  now  I 
have  a  great  host  of  people  who  will  go  with  me  to  the 
great  assembly  in  the  land  of  gold,  and  I  have  heard  that 
George,  thy  master,  is  well  able  to  transport  all  of  our  peo 
ple,  so  that  none  of  them  need  to  go  on  foot.  Now  I  be 
seech  thee  send  this  message  to  thy  master. 

Thy  servants,  the  Endeavorers,  which  dwell  in  the  land 
of  mosquitos,  otherwise  called  New  Jersey,  desire  some  of 
the  finest  carriages  to  convey  them  to  the  great  meeting. 

And  George  answered  Samuel.  It  is  well.  Behold  it 
hath  already  been  told  me  that  our  brethren  in  New  Jersey 
are  of  good  understanding  and  honorable  character,  Now 
thus  shall  ye  do  and  more  also  unto  them.  The  very  finest 


io          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

of  the  cars  that  are  in  the  region  round  about  Gotham  shall 
be  given  to  the  brethren  from  New  Jersey,  and  in  these 
shall  they  go  on  their  long  journey,  and  in  these  shall  they 
return.  And  if  any  shall  say  unto  thee,  why  showest  thou 
these  favors  unto  the  Endeavorers  from  New  Jersey,  thou 
shalt  answer,  these  are  the  people  whom  George  delighteth 
to  honor. 

Now  when  Titus  had  communicated  with  all  those  who 
were  in  authority  in  his  own  country,  he  found  that  many 
could  not  go.  One  had  married  a  wife  and  domestic  duties 
and  responsibilities  were  too  great.  Another  was  hoping 
to  be  married  soon,  and,  therefore,  could  not  go  now. 
Others  had  urgent  business  that  hindered  their  going,  and 
still  others  whose  shekels  had  not  multiplied  sufficiently, 
could  not  go.  Two  of  the  great  men,  Clement  and  Cor 
nelius  said,  wherefore  now  should  we  cross  this  vast  coun 
try  again.  We  have  journeyed  once  over  its  plains  and 
mountains,  and  it  is  not  needful  that  we  go  now,  for  Luther 
who  is  also  a  chief  officer  and  a  mighty  captain,  and  withal 
an  honorable  man,  will  go  with  you,  so  while  Titus  leads 
and  Abram  terrifies  the  foe,  Luther  will  provide  a  rich  diet 
to  feed  upon.  So  of  all  the  chief  men  and  women  in  this 
goodly  land  of  New  Jersey,  only  five  did  go  to  the  great 
convention,  Luther  and  Titus,  with  William  the  good 
physician,  and  the  other  William  the  good  citizen,  and 
Elias  the  sweet  singer  from  the  great  falls. 

And  now  when  the  thing  began  to  be  noised  abroad, 
there  was  a  great  tumult  in  all  the  province,  and  the  peo 
ple  began  to  write  to  Titus  to  ask  about  the  trip  and  the 
wondrous  things  they  would  see,  and  the  price  thereof. 
And  they  sent  so  many  Epistles  that  the  number  thereof 
was  three  score  and  ten  each  day.  And  many  could  not 
wait  to  write,  but  came  in  haste  to  the  town  where  Titus 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97          n 

dwelt;  even  a  great  crowd  so  that  he  could  scarcely  eat  or 
sleep  for  waiting  on  them.  And  when  the  number  multi 
plied  exceedingly,  Titus  said,  the  people  who  are  to  go 
with  me  are  already  a  great  host,  and  I  cannot  take  any 
more,  for  I  cannot  give  them  food  to  eat,  nor  can  I  find 
lodging  places  for  them,  neither  can  I  bring  them  to  the 
Convention  in  time.  But  the  crowd  besought  him  the  more 
eagerly,  saying,  we  must  go  with  thee,  and  we  will  lodge 
upon  the  floor  of  the  car;  and  others  said,  when  we  come 
to  the  desert  we  will  feed  on  the  sand  which  is  there. 
And  because  of  their  vehemence  of  speech,  and  because 
they  troubled  him,  Titus  said,  I  will  secure  other  cars  and 
there  shall  be  a  second  train  and  you  shall  go.  Howbeit 
when  trouble  or  delay  or  hunger  comes,  know  ye  that  all 
things  have  come  to  pass  because  of  the  vast  multitude, 
and  ye  must  not  murmur  or  complain.  And  they  said,  we 
will  not  murmur  or  complain. 

Nevertheless,  many  of  them  forgot  all  their  good  prom 
ises,  and  ceased  not  to  .grumble,  except  for  the 
few  hours  when  sleep  closed  their  mouths,  and  there 
was  peace. 

And  now  it  came  to  pass  when  four  hundred  and  two 
score  and  ten  were  numbered  among  those  who  were  to  go 
to  the  great  Convention,  that  Titus  said,  I  will  not  take 
any  more.  And  so  the  number  of  those  who  were  turned 
away  was  an  hundred  and  thirty  and  six.  Nevertheless  on  the 
day  when  the  host  departed  there  were  some  who  said,  we 
have  loved  ones  who  are  going,  and  we  must  go  with  them, 
and  others  climbed  up  some  other  way  into  the  cars,  and 
were  not  found  until  far  on  the  journey. 

And  behold  when  they  were  numbered  it  was  found 
there  were  four  hundred  and  four  score  and  one  souls  in 
the  great  company.  And  the  hearts  of  Titus  and  the  chief  cap- 


12          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

tains  with  him  waxed  sore,  and  they  said,  what  shall  we  do 
with  all  these  people,  and  where  shall  they  lodge. 

But  when  the  night  was  fully  come,  a  lodging  place  had 
been  found  for  every  man  and  woman,  so  that  only  one  had 
to  recline  upon  the  floor. 

Now  among  this  mighty  host  there  were  many  good  and 
honorable  men  and  youth,  likewise  women  and  maidens. 
So  that  as  they  journeyed  the  people  in  the  towns  whither 
they  came  were  greatly  astonished  and  said,  we  have  seen 
many  trains  from  the  East,  but  none  which  held  so  many 
wise  men  and  such  fair  women.  Truly  these  are  the  fairest  and 
best  of  the  sons  of  men.  And  when  it  was  told  them  that  all 
these  were  Endeavorers  from  the  goodly  land  of  New  Jersey, 
they  were  the  more  astonished,  and  said,  since  they  have 
brought  all  their  people  with  them,  wherefore  did  they  not 
also  carry  their  country  along. 

Now  in  the  great  multitude  that  journeyed  westward, 
there  were  one  and  twenty  High  Priests,  beside  one  tender 
youth  who  was  preparing  for  the  same  office.  And  these 
men  all  did  good  service  in  ministering  to  the  spiritual 
wants  of  the  people,  and  warning  the  unruly  and  wayward 
ones. 

But  these  men  could  not  relieve  the  aching  body  and 
drive  away  pain,  and  so  it  was  deemed  prudent  to  take 
along  skillful  men  and  women,  who  should  act  as  phy 
sicians  to  Ward  off  disease,  and  who  would  not  be  Slack  in 
answering  the  calls  of  the  needy  and  suffering  when  they 
might  Howl  with  pain.  And  so  eight  of  the  wisest  and  best 
of  all  the  physicians  in  New  Jersey  were  taken  along.  And 
these  men  and  women  did  noble  service  and  were  held 
in  high  esteem  by  all  the  people. 

There  came  also  other  great  men  who  were  renowned 
as  doctors  of  the  law,  and  whose  fame  had  already  spread 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          13 

iar  and  wide.  Among  them  was  Nelson,  also  a  great 
musical  author.  Bloomfield  the  Littel,  and  Halstead  the 
great  historian. 

These  men  also  rendered  great  service  so  that  no  one  of 
this  great  multitude  from  New  Jersey  were  put  in  prison 
-or  hanged  during  the  journey. 

And  the  number  of  those  who  were  given  to  the  train 
ing  of  the  youth  far  exceeded  those  of  any  other  occupa 
tion.  So  that  the  teachers  alone  were  more  than  a  hun 
dred  who  went  from  New  Jersey  to  the  great  Convention. 

And  now  when  all  things  were  ready,  and  when  each 
one  had  paid  their  fare,  the  great  trains  began  to  move,  and 
the  long  journey  was  begun. 

But  the  great  things  that  happened  by  the  way,  and  the 
wondeiful  things  that  were  seen,  behold  now  are  not  these 
all  written  in  the  chronicles  of  the  wise  men  and  women 
that  follow. 


»i|l?fs  and  Scenes  of 


On  Monday  morning,  June  28,  1897,  at  nine  o'clock,  the 
New  Jersey  Endeavorers  and  their  friends  started  on  their 
long  journey  across  the  continent,  to  attend  the  Sixteenth 
International  Convention  of  the  C.  E.  Society  at  San  Fran 
cisco.  Fourteen  Pullman  palace  cars  were  required  to 
carry  the  large  party.  These  made  a  train  so  large  that  it 
was  necessary  to  divide  it  into  two  sections,  one  of  which 
was  in  charge  of  the  Transportation  Manager,  Rev.  T.  E. 
Davis,  and  the  other  under  the  care  of  one  of  his  assistants, 
Rev.  A.  I.  Martine. 

Short  stops  were  made  to  take  on  passengers  at  Elizabeth- 
port,  Elizabeth,  Plainfield,  Bound  Brook,  Trenton  and 
Philadelphia.  After  leaving  the  last  city,  the  passengers 
felt  that  the  long  journey  had  really  begun,  and  began  to 
look  around  and  acquaint  themselves  with  those  who  were 
to  be  their  companions  for  that  ride  of  over  eight  thou 
sand  miles.  Many  new  friendships  were  thus  formed  that 
will  never  fade  until  time  itself  shall  end. 

The  first  day's  ride  was  through  the  states  of  New  Jersey, 
Pennsylvania,  Delaware  and  Maryland.  It  is  indeed  a  pic 
turesque  country  through  which  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio 
trains  pass,  but  the  scenery  is  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
magnificent  sights  that  awaited  us  farther  on.  A  short  stop 
at  Harper's  Ferry  was  allowed  the  first  section,  but  only 
2 


16          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

long  enough  to  gain  a  glimpse  of  the  beautiful  Potomac 
River  as  it  breaks  through  the  Alleghany  Mountains. 

The  monument  which  marks  the  place  made  famous  by 
John  Brown,  was  the  only  object  of  historic  interest  seen. 
During  the  night  the  Appalachian  Mountains  were 
crossed,  and  when  the  Endeavorers  awoke  on  Tuesday 
morning,  they  found  no  scenery  which  even  approached 
that  of  New  Jersey.  There  were  only  the  flat,  marshy 
fields  and  stunted  woods  of  Southern  Indiana  and  Illinois 
during  all  that  day,  and  many  a  heart  felt  a  growing  pride 
in  Jersey,  as  compared  with  what  they  saw  of  these  states. 

At  Cincinnati  a  good  breakfast  was  served  at  the  Grand 
Hotel,  on  Tuesday  morning,  but  there  was  no  time  to  look 
at  this  'Ohioan  city.  We  took  dinner  at  Vincennes,  and 
arrived  at  St.  Louis  about  two  hours  late.  At  least  this  is 
the  story  of  the  first  section  which  reached  this  western  end 
of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio.  The  second  section  was  four 
hours  late,  and  having  been  that  late  for  their  dinners  at 
Vincennes,  they  were  not  in  a  very  agreeable  humor  when 
they  came  up  with  their  comrades  for  the  first  time  since 
the  start  from  New  York.  The  atmosphere  in  the  mag 
nificent  depot  in  St.  Louis  was  stifling — aye,  it  fairly  siz 
zled  the  journeying  Endeavorers  from  more  northern  lati 
tudes.  A  few  went  to  the  Planter's  Hotel  and  delighted 
themselves  inspecting  the  Turkish  rooms  and  the  other 
beautiful  appointments,  but  the  city  was  dark  and  forbid 
ding,  and  with  melted  collars  and  streaming  brows  the 
travellers  soon  returned  to  the  trains,  and  endeavored  to 
fan  themselves  into  coolness,  while  they  waited  impatiently 
for  the  orders  of  the  despatchers  to  start  the  trains.  But 
all  things  end  in  this  world,  and  about  mid-night  the  first 
section  pulled  out  of  the  St.  Louis  station,  closely  followed 
by  the  second  division. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          17 

From  St.  Louis  to  Kansas  City  the  state  was  traversed  at 
night,  but  the  latter  city  was  reached  three  hours  late,  and 
during  the  whole  trip  the  heat  was  intense.  Sleep  was 
scarcely  possible,  and  it  was  a  tired  and  hungry  lot  of  En- 
•deavorers  who  alighted  for  breakfast  at  ten  o'clock  on 
Wednesday.  There  they  found  plenty  of  the  same  kind 
of  Endeavorers  waiting  for  their  trains  to  go  out.  The 
heat  in  the  train  yards  was  almost  unbearable,  but  the 
travellers  remained  there  for  three  hours,  while  the  man 
who  despatched  the  trains  sat  coolly  locked  in  his  tower, 
and  refused  to  give  out  any  information  to  the  sweltering 
crowds.  When  the  trains  finally  moved  out  towards  the 
western  plains,  there  were  no  regrets  left  behind  for  Kansas 
City. 

The  trip  across  Kansas  was  enjoyed  more  than  that  of 
any  other  state  previously  crossed.  The  scenery  along  the 
Rock  Island  road  is  very  picturesque.  The  growing  crops 
and  trees  look  beautiful  this  year.  The  big  corn  fields 
promise  a  tremendous  yield,  and  acres  upon  acres  of  pota 
toes  stretch  along  the  railroad.  The  thrifty,  well-kept 
farms,  and  the  neat  farm  houses  and  buildings  are  in 
marked  contrast  with  those  of  Indiana  and  Ohio.  When 
the  prairies  were  reached  in  western  Kansas,  there  were 
many  interesting  things  to  attract  the  eastern  eye.  The 
small  homes  of  the  farmers,  the  strange  looking  villages 
with  one-story  houses,  the  prairie  dogs,  the  abandoned  sod 
houses  the  big  canvas  covered  wagons  and  many  other  ob 
jects  took  up  their  attention.  The  intense  heat  had  been  fol 
lowed  by  cool  breezes,  and  altogether  it  was  a  pleasant 
time. 

But  it  was  to  Colorado  that  all  eyes  were  looking  for 
ward  with  eager  expectation.  Early  on  the  morning  of 
July  i,  the  boundary  line  between  Kansas  and  Colorado 


i8          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

was  crossed,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  became  visible,  but 
it  was  two  in  the  afternoon  when  the  last  section  approached 
the  Manitou  station.  As  two  o'clock  the  following  morn 
ing  was  the  hour  fixed  for  leaving,  there  were  many  disap 
pointed  cries  from  those  who  had  anticipated  so  much 
from  their  stay  in  this  magnificent  spot.  When  the  two 
locomotives,  which  were  pulling  the  train  up  the  steep 
grade,  were  stalleU  when  half  way  up  the  last  hill,  the  im 
patience  broke  out  with  a  vehemence.  But  we  were  finally 
deposited  at  the  little  station  almost  at  the  base  of  Pike's 
Peak,  and  during  the  lunch  at  the  Manitou  House,  every 
one's  spirits  were  aroused  by  the  announcement  that  the 
time  of  staying  would  be  extended  until  two  o'clock  the 
next  afternoon.  Every  New  Jersey  Endeavorer  hurried 
with  his  or  her  lunch,  and  every  moment  of  the  time  was 
occupied  with  drives  through  the  Garden  of  the  gods,  and 
the  various  canons  famed  throughout  the  world  for  their 
picturesque  beauty,  or  in  ascending  Pike's  Peak,  whose 
rugged  brow  frowned  upon  the  lesser  heights  below. 

The  Garden  of  the  gods,  how  strange!  Nature  was  in 
a  weird  mood  when  she  formed  these  rocks.  Entering 
from  the  Manitou  side  we  pass  Balance  Rock,  a  huge  mass 
which  has  so  slender  a  foundation  as  to  make  one  feel  that 
it  is  about  to  fall  over.  On  one  side  stands  a  statue  of  lib 
erty  leaning  on  her  shield,  with  the  conventional  Phrygian 
cap  on  her  head;  there  is  a  gigantic  frog,  a  turtle,  a  lion, 
all  carved  in  sandstone;  yonder  is  a  pilgrim,  staff  in  hand; 
just  a  little  further  is  the  plain  figure  of  a  woman;  there 
are  a  seal  and  the  large  figure  of  an  elephant.  These  all 
stand  out  so  clearly  that  it  would  seem  some  Titan  hand 
had  carved  these  shapes.  In  some  instances  the  figures  are 
of  red  sandstone,  and  the  pedestals  are  of  contrasting  hue. 
It  would  not  take  a  lively  imagination  to  discover  in  this 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          19 

Garden  an  endless  variety  of  imitative  forms  of  human 
beings,  of  birds  and  beasts  and  reptiles.  They  stand  on  the 
hillsides  above  and  around  us.  They  are  right  by  our 
wagon  wheels.  They  seem  to  be  real  living  beings,  with 
whom  we  would  fain  be  acquainted,  but  for  whom  we  have 
too  much  veneration.  Now  we  ascend  to  the  top  of  a  hill 
and  a  panorama  of  surpassing  grandeur  is  about  us.  Be 
hind  rises  Pike's  Peak,  bare,  forbidding,  grand,  with  her 
fellows,  clad  in  deep  green,  cowering  close  to  her  skirts. 
Before,  we  see  the  grandest  formations  of  the  Garden — 
the  great  rocks  forming  a  natural  gateway  to  it.  Two 
lofty  tablets  of  carnelian-colored  sandstone,  set  directly 
opposite  each  other,  about  fifty  feet  apart,  and  rising  to  a 
height  of  three  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  form  the  portals  of 
this  far-famed  gateway.  On  the  top  of  one  of  these  rocks 
is  the  distinct  figure  of  a  lamb,  while  the  top  of  the  other 
is  shaped  into  the  form  of  a  huge  lion.  Surely  if  this  is  the 
work  of  nature,  the  lion  and  the  lamb  have  been  made  to 
lie  down  together.  Just  to  the  right  of  the  gateway  are 
the  cathedral  spires,  which  are  of  a  similar  character  to  the 
gateway,  but  their  crests  are  sharply  splintered  into  spire- 
like  pinnacles. 

The  brilliant  carnelian  hue  of  these  sandstones,  outlined 
against  the  deep  blue  sky,  and  gilded  by  the  light  of  a  Col 
orado  sun,  cannot  be  described.  We  passed  out  of  the 
Gardens  through  these  wonderful  portals  with  the  same 
feeling  that  one  would  have  in  emerging  from  one  of  the 
great  English  cathedrals. 

Some  of  the  New  Jersey  party  who  arrived  on  the  first 
section  earlier  in  the  day,  ascended  Pike's  Peak  the  same 
afternoon,  but  for  the  others,  through  the  persistent  efforts 
of  several  members  of  the  party,  a  special  sunrise  trip  was 
arranged  by  the  Cog  Wheel  Railway.  It  was  with  some 


20          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

discomfort  that  we  arose  at  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  and 
started  for  the  railway  station,  and  it  was  still  more  annoy 
ing  to  be  obliged  to  wait  at  the  station  for  two  hours  for 
the  train  to  steam  up,  but  we  were  on  our  way  to  the  sum 
mit  ere  the  first  streaks  of  dawn  appeared  over  the  peaks. 
Pike's  Peak  is  not  the  highest  one  in  Colorado.  There  are 
twenty  others  which  rise  from  a  few  feet  to  three  hundred 
feet  higher,  but  Pike's  Peak  is  the  most  accessible.  For 
merly  its  top  could  only  be  reached  by  bold  climbers,  or  on 
the  backs  of  burros,  but  now  the  trip  can  be  made  in  an 
hour  by  the  cog  railway.  Every  eastern  traveler  is  disap 
pointed  at  the  height  of  the  peak,  which  is  14,147  feet  above 
sea  level,  but  this  is  due  to  a  comparison  with  eastern 
mountains,  without  a  consideration  of  the  surrounding 
height.  The  town  of  Manitou  is  6,324  feet  above  sea  level, 
which  is  about  the  height  of  Mount  Washington  in  New 
Hampshire.  Just  outside  of  Colorado  Springs  we  were 
shown  a  small  hill  about  two  hundred  feet  high,  called 
Mount  Washington,  because  its  height  is  just  that  of  the 
mountain  which  so  many  tourists  ascend  in  the  East. 
Starting  from  a  base  which  was  on  a  line  with  the  top  of 
Mount  Washington,  Pike's  Peak  towers  eight  thousand 
feet  above.  Huge  banks  of  snow  could  be  seen  glistening 
in  the  sun  light  during  the  day  previous,  while  it  was  quite 
warm  at  Manitou. 

The  cars  are  not  drawn  up  by  cables,  but  are  pushed  by 
a  locomotive  in  the  rear.  In  some  places  the  grades  are 
startling,  but  the  curious  engines  seem  to  have  no  trouble 
in  pushing  steadily  upward.  It  is  eight  miles  from  the 
starting  point  to  the  summit.  Thick  woods  of  hemlock^ 
oak  and  fir  trees  are  on  either  side  as  we  gradually  ascend. 
Huge  masses  of  rocks  are  piled  up  to  the  height  of  a 
thousand  feet,  one  big  boulder  hanging  to  another  in  the 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          21 

wildest  profusion,  as  though  they  had  been  thrown 
there  by  some  great  upheaval  of  nature.  Beautiful 
ravines  we  pass  through,  down  which  tumble  mountain 
streams,  with  an  occasional  waterfall  leaping  many  feet 
from  rock  to  rock.  Nature  begins  to  exhibit  her  most 
stern  characteristics.  As  we  get  above  the  tops  of  the 
smaller  peaks,  a  splendid  panorama  presents  itself.  The 
sky  is  without  clouds,  except  near  the  horizon.  The  sun 
is  yet  hidden  behind  the  peaks,  but  is  stretching  up  her 
rosy  arms  towards  the  zenith.  Now  we  are  at  timber  line. 
Above  us  rise  the  bare  rocks  and  loose  sand,  which  form 
the  barren  summit  of  the  mountain  we  are  ascending.  Not 
a  twig  to  be  seen,  but  a  few  patches  of  snow  to  relieve  the 
gray.  Below  us  the  beautiful  green  foliage,  the  mountain 
flowers  in  such  marked  contrast  to  the  barrenness  about 
us.  Away  out  on  the  vistas  beyond,  to  the  south,  to  the 
east,  such  a  glorious  view  of  mountain  ranges  in  successive 
heights,  outlined  against  the  sky,  most  of  them  clad  in  their 
foliage  of  green,  but  some  of  the  higher  peaks  capped  witn 
snow. 

The  first  rays  of  the  sun  are  now  touching  these  peaks, 
and  as  each  of  them  are  lighted  up,  the  effect  is  beyond  the 
pen  to  describe.  One  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  away 
the  eye  can  see  these  magnificent  mountains,  whose  snow 
caps  are  painted  in  so  many  different  colors  by  the  king 
of  the  morning,  who  has  now  aroused  himself  to  his  daily 
task.  It  is  a  glorious  sight  which  must  impress  one  with 
its  grandeur  so  long  as  the  mind's  eye  can  see. 

As  we  approach  the  summit,  the  atmosphere  gets  very 
cold,  and  the  warmest  wraps  do  not  feel  amiss.  There  are 
huge  banks  of  snow  on  either  side  of  the  track,  and  we 
seem  to  have  been  suddenly  transported  to  some  frigid 
clime.  The  grade  is  very  steep  here,  and  the  timid  shrink 


22          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

from  looking  down  the  way  we  have  come.  Round  and 
round  the  peak  we  go,  higher  and  higher,  until  at  last  with 
a  loud  snort  the  hump-backed  locomotive  gives  us  a  final 
push  right  up  on  the  top,  and  beyond  where  any  other 
railroad  reaches.  We  alight  and  then  drink  in  the  glorious 
view  of  nature's  grandest  works,  with  a  clear  atmosphere 
and  the  sun  still  adding  his  touches  as  he  ascends  the  heav 
ens.  It  is  a  sight  not  soon  to  be  forgotten.  The  summit 
is  not  of  large  extent,  and  the  party  wandered  about  on  the 
snow  and  ice,  gathering  souvenirs,  shivering  with  cold  and 
forgetful  that  it  was  July  2,  and  a  sweltering  day  at  home. 
Several  were  severely  affected  by  the  high  altitude,  and 
were  obliged  to  keep  quiet  during  their  stay  on  the  summit. 

The  descent  was  noteworthy,  only  in  a  repetition  of  the 
views  already  described,  and  it  was  a  hungry  party  which 
arrived  at  the  Manitou  House  about  an  hour  later  for 
breakfast. 

Pike's  Peak  is  only  one  of  the  glories  of  Manitou.  Few 
places  have  so  many.  Surrounded  by  sublimities,  the  visi 
tor  may  stay  a  long  time  without  being  at  a  loss  for  a  new 
canon  or  mountain  stream  or  other  point  of  interest.  They 
abound  in  every  direction.  The  members  of  the  New  Jer 
sey  Special  scattered  through  the  mountains,  and  at  most 
of  the  points  of  interest  could  be  seen  the  orange  and  black 
badge  of  the  Christian  Endeavorers.  We  visited  Chey 
enne  canon,  some  distance  from  Colorado  Springs,  and  it 
proved  a  most  delightful  trip.  The  rocky  walls  of  the 
canon  rise  2,000  feet  straight  above  the  roadway,  which 
winds  along  a  beautiful  stream.  The  falls  at  the  head  of 
the  canon  are  very  beautiful.  This  was  the  favorite  resort 
of  Helen  Hunt  Jackson,  and  we  were  pointed  to  the  lone 
peak  upon  which  her  remains  were  interred  at  her  request. 
They  have  since  been  removed  to  Colorado  City.  We  rode 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          23 

about  Colorado  Springs,  which  has  some  splendid  resi 
dences,  and  is  said  to  be  the  wealthiest  city  of  its  size  in  the 
United  States,  though  its  population  is  but  2,500.  Many 
mine  owners  live  here. 

Leaving  Manitou  on  the  afternoon  of  July  3,  the  New 
Jersey  Special  started  on  its  way  across  the  Rocky  Moun 
tains.  We  reached  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Arkansas  just 
before  sunset,  and  passed  through  this  magnificent  gorge, 
just  when  the  finest  shadow  effects  were  upon  the  cliffs.  It 
was  a  ride  which  gives  one  a  lasting  impression.  The  train 
moves  slowly  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  with  the  rocks 
overhanging  in  some  places.  At  times  one  end  of  the  train 
is  hidden  behind  the  cliffs  as  the  track  curves  sharply 
around  the  base  of  a  huge  rock.  The  great  rocky  walls 
are  shaped  into  all  sorts  of  domes  and  pinnacles  up  where 
they  seem  to  meet  the  sky.  Sometimes  they  slant  back 
ward  like  a  man  who  tries  to  walk  too  straight.  Then  they 
lean  forward  and  seem  about  to  topple  over  into  the  river 
below.  Again  they  stand  out  alone,  slender  and  graceful. 
The  river  tumbles  down  among  the  rocks  in  a  ruby  torrent, 
but  its  music  adds  to  the  sublimity  of  the  occasion.  The 
two  locomotives  pant  wearily  as  they  drag  the  long,  heavy 
train  around  the  sharp  curves.  The  coaches  creak  and 
groan,  and  the  echoes  of  the  rumbling  train  reverberate 
through  the  arches  of  the  canon.  The  crested  crags  grow 
higher  as  we  advance  into  the  heart  of  the  mountains,  and 
the  river  seems  to  foam  more  madly.  The  way  becomes 
a  mere  fissure  through  the  heights  over  which  the  sky 
forms  a  gray  arch  in  the  twilight.  The  place  is  a  measure 
less  gulf  of  air  with  solid  walls  on  either  side.  Here  the 
granite  cliffs  are  a  thousand  feet  high,  smooth  and  un 
broken  by  tree  or  shrub;  there  a  pinnacle  soars  skyward 
for  thrice  that  distance.  No  flowers  are  to  be  seen,  nor 


24          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

are  any  birds  visible.  Nothing  but  impenetrable  solitude. 
The  grandest  portion  of  the  canon  is  reached,  where  a  long^ 
iron  bridge  hangs  suspended  from  the  smooth  walls  of  the 
cliffs.  Truly  man  has  triumphed  over  nature  here.  When 
first  examined  it  seemed  impossible  that  a  railway  could 
be  constructed  through  this  canon.  There  was  scarcely 
room  for  the  river  alone,  and  granite  ledges  blocked  the 
path  with  their  mighty  bulk.  But  the  obstructions  were 
blasted  away,  and  a  road  bed  was  made  closely  following 
the  detour  of  the  cliffs.  The  river  is  not  over  twenty  feet 
wide  in  many  places,  so  that  one  can  well  imagine  how  pro 
found  is  this  gorge  through  the  mountains,  when  we  con 
sider  its  great  depth. 

Emerging  from  the  gorge,  the  narrow  valley  of  the  Ar 
kansas  was  traversed,  beautiful  indeed,  the  striking  ser 
rated  peaks  of  the  Sangre  de  Cristo  range  close  at  hand  on 
the  west,  until  Salida  was  reached,  where  the  New  Jersey 
party  spent  the  night  in  their  cars  awaiting  daylight  to  con 
tinue  their  journey  across  this  great  range  of  mountains. 

Salida  is  a  prosperous  mountain  town  of  3,500  popula 
tion.  It  has  an  altitude  of  seven  thousand  and  fifty  feet. 
It  is  the  junction  of  the  standard  gauge  main  line 
leading  via  Leadville,  Tennessee  Pass  and  Glenwood' 
Springs  to  Grand  Junction,  and  the  narrow  gauge  line,  via 
Marshall  Pass  to  another  connection  with  the  main  line  at 
Grand  Junction.  The  party  divided  at  this  place,  the 
larger  portion  taking  cars  on  the  narrow  gauge  to  cross 
the  world-famed  Marshall  Pass,  while  the  remainder  in  our 
own  coaches  went  around  the  other  way.  Both  routes  are 
unrivalled  for  their  magnificent  mountain  scenery  and  for 
engineering  skill  displayed  in  constructing  railroad  tracks- 
up  the  steep  mountain  sides.  The  Marshall  Pass  route  is- 
generally  considered  more  wonderful  of  the  two  by  travel- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          25 

ers.  Leaving  Salida  early  in  the  morning,  we  began  the 
steep  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  Pass,  which  is  10,852  feet 
above  the  sea  level.  The  track  winds  up  the  mountains 
in  great  loops,  each  one  a  little  higher  than  the  other,  until 
when  the  summit  is  reached,  one  can  look  down  upon  four 
lines  of  track,  terrace  beyond  terrace,  the  last  so  far  below 
as  to  be  indistinct  to  view.  At  times  the  train  slowly 
rounds  sharp  curves,  where  the  passenger  can  look  far 
down  into  valleys,  thousands  of  feet  below  making  him 
hold  his  breath  as  he  gazes  into  the  dizzy  depths,  and  he 
wonders  how  the  train  ever  gained  those  heights,  even  with 
two  locomotives  tugging  away  at  it. 

But,  oh,  the  surpassing  grandeur  of  the  scenery!  As  the 
train  progressed  up  the  steep  grade,  the  view  became  less 
obstructed  by  mountain  sides,  and  the  eye  roamed  over 
miles  of  cone-shaped  summits.  But  exceeding  all  else  in 
grandeur  were  the  snow-shrouded  peaks  of  the  Sangre  de 
Cristo  range.  Those  near  at  hand  are  clearly  defined,  and 
then  the  range  extends  to  the  southward  until  cloud  and 
sky  and  snowy  peak  commingle  and  form  a  vague  and  be 
wildering  vision.  The  most  beautiful  peak  of  all  as  seen 
from  the  high  altitude  on  Mount  Ouray,  was  Mount  An- 
tero  of  the  Sagnache  range,  which  was  nearer  by,  and  was 
so  enveloped  with  snow  far  down  its  slopes  that  it  seemed 
to  be  wrapped  in  a  great  sheet. 

Mount  Ouray  holds  the  pass,  and  towers  grand,  solitary 
and  forbidding  to  our  right.  And  now  while  we  are  in  rap 
tures  over  the  snow-capped  peaks  in  the  distance,  the  snow 
begins  to  fall  about  us.  First  it  came  lightly,  and  then 
developed  into  a  real  storm  as  we  continued  to  ascend.  The 
hemlock  and  fir  trees  caught  it  in  their  branches,  and  soon 
were  as  white  as  in  a  mid-winter  storm.  The  ground  was 
nearly  covered,  and  yet  the  beautiful  flowers  peeped 


26          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

through  and  added  color  to  the  scene.  The  whole  party 
was  so  charmed  by  the  novelty  and  beauty  of  the  storm, 
that  when  the  train  pulled  into  the  sheds  at  the  summit 
they  rushed  from  the  cars  pell-mell  and  began  snow  balling 
each  other  furiously.  The  snow  was  two  or  three  inches 
in  depth,  and  it  was  an  event  of  a  life  time  for  Jerseymen 
to  snow-ball  each  other  on  the  Fourth  of  July.  In  the 
midst  of  it  all,  some  one  began  singing  the  long  metre  dox- 
ology,  and  the  entire  party  joined  in  heartily.  It  was  an 
impressive  moment. 

The  descent  to  Gunnison  was  very  beautiful,  but  not  so 
thrilling  as  the  ascent.  The  view  through  the  deep  ravines 
was  magnificent.  We  took  dinner  at  Gunnison,  a  flourish 
ing  town,  7,680  feet  above  sea  level.  Here  we  tasted  the 
far-famed  trout  of  the  Gunnison.  Then  followed  a  ride 
through  the  famous  black  canon  of  the  Gunnison  river.  Here 
again  the  railroad  lies  for  many  miles  upon  a  shelf  hewn  from 
the  living  rock  which  frequently  rises  to  analdtude  of  over 
2,000  feet.  The  river  is  even  more  beautiful  than  the  Arkansas 
as  it  foams  madly  over  its  rocky  bottom.  The  great  cliffs 
almost  meet  overhead  at  times,  and  the  huge  rocks  are 
piled  up  into  fantastic  shapes.  For  sixteen  miles  the  route 
lies  through  this  magnificent  canon,  which  rivals  the  canon 
of  the  Arkansas  and  the  Royal  Gorge  in  grandeur. 

Emerging  from  the  canon  we  had  a  splendid  view  of  the 
Ouray  Mountains,  with  Mount  Sneffles  rising  more  than 
14,000  feet  towards  the  heavens.  They  were  completely 
enveloped  in  snow,  and  with  the  brilliant  touches  of  the 
afternoon  sun,  they  had  the  appearance  of  crystal  moun 
tains.  Some  who  had  seen  the  mountains  of  Switzerland, 
declared  that  these  came  nearer  to  them  in  beauty  than  any 
they  had  seen.  For  miles  this  range  was  in  view,  and  we 
left  it  behind  with  reluctance. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          27 

We  reached  Grand  Junction  in  the  early  evening,  but 
our  train,  which  came  over  the  Tennessee  Pass,  did  not 
arrive  until  eleven.  The  party  on  board  were  equally  enthu 
siastic  over  their  ride,  which  had  been  very  picturesque  and 
grand. 

Grand  Junction  is  about  the  only  place  in  Colorado  that 
the  Christian  Endeavorers  left  without  regret.  Especially 
was  this  true  of  those  who  had  spent  the  day  on  the  narrow 
gauge  road  without  the  comforts  of  their  own  easy  coaches, 
and  who  were  forced  to  roam  about  an  uninteresting  town 
where  good  food  was  at  a  premium,  awaiting  the  arrival 
of  their  train.  Many  trains  arrived  at  Grand  Junction  that 
evening,  and  those  were  fortunate  who  could  get  a  palat 
able  supper.  Just  on  the  verge  of  the  Egyptian  desert  we 
were  advised  to  get  provision  for  the  future,  and  there  was 
a  general  foraging  of  the  town.  A  woman  who  had  driven  in 
from  the  country  with  a  can  of  milk,  which  she  sold  in  huge 
black  bottles,  did  quite  a  thriving  business  by  the  wayside, 
but  the  sight  of  tender  maidens  wearing  the  C.  E.  badge 
trudging  along  with  those  black  bottles  was  rather 
amusing. 

The  Grand  Valley  comprises  several  counties,  and  is 
said  to  have  a  soil  of  remarkable  richness,  upon  which 
every  kind  of  agricultural  product  flourishes  luxuriantly. 
As  it  was  dark  when  we  started  out  from  Grand  Junction, 
we  saw  little  of  this  section,  and  when  we  awakened  the 
following  morning  we  were  in  the  midst  of  the  Egyptian 
desert,  which  is  a  part  of  the  Great  American  desert.  Noth 
ing  but  sage  brush  could  be  seen  in  the  way  of  vegetation, 
but  the  most  wonderful  formations  attracted  our  attention. 
On  the  north,  for  a  long  time,  were  the  richly  colored 
Book-cliffs.  To  the  south  could  be  seen  the  snow-clad 
summits  of  the  Sierra  la  Sal,  and  San  Rafel,  glistening  in 


28          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

the  distance.  All  along  the  way  the  foot  of  hills  and  cliffs 
had  the  most  fantastic  shapes  that  almost  rivalled  the  Gar 
den  of  the  gods.  Here  the  top  of  the  cliff  had  the  appear 
ance  of  a  huge  Egyptian  temple  with  its  low  roofs,  eaves 
adorned  with  fancy  stone  sculptured  from  the  rocks,  and 
windows  in  their  proper  places.  There  were  pinnacles 
and  obelisks  and  sphinxes  and  great  crumbling  ruins. 
They  were  colored  sufficiently  to  suit  the  most  vivid  imagi 
nation.  Some  times  they  were  red  and  some  times  grey. 
Some  times  the  walls  were  straight  and  well  preserved,  and 
at  other  times  they  were  falling  down.  The  cliffs  would 
have  a  half  dozen  different  colored  strata  in  some  places, 
and  looked  as  though  swift  water  had  cut  them  asunder, 
and  washed  up  against  them,  first  one  way  and  then 
another. 

When  Sunday  morning  dawned,  we  had  been  due  in  Salt 
Lake  City  since  mid-night  of  Saturday.  The  managers 
were  cross  at  being  obliged  to  travel  on  the  Sabbath,  and 
some  of  the  party  were  indignant,  but  we  were  in  the 
hands  of  the  railroads,  and  patience  seemed  the  most  im 
portant  virtue.  We  passed  through  a  few  small  settle 
ments  where  the  inhabitants  lived  in  miserable  huts,  but 
not  until  we  reached  Helper,  where  the  ascent  of  the 
Wasatch  Mountains  began,  did  we  have  another  opportu 
nity  to  forage  for  provisions.  While  the  train  was  supplied 
with  ice  and  water,  those  who  were  fortunate  enough  to 
own  a  tin  pail  or  a  bottle,  hurried  to  the  little  wooden 
stores,  just  back  of  the  station,  forgetful  in  their  hunger,  it 
was  the  Sabbath  day.  All  the  milk  and  bread  and  sand 
wiches  were  soon  cleaned  up  in  that  town,  and  the  rest  of 
the  time  was  occupied  in  talking  to  the  natives,  most  of 
whom  work  for  the  railroad  company.  A  service  of  song 
was  held  at  the  station,  which  attracted  many  of  them. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          29 

Helper  and  Castle  Gate,  which  is  only  a  mile  distant,  are 
surrounded  by  high  cliffs  of  startling  beauty,  similar  to 
those  already  described,  only  higher  and  grander.  Most 
of  the  natives  are  Mormons,  and  there  were  a  number  of 
snap  shots  taken  of  the  little  Mormon  children,  who  looked 
curiously  at  our  trains.  At  Castle  Gate  were  large  coke 
ovens  and  mining  operations  are  in  progress  in  the  moun 
tains.  At  the  entrance  to  Castle  Canon  stand  two  tower 
ing  sand  stone  shafts,  which  rise  to  a  height  of  500  feet, 
looking  like  two  monstrous  castles,  with  battlements, 
bastions  and  turrets  guarding  the  way,  and  just  wide 
enough  apart  to  allow  the  train  to  pass  between.  The 
canon  which  follows  is  another  of  sublime  beauty.  Castle 
Gate  is  so  called  because  of  two  huge  pillars  or  ledges  of 
rock,  which  tower  to  a  great  height,  with  the  river  dashing 
down  between.  The  railroad  has  forced  a  passage  by  its 
side  between  these  two  sharp  promontories. 

Following  up  this  grand  gorge,  the  train  makes  its  way 
into  the  heart  of  the  Wasatch  Mountains,  reaching  Sol 
dier  Summit  at  an  elevation  of  7,465  feet.  Passing 
through  the  Red  Narrows  and  Spanish  Fork  Canon,  we 
entered  the  beautiful  Utah  Valley,  and  realized  the  joy  of 
the  Mormons,  when,  weary  with  long  travel  in  their  lum 
bering  wagons  over  the  desert,  they  saw  this  picturesque 
valley  before  them  with  Utah  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
clear,  fresh  water  in  the  midst. 

All  the  way  from  this  point  to  Salt  Lake  City  the  scen 
ery  was  charming.  The  Wasatch  Mountains,  perfectly 
void  of  foliage,  have  a  strange  appearance  after  the  Rock 
ies.  From  a  distance  they  look  like  huge  elephants  with 
blue  skins.  The  valley  is  like  a  well-kept  garden,  and  is  a 
delightful  relief  from  the  barren  "desert.  Farm  joins  farm, 
and  all  are  so  well  irrigated  that  the  crops  look  luxuriant, 


30          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

and  fruit  trees  are  in  rich  profusion.  Neat  homes  are  on 
every  side,  and  the  whole  country  looks  thrifty. 

The  shadows  of  evening  were  getting  long  when  the 
train  drew  into  Salt  Lake  City,  where  we  were  to  remain 
until  the  next  day.  That  evening  a  large  mass 
meeting  was  held  in  the  big  Mormon  Tabernacle, 
and  most  of  the  New  Jersey  Endeavorers  were  present. 
The  Tabernacle  was  thrown  open  for  the  occasion,  and 
some  of  the  Mormon  elders  spoke,  as  well  as  Christian 
Endeavorers.  This  great  building,  which  seats  about  10,- 
ooo  people,  and  is  only  surpassed  for  seating  capacity  by 
the  Ocean  Grove  Auditorium  in  this  country,  was  deco 
rated  with  the  national  colors,  and  a  large  C.  E.  badge  had 
been  placed  on  the  big  organ,  the  largest  organ  in  this 
country,  and  only  surpassed  by  one  other  in  the  world. 
The  exercises  were  exceedingly  interesting,  and  the  wor 
shipers  felt  a  strange  thrill  to  have  participated  in  a  service 
in  a  temple,  which  was  formerly  not  a  welcome  place  to 
gentiles. 

Salt  Lake  City  is  really  an  attractive  place  to  an  Eastern 
visitor,  more  because  of  its  associations  than  its  beauty  as 
a  city.  To  compare  it  with  cities  of  same  population  in  the 
East,  would  place  it  in  a  high  rank.  Yet  it  has  beautiful 
wide  avenues,  splendid  shade  trees,  some  magnificent 
buildings,  and  first  class  street  railway  service.  Great  Salt 
Lake  is  a  beautiful  body  of  water,  of  which  any  city  might 
well  be  proud,  and  many  were  the  New  Jersey  men  and 
maidens  who  enjoyed  a  dip  in  its  saline  waters,  and  the 
fresh  water  shower  bath  which  follows.  Saltaire  is  the 
great  resort  for  the  city,  and  a  handsome  pavilion  is  erected 
there  for  bathers.  The  handsome  State  Capitol  is  also  well 
worth  a  visit,  from  the  top  of  which  there  is  a  splendid  view 
of  the  surrounding  country. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          31 

But  the  places  with  which  Mormonism  is  associated,  are 
the  centre  of  attraction  here.  The  Tabernacle  and  Temple 
are  beautifully  located  in  one  large  square,  surrounded  by 
a  high  stone  wall.  The  Tabernacle  is  not  an  attractive 
building  from  the  exterior,  but  is  low,  with  a  rounding 
roof.  The  lower  portion  is  built  of  homely  brick.  Its 
seating  capacity  and  its  large  organ  are  the  only  redeem 
ing  features.  Here  is  where  the  Mormons  have  their  great 
gatherings.  But  the  Temple  is  a  magnificent  structure 
which  cost  about  $4,000,000.  No  gentile  can  enter  this 
and  Mormons  only  have  admission  as  they  desire  to  be  bap 
tized  or  married.  The  interior  appointments  are  said  to 
be  very  handsome.  The  work  on  the  Temple  was  largely 
done  by  the  Mormon  mechanics,  who  gave  a  certain  por 
tion  of  their  time,  rather  than  cash  subscriptions.  The 
gold  figure  of  the  patron  angel  of  the  Mormons,  adorns  the 
topmost  pinnacle,  blowing  a  trumpet. 

It  was  with  interest  that  we  visited  the  Tithing  house, 
where  all  the  church  moneys  are  sent,  and  from  which  they 
are  distributed  for  various  benevolent  purposes;  the  "Bee 
Hive,"  where  Brigham  Young  resided  for  a  long  time  with 
his  numerous  wives;  the  present  home  of  his  surviving 
favorite  wife,  and  finally  the  quiet  little  plot  where  are 
buried  many  of  his  wives. 

Salt  Lake  City  filled  the  whole  party  with  curiosity  to 
see  her  peculiar  institutions.  All  came  away  convinced  that 
Mormonism  is  not  on  the  decline,  while  its  offensive  fea 
tures  may  not  be  so  prominent  as  before. 

The  ride  from  Salt  Lake  City  to  the  foot  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada  Mountains,  is  across  the  Alkali  plains,  which  com 
pose  the  most  arid  portion  of  the  Great  American  desert. 
It  is  a  day's  ride  over  this  barren  waste,  where  there  is  no 
3 


32          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

vegetation  but  the  sage  brush,  which  seems  to  maintain  a 
sort  of  existence  despite  the  lack  of  moisture.  Sometimes 
this  trip  is  fraught  with  very  much  discomfort,  owing  to 
the  dust  which  blows  over  the  trains  in  such  clouds  that  all 
the  windows  of  the  cars  have  to  be  kept  tightly  closed  in 
order  to  have  any  degree  of  comfort.  Fortunately  for  the 
New  Jersey  party  the  weather  was  auspicious,  the  atmos 
phere  was  cool  and  there  was  little  dust.  Had  it  been 
otherwise,  the  Jerseymen,  accustomed  though  they  are  to 
sand  dunes,  would  have  been  a  woe-begone  lot  when  they 
reached  California.  For  owing  to  the  delays  incident 
upon  a  large  number  of  special  trains,  it  took  two  days  and 
a  night  to  span  the  desert.  The  trip  was  not  without  inter 
est,  however.  There  were  little  hamlets  at  long  intervals, 
where  inhabitants  lived  in  dugouts,  or  in  mere  shanties. 
How  they  could  be  content  in  such  a  monotonous  dreari 
ness,  was  a  mystery  which  the  Endeavorers  could  not 
solve.  Some  of  them  were  in  the  employ  of  the  railroad 
company,  and  others  had  ranches  on  the  neighboring  hills, 
where  they  had  large  herds  of  cattle  grazing.  From  the 
train  these  hillsides  seemed  as  barren  as  the  plains,  but 
the  natives  said  there  were  excellent  pasture  lands  in  some 
of  the  ravines.  At  one  place  a  Boston  woman  was  found 
as  mistress  of  an  humble  abode,  and  she  was  delighted  to 
talk  with  people  from  the  East,  which  she  had  left  many 
years  ago. 

At  Terrace,  an  humble  hamlet  with  nothing  but  sand 
dunes,  and  the  distant  mountains  surrounding  it,  there  was 
a  stop  for  such  food  as  could  be  obtained  at  the  close  of  the 
first  day  out.  Most  of  the  party  had  provided  for  this  des 
ert  trip,  and  ate  their  meals  in  the  cars  with  the  best  grace 
possible.  Some  had  provided  themselves  with  oil  or  alco 
hol  stoves,  and  had  a  regular  culinary  establishment  in 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          33 

their  sections.  But  others  were  glad  to  get  a  cup  of  coffee, 
or  some  daintily  cooked  food,  when  the  opportunity  came. 

Two  ministers  occupied  a  stateroom  in  the  Superb.  They 
had  a  cooking  outfit,  and  were  quite  a  success  in  operating 
it.  But  at  Terrace  they  entered  an  old  colored  woman's 
hut  and  asked  for  something  to  eat.  Old  aunty  was  so 
confused  at  the  crowd  of  strangers  that  she  was  unable  to 
perform  her  duties,  and  made  slow  progress  for  the  hungry 
dominies.  So  one  of  them  seized  the  skillet  from  her 
hands  and  the  other  took  the  eggs  and  broke  them  into  the 
pan,  and  between  them  they  prepared  a  palatable  meal  for 
which  they  paid  liberally.  About  the  same  hour  that  they 
were  doing  this  humble  work,  one  of  the  ministers  was  on 
the  program  of  the  great  convention  to  make  an  address, 
but  there  they  were  stalled  in  the  great  desert. 

There  were  many  amusing  incidents  of  that  ride  across 
the  plains.  There  were  frequent  stops,  and  the  weary  trav 
ellers  would  get  off  and  wander  about.  They  entered  the 
cabins  of  the  natives,  when  they  could,  plied  them  with 
all  sorts  of  questions,  and  must  have  convinced  those  deni 
zens  of  the  desert  that  curiosity  was  not  the  exclusive  fac 
ulty  of  woman.  Religious  meetings  were  held  in  the  cars 
every  day,  and  frequently  there  would  be  a  song  service  on 
the  station  platform,  while  the  natives  gathered  around.  At 
Wadsworth  there  was  an  old  woman  who  listened  to  the 
singing  with  tears  in  her  eyes.  She  said  she  had  walked 
a  long  distance  to  hear  these  gospel  hymns,  which  she  had 
not  listened  to  for  30  years. 

It  was  at  Wadsworth,  too,  that  a  pleasant  incident  hap 
pened.  Rev.  T.  E.  Davis,  the  transportation  manager,  was 
called  to  the  station  platform  while  the  train  waited,  and 
was  presented  with  a  purse  of  $115  by  Rev.  Dr.  Chapman. 
This  had  been  contributed  by  the  Endeavorers  as  a  token 


34          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

of  their  regard  for  his  work.  Mr.  Simmons,  the  Pullman  con 
ductor,  was  also  presented  with  a  purse  of  $36. 

At  Reno,  we  stopped  for  supper  the  second  day,  Wed 
nesday.  It  was  a  rough  and  tumble  Western  town,  but  it 
had  so  many  characteristics  of  a  live  civilization  that  every 
body  rejoiced.  The  desert  was  crossed,  and  before  dark 
we  entered  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Sierra  Nevada 
Mountains.  Then  followed  the  40  miles  of  snow  sheds, 
and  when  we  emerged  it  was  too  dark  to  see  more. 
When  we  awoke  the  following  morning,  we  were  almost 
to  Oakland,  which  bears  the  same  relation  to  San  Fran 
cisco  that  Jersey  City  does  to  New  York.  We  had  passed 
through  Sacramento  during  the  night,  and  those  who  were 
awake'  saw  a  magnificent  station  brilliantly  lighted  with 
electric  globes,  which  spelled  the  word  "Welcome."  The 
C.  E.  Committee  had  been  waiting  for  many  hours  to 
receive  the  New  Jersey  party,  but  found  few  of  them  awake. 
The  train  crossed  the  Sacramento  river,  on  what  is  reputed 
to  be  tbe  largest  ferry  boat  in  the  world.  The  train  was 
divided  into  two  sections,  but  the  whole  train  was  on  the 
boat  at  one  time. 

California,  the  end  of  the  long  journey  across  the  con 
tinent,  the  Mecca  of  the  C.  E.  hosts,  is  a  wonderful  State. 
We  saw  it  at  a  disadvantage,  doubtless,  as  it  was  the  dry 
season.  The  foliage  looked  thirsty  and  weary  of  life,  and 
while  the  flowers  and  the  fields  and  the  orchards  were 
objects  of  wonder  to  us  Jersey  men,  yet  they  were  some 
what  disappointing,  for  the  reason  just  mentioned. 

We  caught  the  first  side  glimpse  of  the  Golden  Gate  as 
we  crossed  the  bay,  a  three  mile  ride  from  Oakland,  but  its 
glories  were  to  be  better  appreciated  later.  The  bay  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  when  the  sun  is  shining  upon  its 
bosom. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          35 

Everyone  gazed  upon  San  Francisco  with  curious  eyes. 
Much  was  expected  of  this  great  city,  which  has  had  such 
a  romantic  history.  One  could  not  help  but  look  upon  its 
beautiful  buildings  and  recall  the  fact  that  but  few  years 
had  passed  since  the  same  ground  was  only  covered  by 
tents  which  protected  the  gold  hunters  who  crowded 
thither  from  all  parts  of  the  world  to  seek  their  fortunes. 

San  Francisco  is  a  city  of  hills.  The  grades  up  which 
the  cable  cars  climb,  almost  make  your  hair  stand  when 
you  look  below.  Yet  the  whole  city  is  interwoven  with  the 
finest  system  of  cable  roads  that  we  came  across.  One  can 
ride  to  the  extreme  end  of  the  city  and  get  several  transfers 
to  different  sections  for  a  single  fare.  Up  and  down  these 
streets  they  go,  never  changing  their  speed,  at  an  angle 
which  prohibits  the  use  of  other  vehicles  in  many  places. 
The  Golden  Gate  Park,  the  Cliff  House  and  Sutro  Heights, 
Chinatown  and  the  Presidio,  the  government  reservation, 
were  the  most  prominent  places  of  resort,  and  they  would 
be  a  credit  to  any  city.  Golden  Gate  Park  is  beautifully 
located  with  Strawberry  Hill  in  the  centre,  rising  far  above 
the  rest,  and  from  the  top  of  which  there  is  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  Pacific  and  the  Golden  Gate.  The  Cliff  House 
is  built  on  the  rocks  which  jut  out  into  the  ocean  about 
fifty  feet  from  the  surface.  A  hundred  feet  away  are  the 
seal  rocks,  upon  which  the  sea  lions  bask  in  the  sun  every 
day.  From  the  hotel  far  around  to  the  north,  stretches 
the  rocky  coast,  the  only  break  being  the  entrance  to  the 
Golden  Gate.  It  is  a  picturesque  spot.  Most  of  the  party 
walked  down  to  the  sands  below  the  hotel,  where  the  beach 
looks  more  like  our  own  New  Jersey,  and  dipped  their 
hands  of  the  western  ocean.  Many  of  them  enjoyed  the 
Sutro  baths,  which  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  world.  The 


36          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

Sutro  Gardens  are  filled  with  tropical  vegetation  of  the 
most  luxuriant  kind. 

Mechanic's  Pavilion  was  where  the  convention  was  held. 
A  portion  of  the  building  was  devoted  to  bureaus  of  infor 
mation  for  each  of  the  States.  Any  information  desired 
could  tie  obtained  here  about  the  meetings,  or  about  the 
city,  or*  any  of  the  side  excursions.  Yet  there  was  seating 
capacity  in  the  audience  room  for  nearly  10,000  persons.  It 
was  a  wonderful  sight  to  witness  these  great  audiences  of 
enthusiastic  people,  and  this  was  especially  true  when  they 
gave  the  handkerchief  salute.  It  was  estimated  that  40,- 
ooo  Christian  Endeavorers  were  gathered  in  the  city,  and 
of  course  they  made  a  big  crowd  when  they  came  together. 
There  were  other  halls  where  overflow  meetings  were  held, 
and  all  of  the  churches  were  open.  Everything  was  given 
up  to  C.  E.  The  stores  were  decorated  with  the  colors,  the 
streets  were  bright  with  streamers  and  flags  with  C.  E. 
emblems,  and  at  night  a  huge  arch  of  electric  lights  over 
Market  street,  reminded  the  thousands  who  must  pass  be 
neath  that  the  Christian  Endeavorers  were  in  town.  Yet 
the  halls  were  all  so  well  managed  that  those  who  were  for 
tunate  enough  to  get  inside  were  not  in  the  least  incon 
venienced  by  the  crowds,  only  enough  were  let  in  to  com 
fortably  occupy  the  seats. 

The  return  trip  was  far  more  delightful  to  most  of  the 
tourists,  than  the  one  going. 

That  portion  of  California  immediately  north  of  San 
Francisco,  we  passed  through  in  the  night  on  our  return 
trip,  and  when  we  awoke  the  morning  after  our  start,  we 
were  in  the  midst  of  the  beautiful  Sacramento  Valley.  All 
day  long  we  followed  the  curves  of  the  Sacramento  river 
and  watched  the  restful,  delightful  views  of  nature's  beauty, 
which  constantly  changed  as  the  train  curved  in  and  out 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          37 

through  the  mountains.  Two  big  wood-burning  locomo 
tives  pulled  us  along  with  much  puffing  and  groaning, 
and  frequent  stops  to  renew  the  wood  from  piles  along  the 
track.  We  passed  the  huts  which  the  gold  miners  of  '49 
had  abandoned,  and  looked  with  some  curiosity  at  the 
remains  of  the  placer  apparatus,  which  they  had  used.  There 
was  little  sign  of  life  in  those  regions,  which  had  made  so 
many  rich.  The  Sacramento  river  is  a  limpid  stream,  which 
looks  as  though  it  might  be  a  furious  torrent  at  times,  but 
no  one  would  suspect  its  hidden  wealth. 

Such  trestles  and  curves  as  we  passed  over  in  climbing 
these  mountains,  we  had  never  witnessed.  Sometimes 
we  would  slowly  crawl  over  a  rickety  looking  wooden 
trestle,  which  seemed  to  span  a  ravine  150  feet  deep.  And 
the  strange  part  of  it  was  that  the  curve  of  the  road  most 
often  occurred  right  where  these  bridges  were.  The  long 
trains  made  them  creak  until  we  trembled  lest  we  should 
bit  cast  into  the  depths  below. 

Occasional  glimpses  we  had  of  that  most  beautiful  of 
American  mountains,  Shasta,  but  we  did  not  arrive  at  the 
nearest  point  to  its  base  until  about  noon.  At  Sisson  we 
stopped  for  lunch,  and  there  stood  that  symmetrical  peak, 
clad  in  pure  white,  just  in  the  background.  We  had  seen 
loftier  peaks,  but  none  from  such  a  low  altitude.  Over 
14,000  feet  she  arose,  and  we  were  not  over  3,000.  Twenty- 
five  miles  away  she  stood,  but  the  distance  seemed  but  a 
stone's  throw.  Two  peaks  are  visible,  lifting  their  heads 
up  proudly  with  not  a  wrinkle  on  their  brows.  A  splendid 
specimen  of  mountain  beauty.  Seven  extinct  volcanoes 
could  be  seen  from  this  point. 

The  ride  through  Oregon  was  enjoyed  by  everyone.  The 
farming  land  was  as  fine  as  any  seen  on  the  trip,  the  farms 
were  well  kept,  and  there  was  an  appearance  of  thrift  on 


38          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97 

every  hand.  At  Albany  the  farmers  showed  an  enterpris 
ing"  spirit  by  bringing  their  fruits  and  other  produce  to  the 
railroad  station,  where  they  placed  it  for  the  inspection  of 
the  Eastern  travellers.  It  was  a  splendid  show  of  agricul 
tural  products.  In  fact  the  whole  party  were  quite  enam 
ored  with  Oregon,  because  of  its  apparent  thrift,  fertility, 
beauty  of  scenery  and  mild,  equable  climate. 

Portland,  with  the  splendid  sail  on  the  Columbia  river; 
Tacoma  and  Seattle  were  all  thoroughly  enjoyed  by  the 
tourists.  Unfortunately  the  time  was  cut  so  short  at  Port 
land  that  those  who  took  the  ride  on  the  river,  saw  little  of 
the  city.  The  Christian  Endeavorers  of  the  city  gave  us  a 
splendid  welcome,  and  presented  souvenirs  to  each  of  the 
tourists.'  But  so  anxious  were  most  of  the  party  to  see  the 
majestic  Columbia,  that  they  showed  small  appreciation  of 
this  thoughtfulness. 

Portland  is  probably  the  most  attractive  city  of  the  West. 
At  least  it  appeals  more  forcibly  to  the  Eastern  traveller. 
It  has  magnificent  residences,  built  more  in  the  style  of  the 
East,  and  its  location,  especially  the  "Heights,"  is  most 
charming.  After  reaching  the  summit  on  the  cable  cars, 
the  view  is  magnificent.  For  miles  the  Williamette  and 
Columbia  can  be  seen,  and  four  snow  capped  peaks  are 
outlined  against  the  sky  in  different  directions.  Hood, 
Rainier,  Adams  and  St.  Helens  are  all  in  full  view,  and 
there  is  no  prettier  quartet  of  peaks  in  the  world. 

The  sail  down  the  Williamette  and  up  the  Columbia  was 
one  which  leaves  such  a  restful,  lasting  impression.  The 
Columbia  seems  more  like  the  St.  Lawrence  than  any  other 
eastern  river.  It  is  four  miles  wide  where  Williamette 
enters  it,  and  for  many  miles  it  flows  between  low  banks 
fringed  with  small  trees.  But  as  we  ascend  it  narrows,  and 
the  scenery  along  the  banks  is  entrancing.  We  naturally 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          39 

compared  it  with  our  own  lordly  Hudson,  and  we  were 
loath  to  give  over  the  honors  of  the  latter  until  we  reached 
that  magnificent  part  which  corresponds  to  the  palisades  of 
the  Hudson,  and  then  we  yielded.  So  picturesque  were 
those  cliffs  rising  up  several  hundred  feet  above  the  river, 
and  surmounted  by  pinnacles  and  minarets,  which  add  to 
their  beauty.  Castle  Rock  and  Cape  Horn  were  not  only 
huge  walls  of  rock,  but  were  beautifully  formed  by  the 
Divine  architect.  We  came  to  the  conclusion  that  this  sur 
passed  the  Hudson,  as  the  Hudson  surpasses  the  Rhine. 
Time  required  that  we  should  turn  back  ere  we  reached  the 
still  more  picturesque  cascades,  and  it  was  with  sighs  of 
regret  that  the  bow  of  the  steamer  was  turned  down  stream. 
All  the  way  up  the  river  we  had  grand  old  Mt.  Hood  right 
directly  in  front  of  us,  sixty  miles  away  when  we  first  saw 
her,  but  seeming  not  more  than  five.  Nothing  could  be 
more  symmetrical  than  her  perfectly  white  sides  sloping 
down  to  river  level  from  a  height  of  12,000  feet.  But  when 
the  full  moon  rose  over  her  snowy  brow  later  in  the  even 
ing,  it  was  the  most  glorious  vision  one  could  imagine.  It 
was  nearly  mid-night  when  we  reached  Portland,  but  the 
ride  down  the  river  by  moon-light  had  been  ideal,  and  a 
most  delightful  relief  from  dust  and  noise  of  the  train. 

The  following  morning  we  took  breakfast  at  Tacoma, 
and  spent  a  short  time  riding  about  the  streets.  Aside 
from  Portland,  we  saw  more  of  the  art  of  the  architect  here 
than  in  any  of  the  cities  west  of  Minneapolis.  There  were 
beautiful  residences  scattered  about  on  the  hillside,  which 
sloped  down  to  Puget  Sound.  Many  eastern  people  have 
homes  in  the  town,  we  were  told.  It  is  a  busy  little  place 
with  large  shipping  interests. 

While  the  train  proceeded  to  Seattle,  a  two  hours'  ride, 
a  small  party  of  us  made  the  distance  by  boat  through  the 


40          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

sound.  It  was  a  most  delightful  ride,  and  we  learned  to 
our  surprise,  from  the  captain,  that  the  sound  is  never 
closed  by  ice  in  winter,  and  that  there  is  very  little  snow  on 
the  ground  in  winter  in  Washington.  The  climate  is  mod 
erated  by  the  warm  ocean  currents. 

Seattle  is  a  typical  western  town.  It  lies  on  a  hillside, 
and  from  the  sound  many  streets  could  be  seen,  all  over 
grown  with  grass.  The  business  part  contains  some  very 
fine  buildings.  The  Court  House  and  school  houses  sur 
pass  those  of  equal  towns  in  the  east.  But  the  residence 
portion  is  spread  over  a  large  acreage,  with  streets  poorly 
kept,  fences  not  in  repair,  no  sidewalks,  and  with  houses  so 
irregular  in  size  and  style  as  to  make  one  think  that  each  one 
was  built  without  any  regard  to  the  other.  It  has  a  most 
magnificent  body  of  water  in  Lake  Washington,  which 
borders  one  side  of  the  city.  The  parks  on  the  lake  side 
are  very  pretty.  Seattle  is  a  very  busy  place,  many  of  the 
steamship  lines  from  the  Orient  having  their  terminals 
here. 

The  scenery  all  through  Washington  and  Idaho  could 
not  be  surpassed  for  its  beauties,  and  the  Northern  Pacific 
Railroad  gave  a  service  so  far  surpassing  other  roads  which 
we  passed  over  in  the  far  West,  that  it  was  appreciated. 
With  big  locomotives  we  rushed  through  the  mountains 
with  a  feeling  of  safety.  Ravines,  mountain  peaks,  mag 
nificent  groves,  limpid  streams,  were  the  treat  of  this  part 
of  the  journey. 

We  ate  a  most  palatable  breakfast  at  Spokane,  on  Satur 
day  morning.  The  chief  point  of  interest  in  this  town  are 
the  falls  in  the  Spokane  river.  The  water  converges  from 
five  different  channels  and  leaps  gracefully  over  the  rocks 
to  the  bed  below,  a  very  pretty  water  scene. 

At  Missoula,  in  the  heart  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  we 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          41 

were  welcomed  with  true  western  hospitality.  The  brass 
band  was  playing  as  we  drew  into  the  station,  and  carriages 
and  omnibuses  and  horse  cars  drawn  by  mules  were  await 
ing  to  convey  us  about  the  town.  Everything  was  free  to 
Christian  Endeavorers  in  this  mountain  town.  All  work 
was  laid  aside  and  business  was  suspended  in  anticipation 
of  the  event.  Even  the  bakers  forgot  to  brew,  as  we  could 
get  no  cake  Saturday  night  that  had  been  baked  later  than 
Tuesday.  At  the  station  a  meeting  was  held,  and  several 
addresses  made  by  Jerseymen  and  mountaineers. 

Sunday  was  spent  at  Helena,  with  little  satisfaction  to 
any  one,  except  that  there  were  good  services  at  the 
churches.  It  is  a  rough  and  tumble  town,  said  to  be  the 
wealthiest  in  the  country.  We  rode  on  streets  that  were 
literally  paved  with  gold  (the  refuse  of  the  gold  mines)  but 
we  were  glad  when  the  time  came  to  leave. 

The  next  objective  point  was  Livingston,  Cinnabar  and 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  in  Yellowstone  Park.  What  a 
grand  day  we  had.  Leaving  Livingston  at  early  morning, 
we  reached  Cinnabar  before  noon,  and  there  took  carriages 
for  the  Springs.  It  was  a  sight  never  before  seen,  so  they 
told  us,  a  string  of  30  carriages,  most  with  four  horse  teams 
and  some  with  six.  It  was  a  glorious  ride  along  that  quiet, 
pensive,  but  beautiful  Yellowstone.  The  mountains  rose 
high  on  either  side,  and  often  the  roadway  was  on  the 
rocks  jutting  out  from  the  side  of  the  mountains  with 
scarcely  room  for  another  vehicle  to  pass. 

We  dismounted  at  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel, 
and  spent  an  interesting  afternoon  in  roaming  about 
among  the  hot  springs,  which  have  bubbled  over  the  cliffs 
so  long  that  the  latter  are  converted  into  huge  banks  of 
crystal  that  have  the  appearance  in  the  sunlight  of  big 
banks  of  snow  piled  on  each  other,  and  then  dyed  with 


42          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

streaks  of  rich  brown  and  yellow  and  red.  These  forma 
tions  from  the  springs  are  most  wonderful.  And  the  springs 
themselves  as  they  bubble  forth  so  hot  from  the  rocks  be 
low  that  some  of  the  party  boiled  eggs  for  their  lunch  in 
one  of  them,  are  a  curious  study.  They  make  one  feel 
strangely  near  the  infernal  regions.  The  strong  smell  of 
sulphur  adds  to  this  feeling.  These  springs  are  bubbling 
out  everywhere,  and  the  formations  from  the  deposits  of 
the  water  are  extremely  beautiful.  We  left  the  springs 
with  regret  in  the  early  evening,  and  after  a  delightful  ride 
back  to  our  train,  we  were  soon  homeward  bound,  and  the 
following  morning  had  left  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  all 
their  grandeur  far  behind  us. 

Through  the  bad  lands  of  Dakota,  with  all  their  curious 
formations,  through  the  magnificent  wheat  fields  of  the 
same  state  into  Minnesota,  with  her  wealth  of  fertility  and 
waterways.  It  was  a  ride  not  of  grand  mountain  scenery, 
but  of  interest  to  everyone.  Nothing  can  surpass  that 
stretch  of  2,000  miles  spanned  by  the  Northern  Pacific,  be 
tween  Portland  and  St.  Paul.  We  stopped  at  Minneapolis 
long  enough  to  get  a  view  of  Minnehaha  Falls,  and  a  few 
of  its  splendid  buildings,  and  then  devoted  the  remainder 
of  the  time  to  St.  Paul.  Both  of  these  cities  had  a  tinge  of 
eastern  development  entirely  foreign  to  all  the  cities  of  the 
West. 

Over  the  Northwestern  route  from  St.  Paul  to  Chicago 
is  a  beautiful  ride  which  we  did  almost  entirely  in  the  night 
and  reached  Chicago  early  the  following  morning.  Only 
a  short  stay  there,  and  we  were  off  on  the  homeward 
stretch,  passing  through  some  of  the  more  fertile  portions 
of  Ohio  and  Indiana,  which  differed  so  much  from  the  sec 
tion  crossed  in  going  west  that  they  seemed  like  other 
states.  Not  until  we  reached  Cumberland,  Va.,  did  we 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          43 

retrace  our  westward  tracks.  But  the  ride  over  the  Appal- 
lachian  chain  by  daylight  on  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio,  was 
enjoyed  by  everyone,  for  the  scenery  is  charming. 

We  arrived  at  Philadelphia  early  in  the  evening  and 
there  the  South  Jersey  people  left  the  train  amid  many 
adieus.  At  Trenton  Junction  another  party  left  the  train 
and  a  large  number  alighted  at  Bound  Brook.  All  were 
glad  to  reach  home,  yet  felt  regrets  at  parting  from  their 
companions  on  such  a  wonderful  journey. 


To  describe  the  scenery  of  the  trip  is  a  most  difficult 
task.  The  appreciation  of  the  beauty,  grandeur,  or  sub 
limity  of  nature  is  a  matter  of  temperament.  Knowing 
that  what  impressed  me  may  have  been  unnoticed  by  oth 
ers,  I  will  make  no  attempt  beyond  a  very  general  descrip 
tion,  leaving  the  details  to  be  filled  in  by  each  individual. 
Even  a  pen  of  a  ready  writer  could  not  tell  the  story  ade 
quately,  and  besides,  it  would  take  more  space  than  a 
book  of  this  kind  could  accommodate.  We  are  more  or 
less  familiar  with  the  scenery  east  of  the  Alleghanies  and 
hence  attention  is  first  directed  to  the  rich  farm  lands  of 
Ohio,  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri  and  Kansas.  We  know 
now  why  the  price  of  corn  is  low,  and  what  it  is  that  makes 
the  western  farmer  rejoice  when  wheat  takes  a  rise.  There 
were  acres  of  sage  brush  (which,  by  the  way,  has  no  botan 
ical  connection  with  grandmother's  sage  tea,  or  the  sage 
flavored  gravy  which  the  Northern  Pacific  dining  car 
served,)  in  Colorado  and  Utah  and  Nevada,  less  of  it  would 
have  been  just  as  interesting,  but  the  oases  that  were 
formed  by  water  from  irrigating  ditches,  made  it  plain  to 
us  that  these  dry  heaps  of  sand  can  be  transformed  into  fer 
tile  gardens.  Everywhere  there  were  evidences  that  under 
neath  the  hills  were  millions  of  dollars  worth  of  precious 
metals. 

California  was  wonderland  indeed.   A  place  of  perpetual 


46          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

winter  and  a  place  of  perpetual  summer.  We  saw  it  and  it 
was  a  garden;  again  we  saw  it  and  it  was  a  desert.  It  was 
like  a  wheat  field,  an  orchard,  a  vineyard,  a  pasture  field.  It 
is  a  land  of  natural  contradictions,  and  the  resources  of  this 
wonderful  state  will  ever  be  praised  by  those  to  whom  she 
gave  such  a  hearty  welcome.  While  we  praise  California, 
we  must  not  forget  Oregon  and  Washington.  Such  for 
ests,  farms,  mountains,  rivers,  cities!  Idaho, too,  must  have 
a  share  when  praise  is  being  distributed,  for  did  she  not 
squeeze  her  slender  form  between  Washington  and  Mon 
tana,  so  that  we  might  say  we  had  been  within  her  boun 
daries?  The  ranches  of  Montana  confirmed  in  us  a  pur 
pose  of  buying  Montana  horses,  but  Missoula's  welcome 
seemed  more  real  that  Helena's  wealth.  Dakota  took  the 
eye  of  the  tillers  of  the  soil.  Acres  upon  acres  of  rich, 
flat,  farm  land,  and  never  a  stone  to  interrupt  the  passage 
of  the  plow.  Minnesota  and  Wisconsin  showed  us  black 
ened  stumps  in  great  multitudes.  They  were  monuments 
to  the  memory  of  millions  of  forest  monarchs,  who  have 
given  their  lives  to  the  lumber  dealers  in  distant  cities. 
This  catalogue  would  not  be  complete  with  Minneapolis 
and  St.  Paul  unmentioned.  A  resident  of  the  latter  place 
informed  me,  as  his  bosom  swelled  with  manly  pride,  that 
"there  are  no  horse  cars  in  St.  Paul,  only  electric  cars."  I 
heard  no  such  advantages  in  Minneapolis.  We  saw  Chi 
cago  too, — what  magnificent  scenery  there  is  in  the  North 
western  and  Baltimore  and  Ohio  depot  yards. 

I  must  not  forget,  however,  to  tell  the  story  of  the  great 
mountain  ranges  whose  splendor  had  splendor  added  to 
them  in  the  lofty  peaks  that  arose  here  and  there.  Canons 
and  gorges  there  were  walled  up  with  stupendous  chunks 
cut  or  rolled  from  the  mountain  side.  Forest  trees  towered 
heavenward,  and  at  their  feet  thick  underbrush  growing 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          47 

among  the  rocks,  made  coverts  for  savage  beasts,  and  hid 
ing  places  for  spotted  snakes.  The  cliffs  were  set  with 
starry  speckles  that  told  of  gold  and  silver  hidden  beneath 
the  rocky  foundations.  Rivers  there  were  whose  cascades 
sang  merry  songs,  while  boiling  rapids  raged  and  growled. 
The  placid  lakes  showed  their  love  for  Dame  Nature,  by 
bearing  her  image  in  their  bosoms,  or  helped  the  bright 
ness  of  the  sun  by  flashing  his  likeness  from  every  ripple. 
Whether  we  beheld  the  dignified  Mississippi,  the  big  muddy 
Missouri,  the  reckless  Arkansas  which  smoothed  the 
wrinkles  from  every  boulder  that  dared  interrupt  its  pas 
sage;  the  mighty  Sacramento,  whose  bed  and  banks  of 
golden  sand  were  appropriate  guides  for  the  course  to  the 
Golden  Gate,  or  the  Columbia,  alive  with  luscious  salmon, 
and  laving  with  her  silvery  waters  the  peculiar  pinnacles 
of  rock  that  looked  so  weird  as  we  took  that  moonlight 
ride;  our  tongues  would  cleave  to  the  roof  of  our  mouths 
because  we  could  not  speak.  Let  them  cleave  there  if  we 
ever  forget  these  wonders! 

The  mountains  are  the  most  wonderful  of  all.  Lan 
guage  cannot  describe  them.  Human  words  are  insufficient; 
they  appeal  to  the  inmost  soul.  Pike's  Peak  and  Shasta 
and  Hood  and  Jefferson  and  a  dozen  others  are  worthy  of 
their  places  in  fame.  Their  lofty  peaks  were  white  as 
snow  untrodden  by  foot  of  man  could  be,  save  where  some 
precipice,  decorated  with  glistering  crystals,  showed  its 
head  through  ice  field  and  glacier.  Silently  and  majes 
tically  their  summits  stood  and  pointed  upwards  like  a 
huge  finger  guiding  the  eye  to  heaven,  the  dwelling  place 
of  Him  who  made  the  mountains.  A  cathedral  wrapped 
in  gloom  may  fill  us  with  the  sense  of  the  presence  of  God, 
but  we  must  adore  His  majesty  and  might,  while  under 
the  spell  of  Shasta  and  her  sisters. 


48          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

The  clear  air  was  favorable  to  scenery.  We  never  saw 
the  stars  so  bright,  nor  the  moon  so  silvery.  As  our  train 
sped  along  the  rails,  and  the  evening  shades  began  to  fall, 
we  could  almost  see  the  silence  of  the  darkened  crooks  and 
crannies  of  the  ravines.  The  trees  were  transformed  into 
giants,  the  shrubbery  into  hobgoblins,  and  the  flowers  into 
elves  and  fairies.  Nature  outdid  herself  in  the  sunset  in 
Dakota.  The  clouds  were  heavy,  for  the  storm  which 
broke  upon  us  two  hours  later,  in  all  the  bluster  of  a  wes 
tern  shower,  was  gathering.  Just  before  the  sun  sank 
below  the  horizon,  a  rift  in  the  clouds  let  the  light  through 
and  filled  the  whole  sky  with  radiancy.  The  rich  green  of 
the  prairie  was  tinted  with  the  brilliant  scarlet  and  orange 
from  on  high.  Lines  of  purple  gold  stretched  from  hori 
zon  to  zenith.  Here  and  there  were  masses  of  billowy 
cloud;  their  purple  centres  edged  with  golden  feathers,  and 
upholding  pearly  battlements  decorated  with  gold  and  sil 
ver,  fitting  pinnacles  indeed  for  the  dome  of  heaven. 

Having  seen  all  this,  and  more,  shall  we  not  in  the  future 
love  our  native  land  better  than  before?  Her  natural 
beauty  is  the  grandest  in  the  world;  her  resources  the 
richest  beneath  the  skies.  As  never  before  we  will  sing: 

"I  love  thy  rocks  and  rills, 
Thy  woods  and  templed  hills, 
My  heart  with  rapture  thrills, 
Like  that  above." 


foiling  by  the 


To  tell  of  what,  when  and  where  we  did  our  eating,  ought 
not  to  prove  an  uninteresting  chapter.  Speaking  gener 
ally  we  ate  anything  we  could  get,  and  were  glad  if  we 
could  get  anything.  We  ate  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and 
night.  In  respect  to  us,  C.  E.  might  be  interpreted  as  Con 
tinually  Eating.  We  ate  wherever  the  train  stopped,  and  it 
stopped  everywhere.  We  were  not  particular  how  we  ate; 
the  thing  to  do  was  to  eat,  and  to  do  it  lively,  or  else  get 
left.  One  spoon  did  for  five  or  six,  and  the  seventh  stirred 
his  coffee  with  his  fork,  that  is  provided  he  had  a  fork. 
One  knife  for  each  person  was  the  rule,  and  as  many  butter 
knives  as  there  were  people.  Manners  were  gone.  No 
one  pretended  to  do  the  thing  in  form.  If  he  did,  he  did 
nothing  else.  Occasionally  the  crowd  was  rapped  for  a 
blessing,  and  the  one  blessing  served  to  give  thanks  for 
what  we  were  about  to  get,  and  what  we  had  already  eaten. 
One  reverend  gentleman  was  called  upon  to  say  grace  when 
he  was  in  the  middle,  the  most  interesting  part,  of  his  din 
ner.  It  was  a  question  with  him  whether  he  should  look 
forward,  or  back.  Whether  to  be  thankful  for  what  he 
had  already  received,  or  what  he  still  had  in  expectation. 
Being  safe  on  the  first  proposition,  he  wisely  confined  him 
self  to  the  second.  Some  ate  their  meals,  if  meals  they 
could  be  called,  on  the  folding  bed.  All  beds  fold  in  the 
West.  Some  dined  off  the  stove,  which  was  as  cold  as  the 


50          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

coffee,  and  that  was  cold  always.  Others  carried  what 
they  could  grab  into  the  Pullman  and  ate  there,  and  then 
spent  their  time  in  looking  for  more.  Eating  was  one  of 
the  stern  problems  of  the  excursion.  All  along  the  line, 
from  Baltimore  to  the  Golden  Gate,  the  manna  melted,  no 
matter  whether  the  sun  struck  it  or  not.  One  of  the  proph 
ets  says:  "The  wild  ass,  used  to  the  wilderness,  snuff eth 
up  the  wind  at  her  pleasure."  I  can  understand  that  now; 
there  were  some  places  where  there  was  nothing  else  to 
"snuff  up."  Some  days  we  dined  on  wind.  Were  glad  to  get 
it.  Like  the  wild  ass  we  became  used  to  it.  We  have 
come  to  miss  it.  We  didn't  get  fat  on  it,  but  we  snuffed  it. 
Don't  for  a  minute  think  I  am  trying  to  be  funny. 
There  wasn't  anything  funny  in  it.  Breakfast  at  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  only  seems  funny  in  print.  In 
actual  experience  it  ceases  to  be  a  joke.  When  there  was 
any  possibility  of  getting  to  a  town,  at  some  remote  hour, 
we  wired  for  something  to  eat,  and,  ordinarily,  the  whole 
population  turned  out  to  see  us  do  it.  The  way  we  pol 
ished  dishes  seemed  to  amuse  them.  It  was  serious  busi 
ness  for  us.  One  section  of  the  New  York  train  followed 
in  our  wake  for  a  number  of  miles.  They  always  found 
the  dining  rooms  swept  and  garnished.  Swept  clean  of 
food  and  garnished  with  bones.  I  assume  this  became 
monotonous,  for  once  they  sent  a  telegram  ahead  beseech 
ing  that  the  Jersey  crowd  be  not  fed.  Jersey  fed  all  the 
same,  and  when  the  New  Yorkers  arrived,  the  Jerseymen 
were  vanishing  away,  and  with  them  every  morsel  of  food 
to  be  had.  New  York  has  no  further  use  for  New  Jersey. 
These  are  sober  facts  of  history,  undigested  and  disorderly 
it  may  be,  but  so  is  the  food  with  which  we  are  still  encum 
bered.  Once  glad  to  be,  but  we  are  now  converted.  Vari 
ous  remedies,  by  patient  application,  may  in  time  help  mat- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97          51 

ters.  One  minister  preached  on  the  convention  after  he 
returned,  and  among  other  things  said,  "I  have  just  become 
used  to  one  meal  a  day,  and  now  I  am  under  necessity  of 
taking  three."  I  understand  from  his  wife  that  he  was  under 
no  serious  embarrassment.  I  suppose  there  ought  to  be 
some  order  in  the  narration  of  these  things,  but  the  din 
ing  was  disorderly,  and  nothing  falls  into  harmony. 

C.  E.  stands  for  a  lot  of  things  we  never  thought  of  before. 
Cheese  Eaters.  Cookie  Eaters.  Cracker  Eaters.  Coffee  Eaters, 
it  was  too  thick  to  drink.  Candy  Eaters.  Chicken  Eaters. 
CucumberEaters.  One  Philadelphia  minister  will  remem- 

er  the  cucumbers.  Like  the  children  of  Israel,  he  lusted 
for  them,  and  had  a  very  narrow  escape  of  being  useful  at 
Helena.  In  a  more  general  sense,  C.  E.  stands  for  other 
things.  Clamorous  Eaters.  Circumspect  Eaters,  eating 
everything  in  sight  and  then  looking  around  for  more. 
Contented  Eaters,  the  first  in  the  dining  room,  notably  cer 
tain  ones  from  Belvidere,  Salem,  Washington,  etc.  The 
last  might  stand  for  Philadelphia  and  Newark.  Curious 
Eaters,  curious  to  know  what  they  were  eating.  Deviled 
crabs  at  Baltimore  puzzled  the  whole  crowd;  every  one 
agreed  that  it  was  fish,  and  good,  but  none  knew  what  sort 

f  fish ;  possibly  the  mode  of  preparation  accounts  for  their 
nocence.  Then  there  were  the  Colored  Eaters,  no  small 
contingent.  These  were  the  porters.  They  ate  as  if  they 
were  used  to  it.  Speaking  of  the  porters;  one  was  left 
behind  at  a  station;  another  porter  remarked  the  he  would 
soon  catch  up,  as  he  saw  him  eating  tomatoes.  "What's 
that  got  to  do  with  it?"  somebody  asks,  and  the  porter 
replies,  ''Have  you  never  heard  of  Tomato  Ketchup?"  At 
the  time  we  regarded  this  as  a  thin  joke.  We  were  in  no 
condition  to  appreciate  it.  Some  of  us  will  not  soon  for 
get  one  of  these  hungry  looking  porters  at  one  of  the  eating 


52          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

stations  in  Utah.  Breakfast  was  early  that  morning,  that 
is  if  you  are  not  mindful  of  being  specially  accurate,  it  was 
about  11:30  A.  M.  For  some  days  this  porter  had  evi 
dently  eaten  nothing.  He  was  obliged  to  keep  fast  days 
according  to  ancient  traditions.  The  crowd  was  religi 
ous  enough  in  this  respect.  This  porter  had  an  opportu 
nity.  The  future  was  very  uncertain.  Like  the  camel  of 
the  desert,  he  made  up  his  mind  to  take  on  a  load  for  emer 
gencies.  He  had  before  him  a  meat  platter  filled  with 
baked  beans,  a  favorite  dish  with  the  porters.  They  stay 
by  you.  In  the  middle  of  the  platter  was  a  huge  piece  of 
corned  beef,  say  two  pounds,  fringed  by  at  least  four  quarts 
of  beans.  The  splendid  way  in  which  those  beans  dis 
solved  before  that  darkie,  would  make  a  Chinaman  and  his 
chop-sticks  blush.  While  the  plate  was  being  polished, 
the  white  eye-balls  of  the  darkie  were  rolling  around  in 
search  of  something  else;  lovingly  they  came  to  rest  on  a 
suspicious  looking  pie;  between  beans,  he  called  out  ner 
vously  to  the  waiter,  lest  some  one  capture  the  pie  before 
him,  "Is  dat  pear  pie,  boss?"  "Dunt  no,  I'll  see"  was  the 
reply,  and  forthwith  a  long  dirty  finger  was  thrust  under 
the  crust,  and  out  came  a  cherry.  It  was  not  pear  pie,  and 
under  the  circumstances  not  a  very  desirable  cherry  pie. 
Speaking  of  Utah,  no  person  on  either  of  the  Jersey  sec 
tions  will  ever  forget  a  place  called  Helper.  The  place  is 
called  Helper,  because  it  is  located  at  the  beginning  of  a 
heavy  grade,  and  ordinarily  an  additional  engine  is  attached 
to  the  train  to  "helper"  up  the  grade.  We  arrived  there  on 
Sunday  morning.  We  had  no  intention  of  travelling  on 
Sunday,  but  conscience  weakened  under  the  pangs  of 
hunger.  It  was  a  work  of  necessity  not  to  speak  of  mercy. 
We  should  have  been  in  Salt  Lake  City  on  Saturday  morn 
ing,  but  we  were  late,  and  that's  no  joke,  for  it  was  now 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          53 

Sunday  morning,  and  the  Mormon  city  was  still  some 
twelve  or  fourteen  hours  ahead  of  us.  Helper  was  not  to 
be  despised  that  Sunday  morning.  Four  little  houses  and 
a  small  eating  station,  but  this  was  superabundance  to  what 
we  had  grown  accustomed.  In  about  a  minute  after  the 
train  stopped,  standing  room  in  the  eating  room  was  at  a 
premium,  and  the  four  little  homesteads  were  literally 
swarming  with  hungry  Jerseymen,  and  this  includes 
women.  It  was  the  writer's  fortune,  with  several  clergy 
men,  to  get  into  one  of  these  8  by  12  rooms,  which  was 
flanked  by  a  similar  sized  kitchen.  One  poor  woman,  a 
native,  was  doing  her  best  in  a  bewildered  way  to  supply 
the  ham  and  eggs,  which  was  the  sole  dish  on  the  menu; 
they  came  slow,  so  slow  that  one  of  the  ministers,  about 
six  feet  tall,  you  all  know  him,  out  of  tender  sympathy  for 
the  poor  body  at  work,  or  more  likely  from  a  suspicion 
that  he  would  get  left,  decided  to  "helper,"  and  himself  as 
well.  So  it  happened  that  at  about  the  time  he  might  have 
been  ascending  the  pulpit  in  his  own  church,  he  was  stand 
ing  before  that  red  hot  kitchen  stove,  frying  ham  and  eggs. 
He  had  no  monopoly,  for  soon  two  other  clergymen  had 
gone  into  the  same  business,  and  ere  long  they  were  the 
picture  of  contentment,  as  they  leisurely  stored  away  the 
provender  so  secured.  I  have,  perhaps,  said  a  little  too 
much  about  ministers  in  this  article,  but  it  is  because  they 
were  much  in  evidence.  It  is  possibly  characteristic  when 
it  becomes  a  question  of  eating.  There  was  one  man  on 
our  section,  I  don't  know  his  name,  but  he  was  known  to 
some  of  us  under  the  name  of  Coffee.  We  called  him  that 
because  he  took  coffee  wherever  we  stopped.  In  a  mild 
way  I  should  say  that  he  drank  enough  coffee  to  supply  a 
ship  canal  between  New  York  bay  and  San  Francisco  har 
bor.  Milk  was  the  most  generally  consumed  article  of  diet 


54          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

The  quantity  of  it  that  was  gathered  into  those  Pullmans 
in  all  sorts  of  vessels  would  certainly  float  the  United  States 
navy.  I  never  saw  the  like  of  it.  Some  people  had  noth 
ing  else.  Whenever  the  train  had  passed  a  station,  all  the 
cows  in  the  neighborhood  thought  it  was  a  cyclone.  I 
understand  they  have  declined  to  give  any  more  milk  for 
a  month. 

Some  people  started  with  huge  baskets  filled  with 
eatables.  A  precaution  that  was  fully  justified  in 
experience.  One  of  my  friends,  by  no  means  an  inex 
perienced  traveller,  my  companion  on  this  trip,  turned  up 
his  nose  at  these  baskets.  He  said,  "I  can't  abide  these 
cold  meals;  the  smell  of  hard  boiled  eggs  and  dry  ham 
sandwiches  always  make  me  sick."  I  agreed  with  him, 
and  we  started  with  nothing  in  reserve.  By  the  time  we 
arrived  in  Salt  Lake  City,  we  were  both  properly  converted, 
and  on  Monday  morning  you  could  have  seen  two  chast 
ened  Endeavorers  going  softly  through  the  streets  of  the 
Mormon  city,  and  quietly  loading  two  great  baskets.  I 
fail  to  remember  all  that  was  in  them;  a  chafing  dish, 
plates,  cups,  saucers,  knives,  forks,  spoons,  salt,  pepper, 
bread,  butter,  fresh  eggs,  canned  meats,  chipped  beef, 
cheese,  coffee,  sugar,  condensed  mitfc,  etc.  We  entered 
our  car  with  the  satisfied  reflection  that  we  would  starve 
no  more.  Like  some  other  things,  this  is  much  more  fine 
in  print  than  in  experience.  The  first  meal  was  a  great 
success.  It  was  breakfast.  We  prepared  it  together.  Soft 
boiled  eggs.  Frizzled  beef  in  condensed  milk  (a  little 
sweet).  Bread  and  butter,  coffee.  What  more  do  you 
want?  As  I  said  we  prepared  that  meal  together,  and 
were  both  satisfied,  but  lost  our  enthusiasm  in  doing  the 
cooking;  we  made  the  porter  wash  the  dishes.  We 
decided  to  take  turns  at  cook.  When  he  cooked  the  meals 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          55 

-were  excellent,  to  him;  when  I  cooked  they  were  all  right, 
for  me.  If  the  thing  had  gone  on  we  couldn't  have  con 
tinued  good  friends,  so  we  gave  up  the  whole  outfit,  reserv 
ing  the  chafing  dish  to  the  porter.  On  the  basis  of  our 
munificent  donation  the  porter  set  up  the  business  and 
charged  us  ten  cents  a  cup  for  coffee;  business  increased 
with  astonishing  rapidity,  and  soon  the  porter  of  the  car 
ahead  was  in  partnership  with  ours;  out  of  the  profits  the 
capital  stock  was  increased  sufficiently  to. warrant  the  pur 
chase  of  two  oil  stoves  and  additional  cups  and  spoons;  if 
the  trip  had  gone  on  much  further  the  George  &  Benjamin 
Franklin  Co.  would  have  had  a  chattel  mortgage  on  all  of 
as.  It  was  a  costly  experiment,  but  wisdom  is  always 
expensive,  and  especially  so  when,  like  Jacob,  you  get  it 
by  experience.  I  could  write  much  more,  but  I  am  lim 
ited  in  space,  and  have  already  far  exceeded  that  which  was 
allotted  to  me.  I  can  only  say  in  conclusion,  if  hereafter 
any  hot  blooded,  youthful  Endeavorers  want  to  travel 
through  the  wild  and  wooly  West  on  a  New  Jersey  section, 
with  nothing  to  eat  but  a  vision  of  prairie  dogs,  they  are 
welcome  to  it,  but  as  for  me,  my  delight  is  with  the  sons 
of  men  who  know  enough  to  travel  on  trains  that  carry  a 
•dining  car. 


Slewing  (;ar  Contemplations. 


There  were  personal  reasons  for  my  thinking  much 
about  our  sleeping  accommodations.  We  were  nine  suc 
cessive  nights  in  our  car  going,  and  as  many  returning. 
Usually  my  bed  was  the  last  one  made ;  although'  I  was  the 
longest  sleeper  on  the  car. 

One  morning  I  borrowed  a  measuring  rule  of  an  engi 
neer  and  took  the  length  and  breadth  of  my  boudoir.  As 
I  am  six  feet  and  three  inches  from  scalp  to  the  tendon  of 
Achilles,  I  thought  of  the  Scripture,  "the  bed  was  shorter 
than  a  man  could  stretch  himself  Upon  it."  It  proved  to  be 
six  feet  two  inches  "short,"  and  two  feet  ten  inches  "nar 
row,"  with  less  than  three  feet  space  between  berths  when 
ready  for  the  night.  I  occupied  alone  the  lower  berth  of 
the  eighteenth  section. 

A  double-hinged  door  presumably  separated  my  section 
and  the  opposite  one  from  the  rest  of  the  car,  but  was  kept 
open  twenty-three  hours  and  thirty  minutes  of  the  twenty- 
four.  These  two  sections  became  the  main  sitting  room 
and  reception  room  of  our  caravansary  on  wheels.  A  con 
tinuous  aisle  ran  from  platform  to  platform. 

The  gentlemen,  last  to  retire,  lingered  around  our  made 
or  unmade  bed  until  1 1  o'clock,  and  often  later,  for  reasons 
best  known  to  themselves.  This  shortened  my  hours  of 
sleep  at  the  beginning.  Then  there  was  a  well-meaning 
rustic  who  was  afflicted  with  the  disease  of  early  rising,  and 


58          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

who,  for  my  interest  in  sleep,  the  gods  be  praised,  left  us 
for  an  extended  tour  of  Yellowstone  Park.  He  was  usually 
at  the  laver  before  4 130  A.  M.  splashing  like  a  duck,  puffing 
like  a  porpoise,  and  talking  like  a  windmill. 

At  ii  P.  M.  the  gas  was  turned  nearly  off,  and  you  could 
glance  down  a  dim  corridor,  two  feet  wide,  formed  btween 
continuous  curtains  for  sixty  feet,  and  about  eight  feet 
high. 

Each  lower  berth  gave  the  occupant  or  occupants  an 
undisputed  right  to  nearly  sixty  cubic  feet  of  air.  Each 
upper  berth  had  more,  because  of  the  unobstructed  space 
between  the  pillow  and  the  dome  of  the  car.  The  tribula 
tions  of  an  excursionist  can  not  be  fully  described.  A 
vivid  imagination  will  complete  what  can  neither  be  writ 
ten  nor  kodacked.  When  some  who  had  the  courage,  born 
of  their  surroundings,  attempted  to  lay  aside  some  of  their 
travel-stained  garments  before  getting  between  the  sheets, 
the  scene  was  variegated.  Persons  behind  opposite  cur 
tains  on  a  two  feet  aisle,  trying  to  partially  disrobe  upon 
a  lurching  car,  with  porter  and  passengers  passing  momen 
tarily,  will  find  themselves  in  peculiar,  and  sometimes  pain 
ful  contacts.  The  avoirdupois  upon  your  feet,  or  the 
momentum  with  which  your  fifth  rib  comes  in  contact  with 
the  side  of  the  berth,  or  your  cranium  collides  with  the 
ceiling,  you  have  neither  time  nor  temper  to  calculate  with 
mathematical  exactness.  And  sometimes  nolens  volens,  a 
motion  of  the  car,  peoples  the  corridor  with  more  than  an 
occasional  animated  robe  de  nuit,  pajama  or  jeagris 
most  approved.  The  conditions  which  would,  in  well 
regulated  homes,  shock  the  sense  of  propriety  and  cause 
scamperings,  are  simply  inevitable.  But  as  all  are  shar 
ers  in  the  situation,  with  commendable  equanimity,  we  rush 
to  cover,  if  only  with  the  success  of  an  ostrich. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          59 

The  effort  of  the  uninitiated  to  get  into  a  berth  for  the  first 
time,  will  not  be  forgotten.  If  after  two  or  three  attempts 
to  get  into  bed  and  get  the  proper  extremity  upon  the  pil 
low,  and  especially  into  an  upper  berth  from  the  top  of  a 
narrow  and  uncertain  step  ladder,  you  succeed,  you  are 
to  be  congratulated.  More  than  one  man  had  an  upper 
berth  in  a  section  in  which  the  lower  was  occupied  by 
ladies,  whose  acquaintance  he  had  made  upon  the  car.  For 
a  timid  man,  the  situation  presented  new  problems.  How  shall 
he  make  the  simplest  preparation  for  the  night,  such  as 
unlacing  his  shoes?  Shall  he  sit  upon  the  floor  in  the  aisle 
and  be  trodden  upon;  or  upon  the  edge  of  the  lower  berth 
wherein  are  the  ladies,  or  unwilling  even  to  part  the  cur 
tains,  try  to  climb  over  the  pole  and  roll  into  his  berth, 
shoes  and  all?  And  into  their  berths  these  bashful  men 
generally  went  as  presentable  as  when  they  appeared  in  our 
car  parlor  before  breakfast. 

So  far  I  have  spoken  of  facts  visible,  but  behind  the  cur 
tains  are  invisible  fact  and  fancy.  It  is  impossible  to  reconcile 
our  ideas  of  godliness  and  cleanliness  with  keeping  on  the 
same  garments  night  and  day  for  several  successive  days, 
even  on  a  journey.  Shoes  must  be  unlaced  and  garments 
removed.  And  a  person  must  be  considerably  undersize 
who  can  sit  upright  in  a  lower  berth.  A  man  must  hump 
his  back  and  spring  up  until  his  curved  spine  strikes  the 
upper  berth  in  order  to  get  his  coat  skirts  from  under  him. 
And  it  will  require  several  efforts  of  this  kind  for  securing 
results,  which  are  complicated  by  the  situation.  Then  he 
must  practice  the  long  neglected  feat  of  his  boyhood,  called 
"skinning  the  cat,"  to  get  all  the  way  out  of  coat  and  other 
garments.  But  particulars  can  not  be  given  in  detail.  But 
extended  arms  secure  bruised  knuckles,  and  strained  posi 
tions  are  uncomfortable.  Sometimes  the  whole  body  must 


60          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

be  lifted  from  the  mattress,  until  only  the  head  and  feet 
touch.  Various  necessities  in  disrobing  require  the  repe 
tition  of  this  beautiful  feat  in  athletics.  Within  our  limited 
space  these  motions  of  the  body  requiring  the  skill  of  a 
gymnast,  have  been  required  by  male  and  female,  old  and 
young.  It  was  often  felt,  if  not  expressed,  "this  pent  up 
Utica  does  so  contract  our  powers."  Possibly  the  trials 
of  the  ladies,  for  the  same  causes,  were  more  than  those  of 
the  gentlemen.  One  of  their  serious  complaints  was  the 
brass  ornament  at  the  lock  of  the  upper  berth.  It  was 
asserted  that  a  thrifty  porter  could  set  up  a  hair  establish 
ment  and  provide  a  switch  with  the  color  of  the  hair  of 
every  lady  on  his  car. 

And  morning  comes  after  the  longest  night.  To  become 
invested  with  that  of  which  we  have  been  divested,  is  in 
many  respects  attended  with  greater  difficulties.  The  mat 
ter  of  arranging  the  toilet  was  more  complicated  where  two 
occupied  a  berth.  The  ladies  who  did  this  had  our  sym 
pathies,  and  we  commend  them  for  their  neat  appearance 
and  true  womanliness  under  all  circumstances.  A  brother 
minister  had  an  upper  berth.  The  lower  was  occupied  by 
two  ladies  first  met  on  the  car.  It  seemed  imperative  to 
prepare  for  the  night  as  well  as  for  the  day  upon  the  nar 
row  area  and  cramped  positions  of  his  sleeping  place.  He 
had  to  disappear  in  full  dress  and  reappear  in  the  morning 
as  presentable  as  possible.  Not  enjoying  the  situation  he 
wanted  to  share  my  berth.  And  I  was  compelled  to  refuse 
his  request.  But  why?  Because  he  was  fat  and  I  was 
long.  The  shortness  of  my  bed  compelled  me  to  lie  bias, 
or  as  a  Xtian  scientist  would  say,  diagonally.  Either  W. 
would  have  had  to  curl  himself  in  the  corner  at  my  head 
or  feet,  or  our  bodies  would  have  formed  an  X,  with  the 
point  of  contact  amid-ships.  In  this  last  adjustment  each 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          61 

could  only  get  his  half  of  the  bed  by  lying  on  both  sides  of 
the  other  fellow. 

But  humor  aside  the  Pullman  was  a  great  comfort.  Even 
a  contracted  sleeping  place  was  indispensable.  Here  we 
found  tired  nature's  sweet  restorer.  As  we  think  of  some 
things  here  intimated,  and  of  some  we  have  not  ventured 
to  describe,  which  were  even  more  amusing,  we  will  have 
liappy  thoughts  of  the  companions  of  our  great  excursion, 
or  laugh  and  perhaps  grow  fat. 


Devotional  Meetings  or\  tfo  fprair\. 


It  is  said  that  Sir  William  Cecil,  when  he  was  lord-treas 
urer  of  England,  would  sometimes  throw  off  his  official 
gown,  and  say,  "lie  there,  lord-treasurer."  The  truly  pious 
cannot  throw  off  their  religion  and  say,  "Lie  there,  Chris 
tian."  Their  religion  is  not  a  garment.  It  is  a  life.  It  is 
not  put  on  and  off.  It  is  put  in  and  out.  It  is  just  as  nat 
ural  for  the  Christian  to  give  light  and  sweetness  and  joy, 
as  it  is  for  the  star  to  shine,  the  rose  to  breathe,  and  the 
bird  to  sing.  The  New  Jersey  Christian  Endeavorers  did 
not  wear  their  religion,  as  a  robe,  to  San  Francisco,  but 
they  used  it  as  a  life.  Chapters  of  evidence  might  be  sub 
mitted.  A  few  fragments  must  suffice. 

Just  after  we  left  the  state  of  New  Jersey,  a  young  lady 
on  the  second  section  of  our  train  became  ill.  Her  travel 
ling  companion  was  a  young  lady  whom  she  had  never  met 
before;  but  in  her  she  found  a  faithful  friend,  a  patient,  cheer 
ful  and  wise  nurse,  who  sacrificed  with  joy  and  served  with 
devotion.  The  most  beautiful  friendship  is  when  Jesus 
Christ  welds  the  links  of  heaven's  gold.  The  most  perfect 
service  is  where  He  lives  in  a  human  soul.  At  the  railroad 
stations  this  Christian  Endeavor  nurse  might  be  seen  try 
ing  to  purchase  delicacies  for  the  sick  one.  At  many  of  the 
points  of  interest  she  remained  on  the  car  with  her  patient, 
and,  through  all  this,  there  was  not  the  sound  of  a  murmur. 


64          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

She  made  us  think  of  Jesus.  So  did  others,  because  there 
were  similar  instances  of  exemplary  fidelity.  It  was  not  at 
all  unusual  to  see  Christian  Endeavorers  reading  their 
Bibles  every  day.  A  bright,  consecrated  Endeavorer  found 
delight  in  arranging  a  Bible  class  for  Sunday.  When  she 
could  not  get  one  teacher,  because  he  had  been  at  Pike's 

Peak,  and ,  with  charming  perseverance,  she 

worked  until  she  secured  another. 

Each  day,  about  7:30  p.  m.,  the  passengers  and  dele 
gates,  being  invited,  would  assemble  in  different  cars,  where 
helpful  services  were  held.  The  leaders  were  usually 
selected  from  the  numerous  clergymen  on  board.  The 
meetings  were  opened  with  inspiring  songs.  The  leader 
would  then  make  a  prayer,  which  was  followed  by  singing, 
and  this  in  turn  by  reading  a  portion  of  Scripture.  Then 
came  a  brief  address,  more  singing,  and  then  the  Christian 
Endeavorers  would  recite  passages  of  Scripture  and  speak. 
Certainly  it  was  difficult  at  times  to  conduct  these  meet 
ings.  There  is  a  vast  difference  between  a  fast,  flying  train 
and  a  comfortable  church  edifice,  but  some  could  hear,  all 
could  participate,  and  God  could  understand.  Sometimes 
opportunities  were  afforded  for  holding  services  at  the  sta 
tions,  where  the  train  was  to  remain  for  awhile.  These 
opportunities  were  eagerly  embraced.  Persons  residing 
near  the  stations  seemed  delighted  to  hear  the  singing, 
prayers  and  remarks.  The  station-masters  would  cheer 
fully  consent  to  the  holding  of  the  services,  and,  when 
it  was  possible,  they  and  the  railroad  men  generally 
attended.  At  one  of  these  stations  there  was  found  a  large 
Mormon  population.  The  superintendent  of  the  primary 
department  of  the  Bethany  Presbyterian  Sunday  School, 
who  was  en  route  to  San  Francisco  with  us,  taught  the  lit 
tle  Mormon  children  an  impressive  Sunday  School  lesson. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97         65 

At  the  close  of  the  lesson  she  made  a  tender  appeal  to  the 
children,  and  they  held  up  their  hands  for^  prayer.  The 
effect  of  this  meeting  was  somewhat  spoiled  by  a  ludicrous 
blunder  on  the  part  of  a  zealous  clergyman  from  New 
Jersey.  He  thought  it  would  be  an  excellent  idea  to  have  the 
children  sing  at  the  close  of  the  services.  Accordingly  he 
selected  from  a  Mormon  hymnal,  a  song  beginning  with  a 
reference  to  Christ.  Without  reading  the  entire  stanza, 
he  promptly  requested  the  children  to  sing  that  hymn. 
They  agreed  to  do  so.  When  the  prayer  was  ended  they 
began  to  sing  with  voices  clear,  sweet  and  ringing,  and 
each  stanza  closed  with,  "I'll  be  a  little  Mormon  and  follow 
Brigham  Young."  There  is  a  moral  here  transparently 
clear. 

At  another  station  among  the  eager  spectators  was  an 
old  lady,  who  said  she  had  come  a  long  distance  to  see  the 
Christian  Endeavorers.  She  told  us  in  her  plaintive  way 
that  she  lived  so  far  from  even  the  nearest  church,  out  in 
that  prairie  land,  that  it  was  impossible  for  her  to  attend 
divine  services,  and  that  she  had  not  heard  a  sermon  for 
many  years.  "Please  sing  to  me,"  said  she,  and  the  Chris 
tian  Endeavorers  sang,  as  only  they  can  sing  when  their 
hearts  are  so  deeply  moved,  "How  Firm  a  Foundation,  ye 
Saints  of  the  Lord."  When  the  following  stanza:  "E'en 
down  to  old  age  all  my  people  shall  prove,  my  sovereign, 
eternal,  unchangeable  love,"  etc.,  was  being  sung,  the  train 
started,  and  the  good  old  woman  lifted  her  thin,  pale  hand, 
and  with  tears  streaming  down  her  time-furrowed  cheeks, 
she  said:  "God  bless  you, my  children!  Do  not  forget  that 
you  helped  the  old  woman  on  the  prairies."  It  was  worth 
a  trip  across  the  continent  to  be  of  service  to  such  a  soul; 
and  receive  the  benediction  of  that  saint.  Although  she 
has  been  deprived  of  the  public  worship  of  God,  she  has 


66          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97 

grown  ripe  and  beautiful  in  the  sunshine  of  His  immedi 
ate  presence.  Shall  we  meet  her  again  at  life's'  last  station, 
and  will  she  then  sing  to  us  a  song  of  the  ransomed  in  that 
sweet,  summer  land  above;  and  then  shall  we  go  up 
together  to  praise  Him  who  makes  His  service  so  blessed? 
It  was  carefully  planned  that  we  should  reach  Salt  Lake 
City  before  Sunday;  but  this,  under  the  circumstances,  was 
impossible.  Very  much  to  the  regret  of  all  concerned,  it 
became  necessary  to  run  the  train  until  late  Sunday  after 
noon.  This  was  due,  as  all  will  understand,  to  the  fact  that 
so  many  trains  were  on  the  road,  and  that  we  were  first 
blocked  and  then  pushed.  Under  ordinary  circumstances 
our  consciences  would  have  been  crushed  between  the 
wheels  and  the  tracks,  and  the  rumbling  wheels  would 
have  said,  "Thou  art  condemned."  But  instead  of  this  we 
made  the  wheels  rumble  praises  to  God,  and  we  turned 
the  cars  into  churches.  Daily  devotional  services  were 
also  held  in  some  of  the  hotels  at  San  Francisco,  and  it  was 
a  familiar  sound  to  hear  the  Endeavorers  on  streetcars  sing 
ing  happy  Christian  songs.  When  the  convention  was  ended 
and  once  again  we  all  met  on  the  train,  it  really  seemed 
like  a  family  reunion,  and  our  altar  of  prayer  was  fra 
grant  with  thanksgiving.  The  loved  ones  at  home  were 
always  remembered  in  prayer,  both  as  we  were  going  and 
as  we  were  returning.  On  tne  "homeward  bound"  we 
spent  Sunday  at  Helena,  Mon.  The  New  York  delegates 
were  also  there,  and  the  ministers  of  New  York  and  New 
Jersey  filled  the  pulpits  of  the  Helena  churches  at  the 
morning  services.  In  the  afternoon  a  mass-meeting  was 
held,  and  Rev.  Cortland  Myers,  D.  D.,  delivered  an  ear 
nest  address.  Another  mass-meeting  took  place  in  the 
evening,  and  Rev.  J.  Wilbur  Chapman,  D.  D.,  who  was 
with  the  New  Jersey  delegates,  delivered  a  sermon  of  great 


JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          67 

power.  Services  were  continued  at  every  possible  place, 
and  at  the  most  opportune  time,  until  the  last  day  ended. 
We  had  just  eaten  dinner  at  the  Queen  City  Hotel,  Cum 
berland,  Md.,  when  Rev.  Dr.  Chapman  stood  on  the  long 
porch  in  front  of  the  hotel,  and,  with  the  Endeavorers  all 
around  him,  he  conducted  a  most  impressive  farewell  meet 
ing.  He  announced  at  this  time  that  services  would  be 
held  with  a  sick  lady  on  one  of  the  cars.  This  meeting 
took  place  just  after  we  left  Cumberland,  and  it  was  fol 
lowed  by  another  farewell  service,  conducted  by  the  Rev. 
T.  E.  Davis.  Mr.  Davis  read  an  appropriate  Psalm,  and 
devoutly  acknowledged  the  gracious  protection  of  Al 
mighty  God,  and  His  divine  aid  granted  unto  the  chairman 
of  the  Transportation  Committee  in  all  his  arduous  duties. 
In  addition  to  the  benefits  already  mentioned  as  derived 
from  these  meetings,  there  were  many  others.  There 
were  persons  on  the  excursion  who  were  not  Chris 
tian  Endeavorers,  and  some  of  them  were  not  even  Chris 
tians.  It  was  perfectly  evident  the  Christians  were  edi 
fied,  and  that  others  were  deeply  impressed.  The  brake- 
men  sometimes  attended,  and  the  porters,  also,  were  usu 
ally  present.  There  are  reasons  for  believing  that  these 
men  received  permanent  profit.  Some  of  them  are  mem 
bers  of  the  churches  where  they  reside,  but  their  vocations 
preclude  the  possibility  of  their  being  present  very  often  at 
the  divine  services.  They  were  like  thirsty  souls  drinking 
at  fountains  pure  and  cool.  Some  of  the  popular  Chris 
tian  Endeavor  songs  became  favorites  with  the  uncon 
verted,  and  they  frequently  requested  us  to  sing  them. 
The  writer  is  acquainted  with  a  man  who  seldom,  if  ever, 
attended  church  when  he  was  home.  One  day  we  were 
singing,  "What  a  Friend  We  Have  in  Jesus,"  and  some 
one  stepped  to  the  side  of  the  writer,  took  hold  of  his  book, 


68          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA^  '97. 

and  began  to  sing  very  heartily.  He  turned  and  looked, 
and  it  was  that  man.  A  subsequent  conversation  proved 
that  the  good  seed  had  not  fallen  in  unprolific  soil.  More 
over,  the  reflex  influence  upon  the  Endeavorers  themselves 
was  most  wholesome.  They  were  abundantly  benefited. 
Life,  love  and  duty  triumphed.  The  greatest  thing  in  the 
world  is  life.  The  greatest  thing  in  life  is  love.  The  great 
est  thing  in  love  is  duty.  Life  is  the  seed,  love  is  the 
stem,  and  duty  is  the  blooming  flower.. 

The  Christian  Endeavorers  on  the  New  Jersey  Special 
did  their  duty.  But,  above  all,  God  was  glorified.  Re 
ligion  was  exemplified  as  something  beautiful,  joyous, 
attractive.  The  seeds  of  Christ's  harvest  were  scattered. 
We  cannot  account  for  all.  Some  are  hidden.  They  shall 
germinate,  grow  and  ripen.  In  the  harvest  day,  by  and  by, 
shall  we  find  sheaves  that  we  did  not  know  of,  that  we  did 
not  expect?  Probably. 


To  the  writer  of  this  article  has  been  assigned  the  duty 
of  writing  up  "The  Convention  of  Young  Peoples'  Society 
of  Christian  Endeavor,"  which  was  held  in  San  Francisco, 
July  7  to  12,  1897.  But  where  shall  the  writer  begin; 
where  end?  What  shall  he  include;  what  leave  out?  To 
give  even  a  synopsis  of  all  the  addresses  delivered  at  the 
various  meetings,  would  be  to  make  a  good  sized  volume; 
to  select  this  or  that  address  and  ^particularize,  will  be  to 
invite  criticism  as  to  judgment,  and  yet  in  pursuance  of 
duty  we  may  be  led  to  brave  that. 

How  can  he  convey  in  language  the  enthusiasm  that  was 
apparent,  or  paint  in  words  the  deep  spiritual  undercurrent 
that  was  felt,  although  unseen?  Two  elements  that  were  pres 
ent,  and  which  combined  to  stamp  the  convention  as  one 
of  the  best,  if  not  the  best,  ever  held;  for  from  the  open 
ing  session  on  Thursday  morning,  July  7,  to  the  close  of 
the  one  on  Monday  evening,  July  12,  the  convention  moved 
forward  with  ever  increasing  enthusiasm  and  spiritual 
power;  true  there  was  one  or  more  breaks  in  the  program, 
caused  by  sickness,  but  the  breaks  were  so  skilfully  bridged 
by  those  in  charge,  that  there  was  no  apparent  check  to  the 
enthusiasm,  or  loss  to  the  spiritual  power  with  which  the 
convention  was  carried  forward. 

The  various  addresses  of  welcome  tended  to  start  the 
convention  on  a  high  plane,  and  from  the  many  we  make 


70          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

selections.  The  one  delivered  by  Mr.  R.  V.  Watt,  Chair 
man  of  the  Convention  Committee  contains  these  words: 

"We  welcome  you  therefore  because  you  are  seeking  to 
present  the  Savior  of  man  to  the  world  that  the  world  may 
be  made  better. 

"We  welcome  you  for  your  own  sakes;  your  buoyant 
enthusiasm,  your  thoughtful  earnestness,  your  calm  deter 
mination,  your  intelligence,  your  integrity,  your  sincerity, 
your  consecration  to  a  great  cause,  commands  our  admira 
tion,  begets  our  love,  and  makes  us  your  willing  servants. 

"We  welcome  you  because  of  the  millions  of  young  peo 
ple  devoted  to  good  citizenship,  temperance  and  righteous 
ness  whom  you  represent. 

"We  welcome  you  because  we  believe  you  will  be  among 
our  people  'living  epistles  known  and  read  of  all  men/  and 
that  thereby  the  youth  of  our  sundown  country  may  be  in 
spired  to  greater  zeal  in  all  right  effort. 

"We  welcome  you  because  we  believe  your  coming  will 
direct  the  thoughts  and  attention  of  our  young  people  to 
higher  and  holier  things,  and  because  many  lives  will  be 
made  better  and  more  useful  by  what  shall  be  uttered  by 
those  who  will  occupy  the  platform  from  day  to  day," 

From  the  one  delivered  by  Rev.  J.  K.  McLean,  D.  D., 
who  spoke  for  the  pastors  of  the  Golden  Gate,  we  quote  as 
follows : 

"My  friends,  it  gives  us  new  courage  when  we  realize  by 
the  presence  of  such  a  gathering  as  this  the  mighty  forces 
of  prayer  and  sympathy  and  work  and  love  that  we  have 
behind  us,  and  it  gives  us  greater  assurance  in  those  vis 
ions  of  the  future  when  we  comprehend — as  we  cannot, 
except  by  ocular  demonstration — the  incarnation  of  Chris 
tianity  in  our  own  and  other  lands ;  it  gives  us  hopes  of  the 
recruits  we  are  to  receive  by  and  by,  those  who  are  to  be 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          71 

co-workers  with  us  and  our  successors  in  this  work.  There 
fore  it  gives  us  great  gladness  to  see  you  here  to-day.  We 
ask  of  you  to  look  upon  our  foundations ;  we  ask  of  you  to 
leave  your  sympathy,  your  prayers,  your  love  and  your 
undying  interest  here." 

The  annual  address  of  President  Clark,  which  was  deliv 
ered  in  the  opening  session,  was  characteristic  of  the  man. 
Broad  in  conception  and  catholic  in  spirit,  encircling  the 
world  with  the  Gospel  of  Christ. 

His  theme  was  as  follows: 

"A  world-encircling  religious  movement;  how  shall  it 
fulfill  God's  design?" 

In  the  address,  when  alluding  to  the  movements  of  the 
Lord's  hosts  going  forth  conquering,  and  still  to  conquer, 
-we  have  these  words: 

"This  is  a  world  movement,  thank  God,  away  from  mate 
rialism,  formalism  and  a  barren  ecclesiasticism,  back  to 
God  himself.  It  is  the  'Spirit  of  life/  the  'life  hid  with 
Christ  in  God/  the  life  emptied  of  selt  and  surrendered  to 
God.  Of  this  movement  Christian  Endeavor  is  a  part, 
-vitalized  by  it,  and  on  its  part,  contributing  to  it/'  and 
then  follows  this  injunction: 

"Endeavorers,  let  this  be  the  motto,  the  purpose,  the 
prayer  of  this  coming  seventeenth  year;  to  come  within 
the  blessed  reach  of  this  current,  to  abide  in  Christ,  to  sur 
render  ourselves  to  Him,  to  let  Him  use  us,  to  think  less 
•of  our  efforts  and  more  of  His  fullness;  to  seek  a  larger 
infilling  from  above,  deeping  draughts  of  His  life,  more 
-emptiness  of  self,  more  fulness  of  Christ." 

Equally  interesting  and  impressive  was  the  annual  report 
of  the  General  Secretary,  J.  Willis  Baer,  from  which,  for 
future  reference,  we  quote.  There  are  at  present  50,780 


72          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

local  societies  of  Christian  Endeavors,  with  a  membership 
of  3,000,000. 

Referring  to  the  movement  throughout  the  world  he 
said: 

"England  has  3,925  societies;  Australia,  2,124;  Scotland, 
433;  Wales,  311;  India,  250;  Ireland,  169;  Madagascar, 
93;  France,  68;  Mexico,  100;  Japan,  66;  West  Indies, 
63;  Turkey,  41;  China,  53;  Africa,  52;  Germany,  32,  and 
so  on  through  a  long  list,  with  a  total  of  7,919  societies.  In 
addition,  all  Canada  has  3,390  societies." 

Alluding  to  the  interdenominational  spirit  of  the  move 
ment,  he  gave  the  following: 

"In  the  United  States  the  Presbyterians  are  more  numer 
ous  than  any  other,  there  being  5,531  Young  People's 
societies  and  2,934  Junior  societies.  The  Congregational- 
ists  are  next,  with  4,156  Young  People's  and  2,407  Junior; 
the  Disciples  of  Christ  third,  numbering  3,208  Young  Peo 
ple's  societies  and  1,322  Junior;  Baptists,  2,640  Young 
People's  societies  and  1,080  Junior;  Cumberland  Presby 
terian,  867  Young  People's  societies  and  361  Junior; 
Methodist  Protestants,  971  Young  People's  societies  and 
251  Junior;  Lutherans,  869  Young  People's  and  324 
Junior,  and  so  on,  until  we  have  enumerated  nearly  forty 
different  varieties. 

"In  Canada,  the  Methodists  lead  with  1,062  Young  Peo 
ple's  societies  and  170  Junior;  Presbyterians,  1,056  Young 
People's  societies  and  146  Junior;  Baptists,  168  Young 
People's  societies  and  35  Junior. 

"In  the  United  Kingdom  the  Congregationalists,  with 
1216,  lead  the  Baptists  by  only  6  societies.  Then  the  Pres 
byterians  and  Primitive  Methodists  follow.  Under  the 
Southern  Cross,  in  Australasia,  the  Western  Methodists  are 
the  most  numerous." 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97          73 

Speaking  of  the  increase  in  Missionary  spirit  he  stated 
that: 

"A  'missionary  roll  of  honor'  will  be  unrolled  in  one  of 
our  meetings  next  Monday.  Upon  it  are  the  names  of 
10,468  Christian  Endeavor  societies  that  have  given  nearly 
$200,000  to  missions  through  their  own  denominational 
mission  boards.  And  these  same  societies  have  given 
an  equal  amount  for  other  benevolences.  The  largest  gift 
to  missions  reported  by  any  one  society  is  $1,437.01,  of  the 
Clarendon  street  Baptist  Society  of  Boston.  The  Calvary 
Presbyterian  Society  of  Buffalo  is  second,  with  $1,016.85. 

"And  we  must  take  off  our  hats  to  a  Chinese  society  here 
in  San  Francisco,  the  one  in  the  Chinese  Congregational 
Mission.  It  stands  third,  having  given  nearly  $700  to  its 
own  denominational  missionary  board,  and  is  supporting 
six  missionaries  in  the  field." 

But  best  of  all,  he  said:  "During  the  last  year  25,264 
of  the  Juniors  have  joined  the  church,  and  187,125  from 
the  Senior  department;  in  all,  213,385."  Truly  a  host 
ransomed,  and  for  which  the  church  of  God  may  well  thank 
Him  and  praise  His  holy  name. 

The  evangelistic  thought  was  emphasized  this  year,  and 
many  services  were  held  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  under 
the  leadership  of  such  men  as  Rev.  J.  Wilbur  Chapman,  D. 
D.,  of  Philadelphia;  Rev.  Ford.  Ottman,  of  Newark,  N.  J.; 
Rev.  R.  Y.  Pierce,  of  Philadelphia,  who  had  at  their  com 
mand  a  host  of  workers. 

In  addition  to  the  evangelistic  services,  which  formed 
a  part  of  the  program  of  the  convention,  the  Committee  of 
Arrangements  had  introduced  some  special  services  which 
were  instructive,  helpful  and  inspiring.  Such  was  the 
"Daily  hour  for  Bible  study,"  from  8:30  to  9:15  A.  M.,  in 
the  Central  M.  E.  Church,  conducted  by  one  of  the  best  of 


74          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

Bible  teachers,  Prof.  Herbert  L.  Willett,  of  Chicago. 
Here  many  found  their  way  from  day  to  day  to  learn  the 
method  of  teaching,  and  obtain  clearer  knowledge  of  the 
word  taught. 

Another  very  helpful  service  was  the  "Quiet  Hour"  from 
4:30  to  5:30  in  the  afternoon;  this  meeting  was  held  in  the 
Calvary  Presbyterian  Church,  under  the  leadership  of 
Mr.  W.  C.  Studd,  of  London,  Eng.,  assisted  by  Dr.  Chap 
man,  of  Philadelphia.  How  restful  the  hours  spent  in  this 
place;  how  helpful  to  the  deepening  of  spiritual  life  were 
the  talks  given  by  these  men  of  God.  How  strengthening 
and  inspiring  for  service  was  the  consciousness  of  the  pres 
ence  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

The  hour  from  8:30  to  9:15  every  morning  in  the  First 
United  Presbyterian  Church,  was  an  attractive  one  for 
many;  for  here  was  to  be  found  Rev.  R.  F.  Y.  Pierce,  of 
Philadelphia,  with  his  bit  of  magic  chalk,  showing  the 
practical  use  of  the  black  board  in  Christian  work.  How 
quickly  the  hour  slipped  away  as  we  watched  his  hand  and 
listened  to  his  talk.  We  give  one  of  his  illustrations  which 
was  heard  by  many:  "Sin  shatters  so  many  precious  and 
noble  lives;  God  meant  that  our  hearts  should  be  full  of 
glee;  that  our  hearts  should  be  laughing  and  full  of  song." 
In  two  seconds  he  drew  a  big  heart  in  outline,  and  with  a 
few  strokes  he  put  in  eyes,  nose  and  a  laughing  mouth. 
"Then,"  said  he,  "the  devil  came  along  and  turned  the 
laugh  upside  down  and  put  lines  of  care  in  the  face,"  and 
while  he  said  it  with  a  dash  of  his  chalk,  the  mouth  was 
reversed  and  the  suggestion  of  a  countenance  was  a  pic 
ture  of  woe.  He  continued :  "The  Devil  comes  and  shat 
ters  our  joy.  David  once  sang,  'in  thy  presence,  O  God, 
is  fulness  of  joy/  but  David's  note  of  joy  was  changed." 
While  he  was  speaking,  there  appeared  a  section  of  a  staff 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          75 

of  music,  and  above  it  a  dark  cloud  of  sin.  Suddenly  a 
lightening  bolt  shot  from  the  cloud,  shattering  a  bar,  and 
the  note  of  "Joy"  dropped  out.  The  lesson  was  impres 
sive  and  not  readily  forgotten. 

"Men  see  the  truth,"  said  Mr.  Pierce,  "they  may  forget 
the  words,  but  they  never  forget  the  picture;  to  me  it  is  so 
simple  that  I  marvel  that  a  few  ministers  are  doing  it." 

Another  new  feature  of  this  convention  was  the  service 
on  Sunday  afternoon  in  the  First  United  Presbyterian 
Church  for  boys  and  girls.  This  meeting  was  led  by  J. 
Willis  Baer.  In  this  meeting  over  1,500  children,  from 
the  little  tot  of  four  years,  to  the  boy  of  fifteen,  were  gath 
ered,  filling-  the  entire  audience  room.  Here  came  Dr. 
Pentecost  to  talk  to  them  on  "My  son,  give  me  thine  heart." 
How  pleasing  his  manner  as  he  told  them  how,  if  they  gave 
their  hearts  to  God,  they  would  place  their  bodies  as  well 
as  their  souls  in  the  keeping  of  the  Creator.  Here  also 
Mr.  C.  N.  Hunt,  the  converted  lawyer,  who  has  given  up 
his  practice  of  law  to  do  the  work  of  an  evangelist,  was 
pressed  into  service.  How  intent  was  the  attention  of  the 
audience  as  he  told  them  of  Jesus,  and  urged  them  to  "Try 
and  be  like  Jesus." 

While  this  meeting  was  going  on,  there  was  also  one  like 
it  in  spirit  being  held  in  Woodward's  pavilion  for  men 
only;  conducted  by  Dr.  Chapman,  assisted  by  Rev.  F.  C. 
Ottman.  The  latter  in  his  address  laid  great  stress  upon 
the  value  of  faith.  "Religious  belief,"  he  said,  "could  not 
always  be  based  upon  reason,  because  God's  ways  are 
inscrutable,  and  man's  range  of  vision  limited."  Citing 
Israel  crossing  Jordan  as  illustrating  his  thought.  His 
address,  although  short,  was  a  fitting  prelude  to  the  one 
which  followed  by  Dr.  Chapman,  who  spoke  on  "Dissipa 
tion,  Infidelity  and  Morality." 


76          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

The  Doctor's  address  was  practical,  tending-  to  arouse 
conscience.  At  the  close  of  his  remarks  he  asked  all  of 
those  who  felt  the  need  of  living  a  better  life,  and  wished 
him  to  pray  for  them,  to  raise  their  hands.  All  over  the 
great  audience  hands  were  raised.  And  then  followed  the 
prayer  so  full  of  tenderness;  so  full  of  yearning  for  salva 
tion  for  these,  that  many  hearts  were  touched,  as  was  man 
ifest  by  the  wet  eyes  when  prayer  was  ended. 

Simultaneous  with  this  meeting  for  men,  was  one  for 
women  only  in  the  First  Congregational  Church,  to  which 
the  women  came  in  such  numbers  as  to  fill  the  church  to 
overflowing,  many  being  content  to  remain  in  the  outer 
hall,  being  unable  to  get  any  farther.  The  meeting  was 
conducted  by  Mrs. F.E.Clark, who, under  the  providence  of 
God  was  enabled  to  make  it  one  that  those  present  will  not 
soon  forget. 

Among  the  speakers  was  Mrs.  V.  E.  Mathews,  of  New 
York,  who  spoke  in  behalf  of  her  race,  the  Afro-American 
women;  how  intently  that  vast  audience  listens  as  she 
speaks. 

Thanking  God  for  His  boundless  love,  which  included 
her  and  her  race  in  the  plan  of  salvation,  she  added:  "All 
the  more  are  we  grateful  to  the  moral  and  Christian  forces 
of  the  world,  the  Christian  statesmen  and  soldiers  and 
scholars,  who  were  the  divine  instruments,  making  it  pos 
sible  for  this  womanhood  to  stand  in  this  august  presence 
to-day/' 

What  one  of  that  great  throng  will  ever  forget  the  object 
lesson  on  Missions  that  Mrs.  Clark  gave  them,  when  plac 
ing  a  little  Chinese  girl  on  the  reading  desk,  she  said:  "Un 
less  this  little  girl  is  rescued,  she  will  be  sold  as  a  slave; 
her  life  will  be  one  of  hardship  and  degradation;  her  fate 
seems  almost  too  dreadful  to  contemplate."  What  a  thrill 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          77 

went  through  that  vast  audience.  "Sold  as  a  slave!  and 
in  this  country!"  they  cried.  Ah,  yes,  they  of  the  Pacific 
Slope  knew  this  too  well;  but  those  of  the  East,  to  them  it 
was  something  they  had  read  about,  but  could  scarcely 
belief  it  to  be  so.  But  now  their  sad  faces  and  streaming 
eyes  told  volumes.  To  them  that  little  girl  was  a  practical 
lesson  in  Home  Missionary  work;  henceforth  they  would 
aid  their  sisters  in  the  slope  of  the  Pacific  to  rescue  such 
as  these,  and  would  follow  their  gifts  with  their  prayers. 

The  addresses  during  the  convention  were  of  the  same 
high  order  as  of  former  years.  How  could  they  be  other 
wise  with  the  speakers  that  addressed  the  convention. 
They  being  Rev.  Josiah  Strong,  D.  D.,  Rev.  B.  B.  Tyler, 
D.  D.,  Rev.  George  F.  Pentecost,  D.  D.,  Rev.  Silas  Mead, 
LL.  D.,  Rev.  Matt.  S.  Hughes,  D.  D.,  Rev.  R.  Y.  Pierce, 
Rev.  J.  W.  Chapman,  D.  D.,  Rev.  F.  E.  Clark,  D.  D.,  and 
others.  The  consecration  services  on  Monday  evening, 
brought  the  convention  to  a  close.  At  the  one  in  Mechanics' 
Pavilion,  Rev.  F.  E.  Clark  presided,  and  Rev.  G.  F.  Pente 
cost,  D.  D.,  preached  the  sermon.  E)r.  Pentecost  is  a 
magnetic  talker,  and  enforced  his  arguments  with  the 
strongest  reasons. 

The  consecration  service  which  followed,  was  conducted 
by  Dr.  Clark,  and  consisted  in  roll  call  of  states.  The 
answer  of  our  state  being:  "He  shall  have  dominion  from 
sea  to  sea,  and  from  the  river  unto  the  end  of  the  earth," 
and  one  verse  of  "my  faith  looks  up  to  Thee."  The  meet 
ing  held  in  Woodward's  Pavilion,  had  as  its  presiding 
officer,  J.  Willis  Baer,  and  Dr.  J.  W.  Chapman  as  preacher. 
Here,  as  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  the  audience  filled  the 
building  to  overflowing. 

The  preacher  urged  upon  his  hearers  a  closer  walk  with 
God,  and  exhorted  the  Endeavorers  to  put  forth  every 


78          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

effort  to  come  closer  to  Him,  not  only  in  the  consecration 
service,  but  in  their  whole  lives. 

He  made  a  strong  and  eloquent  plea  for  a  fearless  up 
holding  of  the  banner  of  Jesus  Christ. 

The  service  for  consecration  to  the  service  of  Christ 
began  with  silent  prayer  by  the  vast  audience,  after  which 
Secretary  Baer  exhorted  all  present  to  let  their  light  shine, 
and  thereby  let  the  world  know  that  they  had  given  their 
hearts,  their  souls,  to  God.  The  roll  of  states  was  then 
called  and  responses,  same  as  in  the  other  building,  were 
given.  Then  followed  the  benediction,  and  the  sixteenth 
annual  convention  of  the  Christian  Endeavor  was  ad 
journed. 


San  Francisco  has  been  enshrined  within  the  hearts  of 
the  nearly  five  hundred  delegates  from  New  Jersey,  who 
attended  the  "Sixteenth  National  C.  E.  Convention,"  lately 
held  in  the  city  by  the  "Golden  Gate." 

San  Francisco  originally  comprised  two  villages,  Yerba 
Buena  and  Dolores.  They  were  united  under  one  name 
in  1847. 

Fifty  years  ago  only  four  hundred  and  fifty  persons  lived 
within  the  present  bounds  of  the  city. 

The  discovery  of  gold  in  1848,  caused  an  excitement 
similar  to  that  of  to-day,  resulting  from  the  discovery  of 
gold  in  the  Klondike  regions.  Multitudes  flocked  thither 
from  every  nation,  clime  and  tongue!  The  city  sprang 
up  as  if  by  magic.  This  marvelous  growth  has  continued 
until  San  Francisco  stands  among  the  leading  cities  of  the 
world,  with  a  population  of  about  330,000. 

Well  has  San  Francisco  been  called  the  "City  of  the 
Hundred  Hills."  These  hills  are  from  two  hundred  to  six 
hundred  feet  in  height.  The  streets  are  laid  out  at  right 
angles  to  each  other,  and  run  over  the  hills,  instead  of 
around  them,  as  one  might  expect.  Thus  are  these  hills 
terraced  on  every  side. 

The  city  enjoys  the  best  street  car  service  in  the  world. 
As  the  cable  car  glides  rapidly  and  smoothly  down  one  of 


80          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97 

the  steepest  streets  with  the  eyes  closed,  one  can  easily 
imagine  himself  enjoying  a  toboggan  slide. 

The  "Broadway"  of  the  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  slope, 
is  Market  street.  It  extends  from  the  sea  wall,  directly 
through  the  heart  of  the  city  to  the  bay.  Nearly  all  the 
principal  street  car  lines  converge  in  it. 

Many  are  the  interesting  and  costly  buildings  seen  by  visi 
tors  within  the  city's  gates.  Among  the  most  imposing 
structures  is  the  Palace  Hotel,  built  at  great  cost,  and  cov 
ering  two  and  a  half  acres  of  ground.  Its  inner  court  is  of 
Spanish  design,  roofed  with  glass  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above.  White  enamelled  columns  support  the  gal 
leries,  which  surround  the  court.  At  night  the  sight  is 
most  beautiful,  when  lighted  up  by  a  multitude  of  incan 
descent  lamps. 

The  new  City  Hall  stands  near  Mechanic's  Pavilion,  the 
headquarters  of  the  Convention.  It  is  still  in  course  of 
construction.  When  completed  it  will  cost  $4,000,000.  It 
covers  six  and  three-quarters  acres.  Its  dome  points  heav 
enward,  farther  than  that  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington. 

The  palatial  residences  of  aristocratic  San  Francisco  on 
Nob  Hill,  are  among  the  most  capacious,  elegant  and 
costly  in  the  world. 

Public  buildings,  including  libraries,  schools  and 
churches  have  been  erected  throughout  the  city,  without 
the  sparing  of  expense. 

At  the  foot  of  Nob  Hill,  on  the  east,  is  the  Chinese  por 
tion  of  the  city,  "Chinatown."  It  is  one  of  the  greatest 
curiosities  to  visitors.  Instead  of  its  being  a  suburb  of 
the  city,  as  most  strangers  suppose,  it  occupies  four  or  five 
blocks  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city.  By  crossing  a  street, 
one  steps  from  the  fashionable  world  into  a  transplanted 
bit  of  China.  Here  30,000  Chinamen  are  huddled  to- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          81 

gether  in  quarters  which  would  not  accommodate  one- 
fifth  that  number  of  Americans.  They  have  brought  with 
them  all  the  habits  and  ways  of  life  of  the  mother  country. 

They  have  their  theatres,  joss-houses,  opium  joints, 
gambling  dens  and  places  of  business,  all  conducted  in  the 
Chinese  fashion. 

Were  you  in  "Chinatown"  on  the  Sabbath?  If  so,  it 
did  not  seem  at  all  like  the  Christian  Sabbath.  Though 
living  in  the  very  heart  of  one  of  the  finest  cities  on  the 
globe,  these  heathen  people  are  allowed  to  do  and  to  live 
about  as  they  please.  The  Sabbath  is  desecrated  by  a  con 
tinuous  buying  and  selling.  Some  of  their  wares  exposed  for 
sale,  especially  their  dried  and  smoked  meats  are  almost 
nauseating  to  look  upon. 

Slavery  was  abolished  by  the  United  States  a  third  of  a 
century  ago.  But  alas,  in  the  heart  of  San  Francisco 
there  exists  a  slavery  ten  thousand  times  more  degrading 
and  terrible  than  that  of  which  mention  has  been  made. 

A  noted  writer  for  the  "Golden  Rule,"  in  speaking  of 
this  great  curse,  says:  "One  would  have  to  go  to  perdi 
tion  to  find  language  in  any  sense  adequate  to  describe  the 
enormity  of  human  slavery  as  seen  in  "Chinatown,"  where 
behind  screens  girls  and  young  women  are  denied  their 
liberty." 

A  few  years  ago  the  cry  was :  "San  Francisco  needs  the 
Convention."  She  has  had  it.  May  our  dear  heavenly 
Father  so  bless  the  holding  of  the  Convention  in  that  city 
that  this  crying  shame  and  dark  blot  of  infamy  may  be 
wiped  out,  and  forever! 

Notwithstanding  the  abominable  and  heathenish  prac 
tices  of  "Chinatown,"  all  is  not  dark.  In  the  Christian  ser 
vices  held  in  the  various  Chinese  chapels,  and  the  seed 
sown  in  the  Sabbath  Schools,  as  witnessed  by  some  of  the 


82          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

C.  E.  delegates,  the  "leaven"  is  seen  to  be  surely  working. 
A  blessed  work  is  being  done  at  the  Presbyterian  "Rescue 
Mission  for  Girls." 

Many  are  the  places  of  interest  in  the  outskirts  of  the 
city.  Among  these  are  the  Sutro  Baths.  They  are  in  an 
immense  amphitheatre,  covered  with  glass,  affording  ac 
commodations  for  eight  thousand  persons.  One  may  enjoy 
either  hot  or  cold,  salt  or  fresh  water  bathing.  These 
baths  are  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  were  built  by  one  of 
San  Francisco's  benevolent  citizens,  a  Jew  and  an  ex- 
Mayor. 

Sutro  Gardens  were  laid  out  and  built  by  the  same  per 
son.  They  are  filled  with  costly  semi-tropical  plants  and 
flowers.  Well  kept  drives  and  walks  thread  the  grounds. 
Costly  statuary  is  found  in  various  parts  of  the  garden, 
among  the  shrubbery  and  in  secluded  nooks,  as  well  as  in 
the  more  prominent  portions.  A  most  interesting  museum 
attracts  the  attention  of  the  visitor. 

Sutro  Heights  afford  an  extensive  view  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  perhaps  the  finest  to  be  obtained  by  the  traveler 
anywhere  on  the  California  coast. 

The  ride  to  the  Cliff  House  from  any  part  of  the  city, 
either  by  steam  or  electric  cars,  is  truly  charming.  Some 
of  the  New  Jersey  party  went  out  by  street  car  lines  and 
returned  on  the  steam  cars,  keeping  nearer  the  coast  and 
passing  round  the  rocky  hinge  of  the  Golden  Gate.  The 
Cliff  House  is  a  large  hotel  built  upon  the  prejecting  rocks 
at  Point  Lobos.  The  waves  dash  in  spray  against  the  rocky 
foundation  of  this  much  frequented  resort. 

But  a  short  distance  out  in  the  ocean  are  the  celebrated 
Seal  Rocks,  consisting  of  a  few  immense  boulders  rising 
out  of  the  waters..  Many  sea  lions  are  seen  upon  these 
rocks,  basking  in  the  sun. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          83 

One  of  the  principal  points  of  interest,  which  every  visi 
tor  should  see,  is  the  Golden  Gate  Park.  But  a  few  years 
ago  the  site  of  this  beautiful  paradise  was  but  a  desert 
waste  of  sand.  Hundreds  of  acres  have  been  converted 
into  a  garden  where  flowers  bloom  the  year  around.  There 
are  picturesque  bridges,  waterfalls,  ponds,  fountains,  and 
parks  for  animals.  In  the  extensive  conservatory  are 
palms,  ferns,  orchids  and  other  tropical  plants.  A  mag 
nificent  observatory  on  Strawberry  Hill  gives  a  fine  view 
of  sea,  mountain  and  city.  Delightful  were  the  few  days 
spent  in  the  Convention  City  by  the  Golden  Gate. 
The  Golden  Gate,  itself,  is  a  fascinating  point  of 
interest.  It  is  a  mile  in  width,  through  which 
passes  much  of  the  commerce  of  the  Eastern  world. 
It  was  thus  most  appropriately  named,  in  the  days  gone 
by,  because  through  this  gateway  of  water,  vessels  passed 
laden  with  untold  wealth  of  gold  dust,  taken  from  the 
mines  of  the  country  bordering  upon  San  Francisco  bay. 


Monterey  and  fl?e  Big  Sprees. 


Doubtless  the  most  delightful  and  highly  appreciated,  as 
well  as  the  most  largely  patronized  of  all  the  San  Francisco 
side  trips,  was  the  one  to  Monterey,  Santa  Cruz  and  the 
Big  Trees. 

It  was  the  pleasure  of  the  writer  to  escort  a  party  of 
thirty-two  New  Jersey  people  on  this  trip.  Supplied  with 
an  order  from  the  manager  of  the  Monterey  division,which 
gave  us  special  rates,  we  assembled  at  the  Third  Street  Sta 
tion  in  time  for  the  9:15  train,  Saturday  morning,  July  10. 

After  a  pleasant  ride  of  about  an  hour,  we  reached  Palo 
Alto,  the  site  of  the  famous  Leland  Stanford,  Jr.,  Univer 
sity,  and  were  able  to  catch  glimpses  of  the  buildings  across 
a  beautiful  park  and  through  splendid  trees,  but  the  train 
speeds  on  and  we  turn  away  our  reluctant  eyes,  only  to  be 
surprised  and  delighted  by  the  sights  of  vast  orchards  of 
peaches,  pears,  plums,  apricots  and  other  fruits  that  thrive 
in  this  favored  region. 

We  did  not  need  to  be  told  we  were  nearing  San  Jose, 
situated  in  one  of  the  most  charming  and  fruitful  valleys  of 
the  world. 

As  the  train  stopped  a  few  moments  here,  one  of  the 
tourists  thought  it  a  good  thing  to  get  his  dinner.  Seating 
himself  placidly  at  the  dining  table,  he  was  quietly  enjoying 
his  soup,  but  at  the  same  time  keeping  watch  of  a  conduc 
tor  eating  nearest  him. 


86         NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

Some  good  spirit  prompted  him  to  say  facetiously  to 
the  conductor:  "No  danger  of  my  getting  left  while  you 
are  here."  "Where  are  you  going?"  was  the  response.  "To 
Del  Monte,"  he  replied.  Imagine  his  surprise  at  the  an 
swer:  "I  am  conductor  of  a  freight  train;  yonder  goes 
your  train."  And  turning  he  saw  it  slowly  leaving.  With 
haste  he  paid  for  his  dinner,  and  just  reached  the  rear  plat 
form.  Moral;  don't  keep  your  eye  on  the  conductor,  but 
on  your  train. 

The  heat  in  the  valley  was  greater  than  we  had  yet  ex 
perienced,  and  it  was  easy  to  tell  when  we  were  once  more 
approaching  the  ocean,  even  if  we  had  not  been  able  to 
see,  as  it  became  rapidly  cooler. 

A  most  welcome  sound  greeted  our  ears  about  i  P.  M. 
It  was  "Del  Monte!"  We  stepped  on  the  platform  and 
gazed  around  in  bewilderment.  The  undreamed  of  loveli 
ness  on  every  side,  reminded  one  of  what  must  have  been 
the  charm  of  that  perfect  garden  so  many  centuries  ago. 

Deciding  to  walk  to  the  hotel,  we  entered  a  winding  path 
leading  in  and  out  among  palms  and  trees  and  flowers.  We 
were  told  it  was  a  five  minute  walk  to  the  hotel,  but  no 
sign  of  it  could  be  seen.  Suddenly  as  we  make  a  quick 
turn,  straight  before  us  we  see  a  great  building  seemingly 
of  interminable  length,  with  numerous  wings  and  branches, 
until  one  could  scarcely  tell  where  it  began  or  ended. 

After  registering  we  passed  down  its  long,  winding  cor 
ridor  to  our  rooms.  The  dining  room  seats  500  guests. 
After  lunch  we  make  ready  for  the  famous  seventeen  mile 
drive;  now  lengthened  to  nineteen. 

For  a  mile  we  pass  through  a  winding,  shaded  drive, 
then  into  Old  Monterey,  bearing  on  every  side  traces  of  its 
Spanish  history.  Ancient,  antiquated  buildings,  dark 
eyed  maidens,  slow  moving  men. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          87 

Past  the  old  custom  house  and  whaling  station,  through 
Pacific  Grove,  on  by  the  Chinese  fishing  village,  and  then 
with  a  turn  we  are  in  the  heart  of  the  ancient  forests. 
Twisted  oaks  of  grotesque  form,  tall  towering  pines;  ver 
dant  and  ever  beautiful  cypress  trees,  and  hanging  mosses 
with  the  ever  varying  landscape,  now  a  climbing  hill,  now 
a  quiet,  sheltered  valley  and  sparkling  brook,  constitute  a 
scene  that  must  charm  the  memory  while  life  shall  last. 

As  easily  as  moves  the  fleecy  cloud,  so  come  we  by  gen 
tle  transition,  until,  without  warning,  but  yet  not  unex 
pectedly,  where  the  wide  sweep  of  water  proclaimed  the 
beautiful  Pacific.  On  its  shores  we  gathered  beautiful 
abalona  shells,  and  watched  the  sportive  sea  lion  playing 
among  the  tangled  sea  weed.  As  we  turn  homeward  by 
another  road,  we  pass  along  an  arm  of  the  sea,  after  a  steep 
climb.  On  our  left  may  be  seen  a  small  herd  of  buffalo, 
while  away  to  the  right  the  deep  blue  ocean  spreads  in 
sun  tinted  beauty,  only  to  be  lost  in  a  massive  bank  of  white 
clouds  and  vapor,  on  whose  crest  the  golden  light  of  the 
setting  sun  has  imprinted  a  rosy  kiss. 

Exclamations  of  delight  fall  from  every  lip. 

By  babbling  brooks,  up  high  hills,  down  steep  slopes, 
we  enter  once  more  Monterey,  passing  by  the  famous  and 
ancient  and  moss  covered  San  Carlos  Mission,  and  then  in 
the  gathering  twilight,  with  hearts  all  aglow  over  memor 
ies  of  the  world's  finest  drive,  we  are  ready  for  dinner  at 
Del  Monte.  I  might  tell  of  the  gem  of  the  lake  so  near 
the  hotel,  or  of  Arizona  Garden,  or  of  the  intricacies  of  the 
maze,  where  on  scarcely  a  half  acre  of  ground,  people  may 
be,  and  sometimes  are,  lost,  but  both  space  and  power  fail 
me. 

If  you  will  take  a  long  stride  with  me,  you  will  find  your 
self  in  the  quaint,  old  town  of  Santa  Cruz.  A  map  will 


88          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

show  you  the  town  of  Santa  Cruz,  situated  at  the  extreme 
southwestern  point  on  the  northern  coast  of  the  bay  of 
Monterey.  The  beach  on  the  south  or  bay  side,  calm  and 
peaceful,  that  on  the  west  or  ocean  side,  high,  rocky  and 
dangerous,  with  tumultous  waves  that  keep  thundering 
into  and  through  the  rocks  where  countless  ages  of  con 
stant  beating  have  worn  great  fissures  and  wide  tunnels. 

Though  the  air  is  calm,  yet  the  force  of  the  waves  often 
causes  the  very  rocks  to  tremble. 

Sabbath  evening  found  most  of  us  in  the  quiet  little  Con 
gregational  Church,  yielding  to  the  spirit  of  repose  and 
rest  and  worship. 

An  early  breakfast  and  a  dip  in  the  invigorating  but  icy 
waters  of  the  bay,  refreshed  several  of  those  who  had  the 
courage  to  attempt  such  things. 

It  is  no  marvel  to  me  now  that  most  people  patronize 
the  warm,  salt  water  baths  of  the  pavilions,  instead  of  the 
sea  itself. 

Nine-fifty  finds  us  on  the  narrow  gauge,  ready  for  our 
climb  of  seven  miles  to  the  big  trees.  Those  who  have  thus 
passed  up  the  San  Lorenzo  valley,  will  not  need  to  be 
reminded  of  the  deep  valley  far  below,  seen  through  the 
beautiful  foliage  of  stately  redwoods,  nor  of  the  hills  yet  far 
above  us,  nor  of  the  perfect  blending  of  hill  and  valley,  of 
tree  and  shrub  and  flower,  and  permeating  all  is  the  pure, 
clear  air  of  that  fair  land,  where  the  dreams  of  other  coun 
tries  are  real  and  tangible.  Soon  we  hear  the  brakeman's 
voice,  "Big  Tree  Grove."  No  second  call  is  needful.  Out 
of  the  car,  down  the  steps,  through  a  high  gate,  across  a 
wood  yard  we  go,  until  halted  by  the  shell  of  a  monstrous 
tree.  Within  its  cavernous  depths  fifty  people  can  stand. 
The  dream  of  our  childhood  is  realized;  we  have  seen  the 
big  trees.  After  ordering  dinner  for  thirty-two,  we  secure 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          89 

a  guide  and  proceed  to  make  the  tour  of  the  grounds.  The 
Monarch  attracts  our  attention,  then  the  Giant,  greatest  of 
all  the  single  trees  in  the  grove,  being  20  feet  in  diameter; 
but  space  forbids  my  saying  more  than  to  mention  the 
three  trees  90  feet  around  before  they  divide;  the  fallen  tree 
lying  undecayed  for  ages;  the  single  giants,  the  families 
of  colossal  brothers  and  sisters  must  be  omitted. 

Returning  to  the  dining  room  we  found  a  rapacious 
landlord  had  sold  our  dinner  to  late  comers,  and  we  could 
feast  on  nature's  marvels.  However,  it  is  not  good  to  eat 
over-much  when  travelling.  With  regret  we  leave  this 
grand  park  of  nature's  own  planting,  and  once  more  turn 
city  ward.  How  we  ridiculed  the  fairy  tales  of  cool  Cali 
fornia  as  we  ride  along  the  Los  Gato  valley,  with  the 
thermometer  more  than  100  in  the  shade.  Past  large  vine 
yards,  again  through  great  orchards,  once  more  through 
San  Jose,  then  to  Alameda  Mole,  and  at  last  our  three  day 
trip  ends  at  a  little  past  six  in  the  evening,  as  we  rush  sup- 
perless  to  Mechanic's  Pavilion  for  the  consecration  meet 
ing,  and  enjoyed  it  as  only  those  could  enjoy  it  whose 
thoughts  all  day  have  been  on  the  greatness  and  goodness 
of  God. 


In  the  heart  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  upon  the  crest  of 
the  continent,  covering  more  than  three  thousand  square 
miles  of  wooded  slopes  and  weird  plateaus,  is  Nature's 
wonderland,  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

How  lavishly  has  the  hand  of  the  Creator  bestowed  upon 
this  region  the  marvels  of  His  power.  We  stand  breath 
less  before  the  mighty  manifestations  of  His  majesty.  We 
are  amazed  at  the  diversity  of  the  phenomena.  Nature  in 
her  sterner  mood  holds  revel  here  in  steaming  springs  and 
gushing  geysers,  in  frowning  cliffs  and  thrilling  canons,  in 
rock-bound  lakes  and  rushing  rivers,  in  plunging  cataracts 
and  snow-clad  mountains;  yet  over  all,  she  casts  a  mantle 
of  her  choicest  blossoms,  among  which  the  fearless,  wild 
creatures  of  the  wood  innocently  sport. 

That  we  might  behold  these  wonders,  about  seventy  of 
our  New  Jersey  party  left  their  cars  one  afternoon  at  Cin 
nabar,  the  terminus  of  the  railroad  leading  to  the  Park, 
and  took  coaches  for  the  eagerly  anticipated  trip,  sched 
uled  to  include  five  and  a  half  days.  Tourists  are  driven  a 
certain  number  of  miles  each  day,  resting  over  night  at 
well-appointed  hotels,  nestling  in  the  midst  of  this  wild,  yet 
charming  scenery.  Pauses  are  made  for  lunch  at  con 
venient  stations,  and  at  all  points  of  particular  attraction. 
The  roads  are  constructed  by  the  government  and,  though 
often  winding  along  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  are  smooth 


92          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

and  safe.  Driving  at  an  altitude  exceeding  seven  thou 
sand  feet  is  an  exhilaration,  a  physical  and  mental  tonic. 
The  air  was  delightfully  cool,  but  strongly  alkaline.  An 
annoyance  scarcely  expected  to  have  been  encountered 
here  was  mosquitoes  of  larger  size  and  fiercer  bite  than 
the  much-berated  Jersey  nuisance.  Though  smarting 
under  their  warm  attentions,  yet  we  quite  rejoiced  that  our 
little  state  need  not  bear  the  reproach  of  being  their  only 
habitat,  but  that  it  shared  one  thing  in  common  with  this 
wondrous  mountain  land. 

A  drive  of  eight  miles  brought  us  to  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs,  where  ascending  clouds  of  steam  made  us  to  rea 
lize  that  we  had  entered  the  realm  of  the  thermal  king,  who 
poured  his  hot  breath  into  the  air.  Before  us  were  beau 
tiful  terraces,  rosy,  white  and  amber,  down  whose  corru 
gated  sides  trickled  the  warm  mineral  waters  from  over 
flowing  basins  above,  tier  upon  tier.  We  climbed  to  the 
summit  of  the  lime-formed  terraced  hill,  and  looked  down 
into  the  bubbling,  boiling  springs,  whose  circular  margins 
are  tinged  with  the  most  vivid  coloring. 

At  Fort  Yellowstone,  is  a  United  States  cavalry  post.  It 
is  the  duty  of  the  post  to  protect  the  Park  from  vandalism, 
to  see  that  no  formations  are  injured,  nor  specimens  removed, 
and  that  game  is  unmolested.  Soldiers  were  omnipresent. 
They  haunted  our  footsteps,  they  rode  by  our  side  mile 
after  mile;  they  galloped  up  in  the  most  unexpected  places. 
We  found  them  always  courteous,  but  we  could  not  escape 
the  consciousness  of  being  always  watched. 

After  a  night  at  the  comfortable  Mammoth  Hot  Springs 
Hotel  (fain  would  we  have  longer  tarried),  our  party 
filled  the  waiting  coaches,  each  drawn  by  four  sturdy 
horses,  and  dashed  southward.  Owing  to  the  unusual 
amount  of  travel  this  summer,  farmers  from  the  surround- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          93 

ing  country  had  been  impressed  into  the  Park  service,  con 
sequently  our  conveyances  were  not  all  of  the  conventional 
type.  This  diversity  added  a  spice  to  our  experience,  which 
the  participants  can  appreciate. 

One  of  the  most  picturesque  passes  is  Golden  Gate.  The 
Gardiner  River  forces  its  way  between  precipitous  rocky 
walls,  covered  in  patches  with  yellow  lichen.  Following 
the  course  of  the  winding  stream,  hewn  from  the  perpen 
dicular  cliff,  for  several  yards  suspended  over  the  current, 
is  constructed  the  wonderful  roadway.  Rustic  Falls,  leap 
ing  from  a  moss-covered  ledge,  adds  its  charm  to  the 
rugged  scene. 

Having  crossed  a  mountain  prairie,  hemmed  in  by  snow 
capped  peaks,  and  tasted  the  water  from  a  natural  apol- 
linaris  spring,  we  found  ourselves  beneath  the  bald  escarp 
ment  of  Obsidian  Cliff.  This  is  a  mineral  glass,  jet  black 
and  glistening.  The  road  here  is  said  to  have  been  made 
possible  by  building  large  fires  against  the  rocks  and  shat 
tering  them  by  dashing  cold  water  upon  the  heated  portion. 

At  Norris  Basin  we  stopped  for  lunch  with  the  volatile 
Larry  Mathews,  and  which  of  us  shall  forget  his  loquacity 
as  he  served  our  needs? 

There  we  had  our  first  view  of  a  geyser.  It  was  a  small 
one,  only  the  little  Constant,  having  an  interval  of  fifty 
seconds.  The  Black  Growler,  with  its  continuous  rumb 
ling  and  swift  emission  of  volumes  of  hot  vapor  from  its 
blackened  throat,  was  the  most  direct  messenger  we  had 
yet  seen  from  the  abode  of  the  heat  king.  The  Devil's 
Inkstand  exhibits  an  angry  ebullition  every  fifteen  minutes, 
and  then  subsides  far  down  a  dark  cleft.  The  Prince  of 
Evil  has  evidently  taken  up  extensive  claims  in  Yellow 
stone.  There  is  located  his  kitchen,  various  utensils  and 
parts  of  his  anatomy.  The  hot  expulsions  and  sulphurous 


94          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

fumes  are  certainly  suggestive  of  his  domain.  Escaping 
steam  hedges  the  pathway,  and  one  must  be  wary  that  he 
tread  not  in  treacherous  places. 

The  afternoon's  drive  led  us  near  Gibbon  Falls  and 
numerous  brilliantly  tinted  fuming  springs — sulphur,  emer 
ald,  sapphire  and  beryl.  During  the  day  we  had  passed 
through  four  July  snow  squalls — quite  a  unique  experience. 
Soon  after  fording  a  fork  of  the  Firehole  River,  we  drew  up 
at  the  Fountain  Hotel. 

Here  is  the  Fountain  Geyser,  and  not  far  away  the  Great 
Fountain.  Immediately  after  our  arrival,  we  witnessed  an 
eruption  of  the  latter.  During  a  period  of  twenty  minutes, 
amid  a  dense  shroud  of  steam,  volumes  of  water  were  again 
and  again  hurled  one  hundred  feet  in  mid-air.  Down  the 
smooth  terraced  basin  the  descending  deluge  poured,  and 
we  were  surrounded  by  it.  The  display  of  the  Fountain, 
though  not  exceeding  fifty  feet,  is  very  massive  and  grand. 

The  Mammoth  Paint  Pots  are  fascinating.  A  large 
basin  and  a  fringe  of  sun-baked  cones,  contain  exquisitely 
tinted  clay,  sluggishly  boiling.  Great  globular  bubbles 
burst  into  fragments,  and  smaller  ones  dance  in  curious 
forms  all  over  the  surface. 

Near  the  hotel,  we  saw  bears  from  the  forest  pillaging 
the  open  space  for  food. 

Two  nights  were  spent  at  the  Fountain.  During  the 
intervening  day  we  drove  to  the  middle  and  upper  geyser 
basins  and  returned.  At  the  former  are  located  the  Excel 
sior,  now  in  a  state  of  lethargy;  Turquois  Spring,  and 
Prismatic  Lake,  which  exhibits  from  its  margin  outward 
all  the  hues  of  the  rainbow. 

At  the  Upper  Basin,  within  an  area  scarcely  exceeding  a 
square  mile,  drained  by  the  Firehole  River,  are  the  might 
iest  geysers  of  the  world.  The  ground  is  covered  with  a 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          95 

grayish  white  deposit,  over  which  are  scattered  pools  and 
geyserite  cones,  some  several  feet  high.  There  is  the 
curious  Grotto, — well  named  indeed, — the  Giant,  the 
Giantess,  the  Beehive,  and  the  magnificent  Castle  with  its 
neighboring  well!  We  longed  to  see  them  play.  Some 
gratified  us,  others  disdainfully  refused.  We  turned  to  Old 
Faithful,  dear  reliable  geyser,  amid  so  many  erratic  ones. 
W"e  knew  when  to  expect  Old  Faithful;  he  never  disap 
points.  His  interval  is  now  seventy-four  minutes.  As 
the  time  approached,  the  steam  increased,  and  the  basin 
having  filled,  the  water  was  ejected  in  spasmodic  spurts. 
At  the  appointed  instant,  a  huge  watery  pillar  lifted  itself 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  and  stood  nearly  four  minutes 
throbbing  and  pulsing.  It  was  awful.  It  was  grand. 
After  it  had  subsided,  at  the  risk  of  a  foot  scalding  in  the 
bowl-like  depressions,  we  peered  down  its  rusty  throat; 
but  it  told  no  tale. 

At  will  we  wandered  for  hours  among  these  strange  out 
lets  of  the  subterranean  world.  The  Cascade,  Grotto, 
Economic,  Oblong  and  Riverside  were  in  action.  The 
Riverside,  attaining  a  height  of  one  hundred  feet,  spurts 
obliquely,  and  its  discharge  falls  directly  into  the  river. 
Many  are  the  pools  and  geysers,  each  with  a  particular 
charm!  Morning  Glory  Spring  is  a  perfect  gem.  How 
weird  it  all  is!  What  a  fierce  force  has  here  rifted  the 
earth  to  its  heated  core,  and  yet  keeps  open  the  channels 
of  communication  through  which  these  majestic  tokens  of 
the  power  below  are  being  hurled! 

Our  next  day's  drive  led  us  over  the  continental  divide, 

and  near  Keppler's  Cascades,  a  series  of  enchanting  falls. 

During  the  morning  a  beautiful    elk   with   uplifted  horns 

appeared  at  the  road-side,  and  stood  gazing  at  us  with  his 

7 


96          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

soft,  dark  eyes.  Hunting  being  forbidden,  the  shyest  crea 
ture  knows  no  fear.  Chipmunks  frisk  like  kittens  at  the 
forest's  edge. 

At  noon  we  reached  Yellowstone  Lake,  nearly  eight 
•  thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  closely  clasped  by  rugged 
mountains,  among  which  the  blue  waters  reach  their  shin 
ing  arms.  The  lake  is  swarming  with  trout.  Hot  Springs 
Cone,  a  few  yards  from  the  shore,  offers  peculiar  advant 
ages  to  the  fisherman.  It  is  a  flat  rock  with  a  boiling 
spring  in  the  centre.  Here  one  may  stand,  catch  a  fish, 
and  without  disengaging  it  from  the  hook,  plunge  it  into 
the  spring,  cooking  it  in  less  than  two  minutes. 

At  West  Thumb  Bay  our  party  .divided,  about  half  tak 
ing  boat  across  the  lake  to  the  hotel  at  the  outlet,  and  the 
remainder  driving  along  the  charming  shore. 

From  the  Lake  Hotel  next  morning,  we  followed  the 
Yellowstone  River  to  the  canon,  pausing  at  the  mud  vol 
cano.  What  a  hideous,  yet  fascinating  object  is  this! 
From  the  bottom  of  a  deep  mouth-like  crater,  with  over 
arching  lip,  is  belched  a  rumbling,  sickening  mass  of  lead- 
colored  mud.  The  force  not  being  sufficient  to  expel  the 
pasty  upheaval  beyond  the  outer  rim,  it  falls  back,  and  the 
monster  is  obliged  to  re-swallow  it. 

At  noon  we  came  to  the  canon.  We  paused  at  the  Up 
per  Falls  and  admired  their  graceful  beauty.  For  several 
hours  we  were  permitted  to  view  the  majesty  of  nature, 
grander  than  imagination  had  ever  pictured.  In  that  glor 
ious,  natural  temple,  speech  was  almost  sacrilege.  We 
stood  in  the  presence  of  God's  sublime  handiwork.  At  the 
brink  of  the  Lower  Falls,  the  fullness  of  view  was  first 
revealed.  The  river,  transparent  as  crystal,  in  an  instant 
powerfully  plunges  over  the  precipice  three  hundred  and 
sixty  feet.  It  descends  like  a  massive  drapery  in  long, 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.          97 

snow-white,  effervescent  folds.  It  leaps  against  the  rocks 
uelow,  and  is  shattered  into  the  most  ethereal  mist,  which 
catches  the  sun's  spectrum,  and  holds  it  poised. 

From  the  verge  of  the  narrowed,  foam-flecked  stream, 
rise  the  canon  walls  to  the  appalling  height  of  fifteen  hundred 
feet,  bristling  with  pinnacles,  obelisks  and  turrets,  some 
times  supported  by  gigantic  buttresses,  sometimes  thrust 
ing  out  sharp  ridges  of  rock,  and  again  sweeping  with  a 
clear,  smooth  slide  from  crest  to  base.  The  castles  along 
the  Rhine,  and  the  towering  cathedral  spires  find  here  their 
loftier  counterpart.  And  all  this  stupendous  mass 
God  has  touched  with  a  wealth  of  color  which 
defies  description.  Brilliant  yellows  predominate,  which 
merge  into  orange,  terra  cotta,  rose  and  crimson.  Dazzling 
white,  lavender  and  creamy  tints,  blend  with  the  richer 
hues.  Far  below  are  vivid  mosses  and  dark  evergreen 
forests  occasionally  push  themselves  part  way  down  the 
slopes.  So  glorious  is  the  scene  that  we  seem  to  be  standing 
at  the  portal  of  the  infinite.  As  we  passed  from  point  to 
point  of  observation  upon  the  ledge,  lingering  upon 
far-jutting  crags  in  the  heart  of  this  mystery  of  beauty,  at 
times  gazing  full  in  the  face  of  the  shimmering  falls,  each 
moment  beholding  a  vision  of  more  overpowering  sub 
limity,  the  nobler  emotions  of  every  soul  must  have  been 
deepened,  and  we  felt  that  it  was  good  to  be  there. 

On  the  summits  of  sharp  shafts  below,  the  eagles  built 
their  nests.  We  could  see  the  young  within,  and  the  par 
ent  birds  winging  their  flight  across  the  chasm. 

Reluctantly  we  took  the  long,  last  look;  but  the  exalted 
moments  of  life  are  not  abiding,  and  one  must  descend  to 
the  commonplace,  better  for  having  received  the  brief 
inspiration. 

That  evening  we  held  our  wonted  Christian  Endeavor 


98          NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

service  in  the  hotel,  and  hearts  voiced  the  praise  of  God. 
To  these  services,  men  who  rarely,  if  ever,  had  attended 
religious  worship;  hotel  attendants,  drivers  and  soldiers, 
listened  with  curiosity  and  interest. 

The  following  was  our  last  day  in  the  Park.  We 
returned  to  Cinnabar  via  Virginia  Cascades,  Norris,  and 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  having  completed  a  circuit  of 
nearly  two  hundred  miles. 

Our  trip  into  Wonderland  had  drawn  to  a  close,  but  it 
has  been  an  epoch  in  our  lives ;  it  has  become  a  part  of  our 
being;  its  impress  upon  us  will  never  be  effaced. 


It  is  safe  to  say,  without  boasting  or  exaggeration,  that 
no  C.  E.  delegates  had  a  finer  train  to  San  Francisco,  than 
that  which  carried  the  New  Jersey  Endeavorers  and  their 
friends.  At  many  stations  over  the  various  railroads  this 
was  said  by  railroad  men  who  were  competent  to  judge. 
The  Pullman  Palace  Car  Company  were  very  considerate 
of  the  wishes  and  requests  of  the  New  Jersey  management 
and  gave  them  the  very  best  service  possible.  Especially 
was  this  so  with  the  conductors  and  porters  who  were  the 
very  best  in  the  Pullman  Company. 

It  was  the  intention  of  the  Transportation  Committee  to 
run  only  one  special  train,  but  so  many  applications  for  the 
transcontinental  journey  were  received,  that  two  full  trains 
of  seven  palace  cars  attached,  were  needed  to  carry  the 
Endeavorers  to  California.  And  even  then  one  hundred 
and  thirty-six  people  were  left  at  home  simply  because  of 
lack  of  room,  the  committee  not  being  willing  to  take 
the  responsibility  and  care  of  a  third  special  train.  In  all, 
four  hundred  and  eight-one  persons  were  carried  to  San 
Francisco  by  the  New  Jersey  C.  E.  Special  in  its  two  sec 
tions.  This  does  not  include  the  train  crew  or  conductors 
and  porters.  There  were  four  hunlred  and  eighty-one  per 
sons  who  had  tickets.  Not  even  the  Transportation  Man 
ager  was  allowed  to  ride  free.  The  first  section  had  the 
cars  Nadura,  Hebrides,  Sydenham,  Superb,  Saale,  Alsace 
and  Canton. 


ioo        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

In  the  second  section  were  the  cars  Burton,  Utrecht, 
Epsom,  Proteus,  Keystone,  Dorante  and  New  Hampshire. 

On  the  trip  a  catalogue  of  the  party  was  published,  which 
was  necessarily  very  incomplete.  It  has  been  the  desire 
and  aim  of  the  committee  to  gather  up  the  interesting 
things  that  transpired  in  each  car  on  the  journey,  and  at 
tach  the  names  of  the  members  of  each  car  to  the  article. 
It  has  been  very  difficult  to  get  such  articles,  and  more  dif 
ficult  to  get  the  names  of  individuals  in  each  car,  as  all  the 
original  diagrams  have  been  lost.  But  the  most  active  and 
faithful  efforts  have  produced  the  results  that  follow. 


This  musical  name,  although  it  belongs  to  only  a  Pull 
man  car,  is  surrounded  by  very  pleasant  associations  to  the 
company  of  about  forty  people,  who  spent  many  days  and 
nights  under  one  sheltering  roof.  There,  as  the  days 
passed,  we  learned  to  overlook  the  faults  and  see  the  best 
traits  in  one  another's  characters,  more  and  more,  till  we 
decided  among  ourselves  that  ours  was  the  most  agreeable 
car  on  the  train. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  journey  Nadura  occupied,  appro 
priately,  the  first  position  on  the  train.  But  at  St.  Louis, 
where  we  backed  out  of  the  depot,  like  the  boy  in  the  spell 
ing  match,  she  had  to  "go  down  foot."  This  was  at  first 
considered  unfortunate  by  some,  but  we  soon  found  the 
absence  of  coal  dust  and  the  possession  of  a  rear  platform 
more  than  made  amends  for  extra  rocking.  The  rear  plat 
form  became  a  favorite  resort  for  viewing  the  scenery,  and 
when  we  passed  through  the  Royal  Gorge,  probably  fifteen 
of  our  number  were  packed  on  the  platform  and  steps,  en 
joying  the  sight. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         101 

Always  next  to  Nadura,  before  or  behind,  came  Hebrides 
(pronounced  He-brides).  This  being  the  ladies'  car,  an 
interesting  feud  soon  arose  and  raged  more  or  less  vio 
lently  throughout  the  journey.  The  Hebrides  having 
made  a  rule  that  passage  through  that  car  after  certain 
hours  was  prohibited,  it  became  clearly  the  duty  of  the 
Nadura  gentlemen  to  go  through  as  often  as  possible.  This 
culminated,  after  leaving  San  Francisco,  in  the  great  Bat 
tle  of  He-brides,  spoken  of  elsewhere. 

Nadura  was,  doubtless,  the  only  car  having  a  bride, 
bridegroom,  and  the  minister  who  married  them,  all  in 
one  section.  As  we  were  provided  with  a  physician,  it  was 
deemed  best  to  take  an  undertaker  also,  although  the  lat 
ter,  fortunately,  found  no  professional  use  for  his  talents. 

When  we  were  in  need  of  refreshments  we  had  "Water 
melon,"  and  lest  we  become  too  frivolous,  "Calamity"  dwelt 
among  us.  Most  of  the  company  were  provided  with  nick 
names,  but  we  forbear  to  harrow  their  feelings  by  a  public 
announcement.  The  "Sportive  elf"  in  No.  I  did  much  to 
enliven  the  time,  while  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  man  who 
feared  we  should  miss  the  scenery  of  Pittsburgh,  at  an 
unseemly  hour  in  the  morning,  will  get  his  reward  on  earth. 

Although  Nadura  had  no  organized  band  to  go  about 
serenading  with  combs,  yet  there  was  a  great  deal  of  un 
appreciated  musical  talent  lying  unheeded,  perhaps,  during 
the  daytime.  But  to  one  awakening  in  the  very  early 
morning  hours,  at  the  time  when  the  birds  in  the  woods 
give  their  opening  concert,  what  a  revelation!  From  near 
the  rear  door,  from  the  upper  berth  of  No.  8,  from  the  ves 
tibule  and  various  invisible  sources,  poured  forth  a  sno- 
raphic  chorus,  certainly  unrivaled,  and  that,  properly 
trained,  might  win  lasting  laurels  for  Nadura. 

Endeavor    meetings    were    held  frequently,    usually    at 


102        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

twilight,     and     the     singing,      too,      was     a     source     of 
pleasure. 

Throughout  the  journey  Nadura  was  the  abiding  place 
of  a  company  of  people,  friendly,  courteous  and  congenial 
(except  on  the  subject  of  early  rising)  and  all  will  place  the 
many  enjoyable  experiences  here  among  the  choice  "Pic 
tures  that  hang  on  Memory's  Wall." 

Adams,  Annie  M.,  Atlantic  City.  Koehler,  Andrew  Gr.,  Somerville. 

Adams,  Carrie  E.,  Atlantic  City.  Lawshe,  David.  Trenton. 

Aumack,  Gr.,  Keyport.  Leuly,  Emil,  Hoboken. 

Bell,  E.  S.,  Atlantic  City.  Mattison,  Mrs.  Jennie  E.,  Newark. 

Bell,  Mrs.  E.  S.,  Atlantic  City.  Mulf ord,  Fannie,  Millville. 

Clark,  Aaron  L.,  Bridgeton.  Murray,  Miss  M.,  King  of  Prussia,  Pa. 

Compton,  Charles  W.,  Newark.  Owens,  Mrs.  Wesley  R.,  Trenton. 

Cosman,  Miss  M.  A.,  Vineland.  Page,  Mrs.  C.,  Newark. 

Currey,  Miss,  Weehawken.  Painter,  Annie,  New  Brunswick. 

Currey,  Miss  J.  S.,  Weehawken.  Palmer,  Mrs.  Imogene,  Atlantic  City. 

Cummins,  R.,  Washington.  Roe,  H.  Estelle,  Rutherford. 

Dalrymple,  Aaron,  Washington.  Robinson,  William  T.,  Freehold. 

Dawes,  Theodore  B.,  Washington.  Rumbarger,  Miss  M.,  Atlantic  City. 

Dawes,  Mrs.  Theodore  B.,  Washington.  Smith,  Elizabeth  J.,  Branchville. 

Davis,  W.  H.,  M.  D.,  East  Orange.  Stegeman,  John  F.,  Newark. 

Duerkes,  Miss,  Weehawken.  Sinkinson,  Rev.  C.  D.,  Atlantic  City. 

Exton,  Emma,  Trenton.  Terhune,    Rev,   J.    A.,   Hughsonville, 

Fitzer,  J.  R.,  Salem.  N.  Y. 

Gaskill,  Florence,  Mt.  Holly.  Terhune,    Mrs.  J.    A.,    Hughsonville* 

Graff,  Lewis  E.,  Haddonfleld.  N.  Y. 

Hoagland,  Rev.  Charles  H.,  Asbury.  Thompson,  William  W.,  Freehold. 

Hendrick,  Miss  S.  E.,  Newark,  Weller,  Lizzie,  Washington. 

Irving,  Rev.  D.  O.,  East  Orange.  Wright,  Mrs.  Mary  E.,  Atlantic  City. 

Kaighn,  Richard  C.,  Ellisburg. 


The  Hebrides  was  inhabited  by  forty-six  ladies,  some 
young,  some  old,  some  "fair,  fat  and  forty;"  all  peace-lov 
ing;  no  jars  (except  pickle  jars)  but  perfect  harmony.  One 
lady  on  being  told  that  she  would  travel  in  this  car,  said: 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        103 

*'The  idea  of  being  all  that  time  with  a  lot  of  women — all 
cranks."  Now,  she  is  one  of  the  loudest  in  praise  of  the 
life  among  them.  Another  declared  the  millenium 
had  come,  or  it  would  have  been  impossible  for  so  many 
women  to  live  in  such  peace  for  twenty  days. 

The  days  were  spent  in  viewing  the  magnificent  scenery, 
comparing  notes,  giving  impromptu  entertainments  and 
luncheons,  and  last,  but  in  no  wise  least,  writing  poetry.  A 
paper  called  "The  Hebrides  Herald"  was  edited,  showing 
up  the  conduct  of  certain  men  from  neighboring  cars. 
These  men  affected  the  fear  of  entering  the  "He-brides," 
as  they  were  fond  of  calling  our  home,  but  in  reality,  noth 
ing  pleased  them  better  than  to  come  in  and  share  our  good 
times;  the  fame  of  which  had  spread  through  the  whole 
train. 

The  crowning  hour,  however,  was  when  the  curtains  of 
night  were  slowly  gathering.  The  desperate  efforts  of  our 
porter  to  "make  down"  the  beds,  the  untiring  "cake  walk" 
from  berth  to  dressing  room,  to  and  fro,  the  screams  and 
scrambles  following  the  warning  cry,  "Man  coming,"  the 
struggles  with  the  stepladder,  and  the  sighs  of  those  who 
mounted  them,  the  sorrows  of  hair-dressing,  and  the  innate 
perniciousness  of  hair-pins,  the  swaying  car  and  the  plung 
ing  bags,  all  combined  to  produce  a  scene  unrivaled,  except 
by  the  "streets  of  Cairo." 

After  a  succession  of  these  day  and  night  scenes,  the  last 
•day  came — that  day — especially  freighted  with  pleasant 
memories.  Many  expressions  of  good  will  and  congratu 
lations  on  being  a  "He-bride,"  greeted  us  on  every  side, 
and  we  left  our  associates  with  the  hope  that  each  had  made 
a  little  "sunshine"  along  our  route  to  the  "Golden  Gate" 
and  return. 


104        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 


Bross,  Mrs.  S.  B.,  Newark. 
Bross,  Marion,  Newark. 
Benche,  Anna  S  ,  Hyde  Park. 
Bauer,  A.  Mame,  Jersey  City. 
Brown,  M.  Florence,  Newark. 
Borden,  Rachel  B.,  Monroeville. 
Borden,  Fannie  C.,  Jasobstown, 
Bradley,  Mary  I.,  Lee,  Mass. 
Catlin,  Sarah  F.,  Brooklyn. 
Catlin,  Miss  H.  A.,  Brooklyn. 
Coe,  Jessie  D.,  Nutley. 
Crissman,  Ellen  G.,  Branchville. 
Crissman,  Mattie,  Branchville. 
Oondit,  Mrs.  M.  B.,  Orange  Valley. 
Coe,  Caroline  M.,  Newark. 
Craig,  Mrs.  R.  F.,  New  Germantown. 
Durling,  Josie,  Hackettstown. 
Ennis,  Mrs.  E.  B.,  Newark. 
Fisher,  Betty,  Jersey  City. 
Hammond,  Julia  M.,  Closter. 
Hoyt,  Juliette  M,,  Hoboken. 
Lutz,  Rose,  Trenton. 
Lutz,  Elizabeth,  Trenton. 


Martin,  Annie  E.,  Newark. 
McKenzie,  Annie  D..  Newark. 
Mac  Morran,  Margaret,  Newark. 
McGarrah.  Grace  A.,  Brooklyn. 
McGarrah,  Agatha,  Brooklyn. 
Moore,  Mrs.  S.  E.,  Freehold. 
Moore,  Estelle  M.,  Freehold. 
Moore,  Mrs.  M.,  Jersey  City. 
Nicholson,  Belle.  Califon. 
Platt,  Sarah  E..  Red  Bank. 
Precht,  Louisa,  Trenton. 
Park,  Ada  A.,  Jersey  City. 
Runyon,  Sarah  DeM.,  Millington. 
Smith,  Ida  E.,  Newark. 
Trimmer,  M.  Mildred,  Middle  Valley. 
Tomlinson,  Cora,  Plainfleld. 
Van  Alen,  M.  Freda,  Heath,  N.  Y. 
Van  Kirk,  Lizzie,  Griggstown, 
Valentine,  Mrs.  Seth,  Newark. 
Van  Cleef,  Mabel,  Newark. 
Woodruff,  Hannah  H.,  Bridgeton, 
Woolman,  Helen  R.,  Newark. 
Wade,  Margaret  I.,  Irvington. 


My  Dear  Sue. — Of  course  you  are  anxious  to  hear  of  our 
wonderful  trip,  and  I  will  have  to  begin  by  describing  our 
"Apartment  House."  The  Sydenham  is  one  of  the  most 
elegantly  appointed  and  exclusive  apartment  houses.  No 
baggage  is  allowed  to  stand  in  its  corridors,  and  its  janitor 
and  head  steward,  Ben  by  name,  took  special  delight  in. 
keeping  it  always  clean  and  bright,  and  was  ever  careful 
and  watchful  of  his  own. 

One  day  a  porter  from  a  nearby  hotel,  "The  Superb," 
wishing  to  find  Ben,  rang  the  call  bell  of  No.  6  in  a  very 
energetic  and  persistent  manner;  when  Ben  appeared,  he 
remarked,  in  a  very  unconcerned  way:  "I  knew  that  wasn't 
any  white  ring."  Our  flats,  all  delightful  for  location,  were 
only  rented  to  small  families,  and  we  proved  a  most  con- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        105 

genial  household.  The  proprietor  and  general  manager, 
Rev.  T.  E.  Davis  and  wife  occupied  a  central  one,  and  very 
often  Mr.  D.  insisted  on  going  to  another  for  his  own.  They 
sometimes  took  boarders,  but  owing  to  the  office  being 
there,  and  people  constantly  wanting  to  see  him  on  all  sorts 
of  business,  they  were  rather  crowded  at  times.  You  know 
those  nice  people,  the  Dyott's?  Well,  for  a  time  they  had 
to  be  separated,  and  lodged  in  different  flats,  till  one  was 
vacated,  when  they  took  possession. 

We  had  a  home  restaurant  and  lunch  room  in  No.  5,  kept 
by  the  Batemans,  who  were  most  obliging  sort  of  people 
and  set  a  fine  table.  Two  ladies  from  No.  I  took  their 
meals  with  them,  but  had  our  trip  lasted  much  longer, 
doubtless  they  would  have  had  to  provide  meals  at  home, 
as  they  had  a  couple  of  very  attentive  visitors, — one  being 
a  foxy  sort  of  chap,  it  was  hard  to  know  just  what  he  did 
want,  but  Miss  Ribble  knows  he  likes  buttermilk;  the  other 
apparently  is  very  fond  of  the  good  things  of  life,  but  a  cer 
tain  young  lady  may  prefer  DuBois  to  avoirdupois. 

The  ladies  in  No.  3,  each  owned  a  "blickie,"  and  hailed 
with  delight  the  sight  of  a  cow,  or  "Pure  Milk  for  Sale."  A 
milk  diet  certainly  agrees  with  Miss  Porter.  The  flat  occu 
pied  by  the  Harris  family  had  a  reception  room  and  pri 
vate  balcony;  they  were  wise  in  their  choice,  else  Miss  Ber 
tie  never  could  have  entertained  her  numerous  admirers, 
still  the  poor  girl  had  the  bad  luck  to  lose  a  bran  new  sailor 
hat,  just  when  it  was  impossible  for  one  or  all  to  give  chase. 
As  a  rule,  we  were  very  quiet  and  decorous  after  the  lights 
were  low,  but  sometimes  the  ladies  in  Flat  E  were  dis 
turbed  by  most  "payneful"  snores. 

On  our  journey  we  came  nigh  unto  a  village  called  Heb 
rides,  absolutely  under  petticoat  government,  with  the  one 
exception  of  the  "Board  of  Public  Works."  As  we  were 


ro6        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

near  to  them  some  little  time;  they,  wishing  to  be  friendly 
and  acquaint  us  with  the  doings  of  the  inhabitants,  sent  us 
a  copy  of  their  "Herald,"  giving  full  particulars  of  a  recent 
midnight  raid  on  the  poor  lone  females.  Appreciating  their 
kind  friendliness,  three  of  our  bright  minds  were  appointed 
to  draw  up  and  send  these  Hebrides  a  fitting  set  of  resolu 
tions,  which  was  done  with  all  proper  form  and  ceremony. 
Then  knowing  the  ability  of  our  household  and  recogniz 
ing  the  fact  that  a  great  deal  of  musical  talent  was  wasting 
its  sweetness  on  the  desert  air,  we  engaged,  as  leader,  Sig- 
nor  Dungan,  and  formed  the  new  popular  comb  orchestra. 
Who  knows?  you  may  hear  us  East  this  Winter.  First 
we  gave  a  concert  to  our  friends,  the  Hebrides,  thereby 
gaining  local  reputation,  so  that  we  had  to  make  a  tour  of 
the  neighboring  towns.  Where  we  could  be  appreciated, 
we  were  received  with  joy  and  gladness,  but  one  evening, 
arrayed  in  fitting  (?)  white  garments,  we  travelled  to  a  re 
mote  village,  only  to  find  on  our  way  home  the  gates  of 
another  town,  through  which  we  had  to  pass,  locked 
against  us.  They  must  have  been  frightened  at  our  very 
appearance,  for  women  rose  screaming  from  their  beds, 
the  life  of  our  leader  was  threatened,  and  we  were  glad  to 
reach  the  Sydenham  in  safety. 

Quite  a  different  experience  was  that  of  Mt.  Siskiyou,  on 
July  I4th,  when  some  of  us  were  presented  with  bouquets 
of  beautiful  flowers,  and  twisted  among  the  stems,  some 
found  addresses,  or  a  tender  billetdoux  from  their  Mt. 
gallants. 

"Live  and  Learn" — At  Colorado  Springs  one  of  our 
number,  a  Mrs.  Wood  from  New  bubrgh,  N.  Y.,  was  taught 
the  difference  between  pennies  and  nickels.  She  paid  her 
trolley  fare  in  pennies,  and  was  amazed  to  see  the  conductor, 
after  looking  contemptuously  at  them  a  minute,  throw  them 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        107 

against  the  stones  by  the  wayside,  remarking  as  he  did  so: 
"I  never  take  such  stuff."  On  the  afternoon  of  July  22,  our 
large  assembly  room  was  full  to  overflowing  with  the 
Snides  and  their  guests,  to  listen  to  Miss  Catlin,  the  fa 
mous  elocutionist  of  Morristown,  N.  J.  She  gave  a  most 
pleasing  entertainment,  and  was  followed  by  the  talented 
minstrel  Harvey,  who  sang  for  us. 

I've  written  yards  already  and  must  stop,  but  I  wish  I 
had  time  to  tell  you  of  the  meetings  we  attended  along  the 
route,  for  the  Sydenham  was  always  well  represented;  of 
the  wheel  Miss  Voorhees  borrowed  without  permission  of 
the  owner,  and  her  painful  reflections  the  next  day;  of  the 
uneasy  slumbers  of  some  of  our  people  that  last  night,  all 
on  account  of  the  cracker  crumbs,  feather  dusters,  dust 
pans,  etc.,  being  in  beds,  and  stockings,  instead  of  in  their 
proper  places,  and  of  others  of  our  household  who  enjoyed 
the  trip,  but  have  not  become  famous  thereby,  but  I  must 
close.  Very  Sincerely.  M. 

Bateman,  C.  H  ,  Somerville.  Hickman,  Mary  B.,  Bound  Brook. 

Baieman,  Mrs.  C.  H.,  Somerville.  Leigh,  Mabel,  Somerville. 

Conover,  Mrs.  A.  EM  Asbury  Park.  Osborn,  Laura,  Peekskill,  N.  Y. 

Cook,  Jessie  M.,  Bound  Brook.  Payne,  H.  G.,  Red  Bank. 

Davis.  Rev.  T.  E.,  Bound  Bro«k.  Payne,  Mrs,  H.  G.,  Red  Bank. 

Davis,  Mrs.  T.  E.,  Bound  Brook.  Porter,  Amelia,  Somerville. 

Dorsett,  Edna,  Yonkers,  N.  Y.  Ribble,  Anna  O.,  East  Millstone. 

DuBois,  Mary  E.,  Freehold.  Rockafellow,  Alice,  Bound  Brook. 

Dunham,  Elfleda  M.,  Bound  Brook.  Rogers,  Josie  A.,  New  Brunswick. 

Dyott,  Rev.  L.  R.,  Newark.  Smock,  Mrs.  R.  P..  Asbury  Park. 

Dyott,  Mrs.  L.  R.,  Newark.  Tappen,  Addie,  Bound  Brook. 

Egbert,  Rose  M.,  Nyack,  N.  Y.  Voorhees,  Ada  G.,  Somerville. 

Harris,  Henrietta  T.,  Belvidere.  White,  Elizabeth,  Passaic. 

Harris,  Roberta  R.,  Belvidere.  Wood,  Mrs.  Sarah  S.,  Newburg.  N.  Y, 

Superb. 

There  is  one  morning  in  the  year  ninety-seven  indelibly 
stamped  on  the  memories  of  the  four  hundred  and  eighty- 


io8        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

one,  who  began  their  trip  across  the  continent,  not  the  dark 
continent  but  our  own  surprisingly  new,  bright  and  won 
derful. 

The  only  drawing  room  car  on  the  train  was  the  Superb. 
The  six  cosy  little  parlors  were  taken  possession  of  by 
twenty-one  persons.  Being  occupants  of  drawing  rooms, 
we  were  sympathized  with  as  being  "not  in  it,"  with  the  fun 
and  good  times  elsewhere.  Although  it  may  have  appeared 
that  we  were  shut  off  from  most  of  the  fun  prevailing;  we 
feel  that  the  "Superb"-ers  had  the  "cream"  of  the  good 
time,  and  our  best  wish  for  all  is  that  they  may  cross  the 
continent  in  the  car  "Superb." 

We  left  Jersey  City  bright  as  the  day  itself,  and  from  the 
moment  of  starting,  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  our  own  coun 
try's  flag  waved  in  our  room. 

Oh,  how  we  flew,  from  the  far  East  to  the  far  West,  dip 
ping  a  little  to  the  south,  and  touching  the  extreme  north 
of  the  States. 

As  we  travelled  farther  away  from  New  Jersey,  we  be 
came  more  neighborly  with  each  other,  and  before  many 
hours  had  passed,  were  as  one  large  family.  What  delight 
ful  times  we  had  at  our  "Afternoon  Tea"  and  "Luncheon," 
when  we  could  entertain  our  friends  in  our  own  room,  and 
there  enjoy  ourselves  undisturbed. 

One,  who  proved  himself  in  many  ways  very  necessary 
to  the  comfort  of  the  twenty-one,  our  jolly,  good  natured,  fun 
loving  porter,  George,  will  never  be  forgotten.  "The  key 
to  a  man's  heart  is  through  his  stomach,"  and  we  were 
often  sad,  being  truly  hungry.  Then  George  would  gravely 
state  that  the  next  station  would  be  need-more,  and  advise 
us  to  lay  in  a  supply  of  tomatoes  that  we  might  catch-up, 
(we  were  then  something  short  of  a  day  behind  schedule 
time.) 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        109 

When  food  seemed  an  impossibility,  George  and  his 
friend,  Ben,  anticipating  the  wants  of  the  party,  supplied  all 
who  wished  with  refreshing  lemonade,  and  even  hot  tea 
and  coffee.  One  day  when  business  was  at  its  best,  and 
George  was  doing  his  utmost  to  supply  everyone,  on  reach 
ing  his  "kitchen,"  what  did  he  see  tied  to  the  door-knob, 
but  a  dead  chicken.  Oh,  what  a  shout  was  heard,  for  the 
unfortunate  chicken  had  met  its  fate  many  days  before, 
and,  as  George  said,  "Not  even  saltpeter  could  bring  it 
back."  This  was  a  grave,  solemn  joke,  having  been  per 
formed  by  the  clergy  to  the  sacrifice  of  their  high  (?)  col 
lars  and  sober  (?)  influence.  Ever  after,  this  portion  of  the 
car  was  known  as  "George's  Buffet." 

Before  reaching  Salt  Lake  City,  we  were  advised  to  lay 
in  a  supply  of  provisions,  and  this  we  all  did  while  with  the 
hospitable  Mormons.  Some  of  our  companions  acted 
upon  the  suggestion  so  well  that  they  purchased,  not  only 
food,  but  chafing  dish,  knives,  forks,  etc.,  and  were  pre 
pared  for  the  very  worst.  The  "very  worst"  never  came, 
however,  and  how  sumptuously  these  friends  dined  on  friz 
zled  beef,  (cooked  with  condensed  milk),  fried  eggs,  fresh 
salmon  and  many  more  luxurious  "tasties." 

One  of  our  most  delightful  memories,  and  one  that  we 
will  recall  often,  was  the  first  Sunday  afternoon  of  train 
life.  (We  were  compelled  to  travel  this  Sunday.)  How 
we  enjoyed  our  Sunday  School  class  of  nine  members,  and 
how  kindly  and  graciously  we  were  met  at  three 
o'clock  by  our  teacher,  Rev.  Mr.  Ottman,  in  his  drawing 
room.  We  shall  never  forget  our  lesson  of  that  day,  and 
our  hour  was  very  short.  It  passed  more  quickly  than  any 
other  of  train  life,  and  was  brimful  of  "helps,"  not  only  for 
train  life,  but  for  our  world  life. 

It  was  impossible  to  have  any  of  the  prayer  meetings  in 


no        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

the  "Superb,"  but  we  were  always  invited  to  attend  the 
meetings  in  the  neighboring  cars,  and  accepted  all  such 
invitations  with  genuine  pleasure. 

Our  trip  from  beginning  to  end  was  of  solid  comfort  and 
enjoyment,  and  all  of  the  "Superb"-ers  enjoyed  good  health 
but  one,  and  to  him  every  one  felt  drawn,  and  missed  him 
sadly  during  the  days  he  was  confined  to  his  bed,  and  how 
everyone  from  all  parts  of  the  train,  rejoiced  when  he  was 
able  to  be  with  us  again. 

What  a  glorious  trip  we  had;  how  we  enjoyed  being  to 
gether,  and  how  we  all  hope  to  meet  again. 

As  we  journeyed  toward  San  Francisco,  and  again  when 
homeward  bound,  we  felt  more  than  can  be  expressed.  We 
were  awed  and  silenced  by  the  wonderful  beauties  of  our 
own  country,  and,  in  the  words  of  our  own  countryman^, 
wish  to  sing: 

"O,  beautiful  and  grand, 
My  own,  my  native  land! 
Of  thee  I  boast; 
Great  Empire  of  the  West, 
The  dearest  and  the  best, 
Made  up  of  all  the  rest, 
I  love  thee  most." 

Americanism  fastens  us  together  in  loyalty,  while  we  feel 
more  closely  drawn  to  each  other  by  the  blest 

"Tie  that  bind, 

Our  hearts  in  mutual  love." 

And  feel  individually  the  truth  of  Rev.  4:11.  "Thou  art 
worthy,  O  Lord,  to  receive  glory  and  honor  and  power; 
for  thou  hast  created  all  things,  and  for  Thy  pleasure  they- 
are  and  were  created." 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         in 

Now  parted  from  one  another,  we  feel  more  able  than 
ever  before,  to  sing,  (as  we  did  that  eventful  day  on  Mar 
shall  Pass), 

"Praise  God  from  whom  all  blessings  flow, 
Praise  Him,  all  creatures  here  below; 
Praise  Him  above,  ye  heavenly  host; 
Praise  Father,  Son  and  Holy  Ghost." 

Aumack,  Theodore,  Freehold.  Kirk,  Mrs.  Rachel,  Newark. 

Anmack,  Mrs.  Theodore,  Freehold.  Monroe,  Miss  M.  L.,  Southport,  Conn. 

Barnett,  Joanna  GK,  Newark.  Newkirk,  Mrs.  Margaret,  Brooklyn. 

Chapman,  D.  D.,  Rev.  J.W.,  Phila.  Ottman,  Rev.  Ford  C.,  Newark. 

Dey,  Lurena,  Newark.  Shepnerd,  C.  L.,  Freehold, 

Duncan,  Lucy  G.,  Newark.  Shepherd,  Mrs.  C.  L.,  Freehold, 

Kennard,  Jessie  A.,  Brooklyn.  Taylor,  Mrs.  W,  H.,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Ketcham,  Alice  E.,  Hoboken,  Taylor,  Elizabeth  M.,  Charleston,  S.  C. 

Ketcham,  Edith  A.,  Hoboken.  Valentine,  Mrs.  E.  B.,  Brooklyn. 

Keasbey,  Edward,  Pertn  Amboy.  Wrigley,  Jennie,  Newark. 
Keasbey,  Mrs.  Edward,  Perth  Amboy. 


I  am  a  comfortable,  well-built  Pullman  par,  and  though  I 
boast  no  state  rooms,  I  offer  pleasant  accommodations. 

When  I  was  attached  to  the  New  Jersey  Special,  I  found 
myself  filled  with  people  who  were  anticipating  Yellow 
stone  Park.  They  were  genial  people  of  all  ages;  not  many 
Endeavorers.  William,  my  stalwart  porter,  always  kept 
me  in  good  order. 

It  was  a  source  of  amusement  to  hear  the  discussions 
concerning  the  pronunciation  of  my  name.  Commonly,  I 
was  called  Sally. 

Everything  flowed  smoothly  until  the  night  we  lay  at 

Manitou.     Well  do  I  remember  the  excitement  which  there 

stirred  by  occupants,  when  five    tickets   for    Pike's    Peak 

were  brought  in  to  satisfy  fourteen  claimants.     Waves   of 

8 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

disappointment  selfishness  and  renunciation,  swept  over  me 
from  end  to  end. 

On  Sunday  morning  in  Utah,  I  listened  to  Mr.  Chap 
man's  sweet  words,  and  Christian  Endeavor  services  were 
frequently  held  within  my  walls. 

Starting  on  my  return  trip  from  California,  I  missed 
many  familiar  faces,  among  them  two  cordial  committee- 
men  and  my  portly  friend  from  the  smoker.  New  ones, 
however,  filled  the  vacancies,  and  they  formed  a  pleasant 
company. 

There  were  one  or  two  flirtations,  or  serious  attachments, 
(who  can  tell?)  that  I  watched  with  interest. 

At  Portland,  I  found  myself  alone  with  the  Burton,  and 
our  young  people  became  acquainted,  growing  quite  so 
ciable;  then  how  forlorn  we  deserted  cars  felt  while  our 
inmates  were  coaching  through  Yellowstone! 

Some  of  our  lads  and  lasses  had  a  gay  frolic  at  St.  Paul. 
They  were  pining  for  ice  cream,  and  when  we  reached 
there  late  Saturday  evning,  two  good  hearted  young  men 
set  out  to  get  it.  How  I  laughed  to  see  them  tugging  in 
a  huge  freezer,  with  three  gallons  of  cream  and  bags  of 
cakes  and  pears,  all  for  twelve  dainty  eaters!  How  the  bor 
rowed  plates  and  spoons  flourished,  and  how  the  cream  dis 
appeared,  notwithstanding  its  bulk. 

At  length  my  trip  came  to  a  close.  As  I  crossed  the  Del 
aware,  I  heard  a  promising  youth  gladly  shout,  "O,  Jersey, 
we're  coming,  we're  coming,  Jersey,  I  love  you  best  of  all." 

Ballinger,  Levi,  Moorestown.  Dickinson,  Mrs.  C.  C.,  Camden. 

Ballinger,  Mrs.  Levi,  Moorestown.  Engle,  Mrs.,  Mt.  Holly. 

Budd,  Avorene  L.,  Mt.  Holly.  Ehni,  Christopher,  Raritan. 

Burgess,  Agnes  EM  Inwood,  N.  Y.  Ehni,  Edward  C..  Raritan. 

Compton,  Charles  W.,  Newark.  Gulick,  Walter  A.,  Camden. 

Campbell,  Mrs.  Mary,  Camden.  Hitchner,  F.  G.,  Camden. 

Davy,  Sarah  M.,  Orange.  Humphrey,  M.  D.,  Edw.,  Somerton,  Pa. 

Dickinson,  C.  C.,  Camden.  Kenyon,  J.  C.,  Raritan. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         113 

Long,  Agnes  H.,  Philadelphia.  Prall,  Minnie,  Philadelphia. 

Lindsley,  Miss  L.  M.,  Orange.  Rogers,  J.  J.,  Medford. 

Lindsley,  Emma  L.,  Orange.  Roy,  Anna  C.,  Inwood,  N.  Y. 

Lumbar,  Rev.  W.  T.  S.,  Moorestown.  Sanborn,  Mrs.  George  W.,  Somerville. 

Lumbar,  Mrs.  W.  T.  S.,  Moorestown.  Shaffer,  Ada  LM  Hackensack. 

Marks,  Mrs.  L.,  Orange.  Shaffer,  Lulu  R.,  Hackensack. 

Martin,  Nellie,  Rahway.  Warne,  Rev.  D.  R.,  Kingston. 

Mason,  Mary  L.,  Haddonfield.  Warne,  Mrs.  D.  R.,  Kingston. 

Miller,  R.  Anna,  Somerville.  West,  Samuel,  Riverton. 

Montgomery,  Mr.,  Pemberton.  West,  Mrs.  Samuel,  Riverton. 

Norcross,  Mrs.  Annie,  Mt.  Holly.  Woodhouse,  Mrs.  E.,  Moorestown. 


We  come  now  to  the  people  who  were  denominated  "All- 
sassy,"  a  title  having  its  derivation  and  root  in  the  word 
Alsace  (al-zas).  It  was  not  that  they  were  more  impudent 
than  their  fellow  travellers  that  they  were  thus  styled,  for 
they  were  quiet  and  unobtrusive,  content  with  themselves 
and  their  surroundings,  but  because  they  occupied  the  Al 
sace,  or  the  best  car  in  the  train. 

The  Alsace  contained  the  youth  and  the  age,  those  that 
were  married  and  those  that  wanted  to  be;  those  that 
had  brought  their  dear  ones  with  them,  and  one  that  had 
left  his  sweetheart  behind.  Of  this  last  named  we  have 
a  melancholy  tale  to  unfold.  When  our  train  pulled  out 
of  Jersey  City,  Tommy's  sweetheart  stood  upon  the  plat 
form  with  tears  in  her  eyes,  pleading  "Don't  you  go  Tom 
my,  don't  go."  But  Tommy  was  resolute,  and  with  a  joy 
ous  exterior,  but  with  heart-burnings  within,  he  sped  away 
to  the  far  West.  As  the  distance  increased,  and  Tommy's 
chances  of  caressing  his  sweetheart  on  the  next  Sunday 
night,  grew  rapidly  less,  Tommy's  spirits  drooped  corres 
pondingly,  and  when  Colorado  Springs  was  reached  his 
thermostat  showed  the  zero  mark,  and  Tommy  vowed  he 
had  all  the  enchantment  he  wanted,  and  he  did  not  care 


ii4        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

about  continuing  the  view  at  such  long  range.  Resolved 
never  to  leave  her  again,  with  lightened  heart  he  chartered 
the  fast  express  to  carry  him  back  to  the  girl  he  left  be 
hind  on  the  plains  of  Hoboken;  and  Tommy  was  with  us 
no  more. 

One  of  the  sections  in  this  car  was  occupied  by  two 
bright  and  vivacious  ladies  who  had  never  pledged  allegi 
ance  to  any  man,  and  a  gentleman — a  stranger  to  the  la 
dies.  His  advent  into  their  presence  at  the  beginning  of  the 
journey  was  destined  to  free  their  minds  of  all  doubts  con 
cerning  his  ability  to  make  two  hearts  beat  as  one,  provided 
another  heart  could  be  found  that  would  keep  time  with  his. 

After  depositing  his  traps  and  settling  himself  comfort 
ably  in  his  seat  he  opened  the  conversation  with  the  decla 
ration  somewhat  amusing  to  the  ladies,  "I  am  a  widower." 
Whether  the  gentleman  deemed  the  statement  necessary 
to  his  then  present  safety  or  future  happiness,  the  ladies 
were  unable  to  determine,  but  judging  from  the  attention 
which  he  from  that  time  commanded,  some  of  the  wise 
ones  afterwards  concluded  that  Bro.  Jackson  possessed 
considerable  sagacity.  Thenceforth  sister  Brown  and 
aunt  Fanny  vied  with  each  other  in  making  brother  Jack 
son's  trip  all  that  could  be  desired,  and  when  we  left  Liv 
ingston  it  was  supposed  the  climax  had  been  reached,  and 
that  sister  Brown  had  been  left  at  the  quarter  pole  in  the 
race,  for  brother  Jackson's  heart-strings.  He  and  aunt 
Fanny  were  missing,  and  all  concluded  that  an  elopement 
had  taken  place.  Good  mother  Conklin  declared  that  she 
had  seen  it  all  the  time,  and  thus  we  all  were  led  to  com 
miserate  sister  Brown.  Condolence  continued  to  be 
poured  in  upon  her  until  we  had  almost  reached  Cinnabar, 
when  brother  Jackson,  smiling  and  blushing  like  a  new 
blown  rose,  appeared  to  spoil  the  fun,  and  we  learned  that 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        115 

aunt  Fanny  had  simply  been  left  behind,  and  the  romance 
which  he  had  fancied  was  shattered. 

This  car  boasted  the  only  poetic  porter  on  the  train. 
Toward  the  close  of  the  journey  he  set  his  muse  going  and 
evolved  the  following: 

*  "  Mr.  Davis,  he  would  wait  for  you,  but  he'd  be  losing  time ; 
He  has  got  to  make  connection  on  the  B.  &  O.  R.  R.  line ; 
The  engineer,  he  was  ready ;  be  blew  his  whistle,  too ; 
He  said  he  was  going  to  drive  this  train,  and  drive  it  right  straight 
through. 

"  Young  man,  young  man,  you're  too  late  for  this  train  ; 
Young  man,  young  man,  Mr.  Davis  is  not  to  blame ; 
Young  man,  young  man,  you're  too  late  for  this  train ; 
Another  section  is  on  behind,  for  this  is  a  New  Jersey  train. 

"  Some  says  the  New  York  Central  made  the  fastest  time ; 
I'll  tell  you  about  a  road  out  West — I'll  tell  what  she  done : 
She  left  Kansas  City  sharp,  at  half-past  one ; 
She  arrived  in  Denver,  Colorado,  by  the  setting  of  the  sun. 

"  Mr.  Wagner  says  to  Pullman,  '  I'll  tell  you  what  I'll  do, 
You  give  me  the  Michigan  Central,  and  you  take  the  C.  B.  &  Q.' 
Mr.  Pullman  says  to  Mr.  Wagner,  '111  bet  you  you  what  I'll  do, 
If  you  don't  pay  me  lots  of  money  I'll  take  off  my  vestibule.'" 

While  waiting  at  Ogden  three  members  of  the  party 
strolled  through  the  streets  of  the  city.  They  met  and  en 
gaged  in  conversation  a  resident,  and  during  the  conver 
sation  he  proposed  that  he  be  allowed  to  procure  a  team 
and  carriage  and  show  the  party  the  points  of  interest  about 
the  city.  The  proposal  was  cheerfully  acceded  to,  and 
they  were  driven  about  the  city,  through  the  adjoining 
country,  about  seven  miles  into  Ogden  Canon,  which  pre- 

*Note— A  young  man  was  left  behind  at  St.  Paul  and  this  gave  occasion  for 
these  lines. 


n6        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

sented  one  of  the  prettiest  views  and  scenes  of  the  entire 
trip.  There  was  seen  Bridal  Veil  Falls,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  falling  over  a  high  precipice,  and  the  Ogden  City 
Water  Works,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  One  of  the 
most  pleasing  features  of  this  delightful  side  trip  was  the 
modest  and  unassuming  manner  of  this  Ogden  City  resi 
dent  who,  it  was  learned,  not  from  himself,  but  from 
another,  was  Mr.  H.  H.  Spencer,  the  Mayor  of  the  city. 
This  incident  is  mentioned  as  an  illustration  of  western  hos 
pitality. 

While  our  train  lay  at  Ogden  a  bevy  of  small  girls  with 
inquiring  minds,  and,  as  we  afterwards  learned,  very  intel 
ligent,  came  into  our  car  to  see  the  porter  make  up  the 
berths  or  "beds,"  as  the  girls  called  them.  Their  running 
fire  of  questions  and  conversation  with  the  occupants  of 
the  car  showed  them  to  be  very  well  informed  concerning 
their  Mormon  religion,  and  one  of  the  girls  in  expressing 
her  amazement  at  the  opinions  entertained  by  the  Eastern 
people  concerning  the  Mormons  said,  "the  Eastern  folks 
come  out  here  expecting  to  find  us  with  horns  and  hoofs." 

Altogether  ours  was  a  happy,  pleasure  seeking  company, 
enjoying  all  about  us;  our  hearts  made  lighter  at  times  by 
the  refrain  which  came  floating  from  the  drawing  room, 
"Don't  you  care,"  and  we  didn't. 

Blakely,  Agnes  M.,White  Plains.  N.  Y.  Gabel,  Mary,  Philadelphia. 
Brookfleld,  Mrs.  C.  M.,  Newark.  Geissele,  Hilda  TM  Newark. 

Brown,  Addie,  Camden.  Gibson,  Fred.,  Arlington. 

Conkling,  Mrs.  Oscar,  Basking  Ridge.    Gilmor,  Rev.  J.  S.,  Congers,  N.  Y. 
Conkling,  Florence,  Basking  Ridge.       Gilmor,  Mrs.  J.  S.,  Congers,  N,  Y. 
Cattell,  Frances  VM  Philadelphia.          Hepburn,  Mrs.  W.  H.,  White  Plains* 
Crane,  Anna  M.,  Newark.  N.  Y. 

Crane,  Mrs.  Sarah  F.,  Newark.  Jackson,  Thomas,  Ocean  Grove. 

Dessart,  Victor  E.,  Arlington.  Kennard,  Edward,  Brooklyn. 

Dessart,  Mrs.  Victor  E.,  Arlington.        Levy,  C.  B.,  Freehold. 
Earl,  Elizabeth,  Elizabeth.  La  Bar,  L.  T.,  Beattystown. 

Flanagan,  Alice,  Philadelphia.  La  Bar,  Mrs.  L.  T.,  Beattystown. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        117 

McClellan,Douglas  Y.,  West  Hoboken.  Taylor,  Mrs.  W.  W.,  Holmdel. 
Pierpont,  Caroline  LM  West  Hoboken.  Wainwright,  Halstead  H.,  Manasquan. 
Pierpont,  Ella  V.  C..  West  Hoboken.     Wainwright,     Mrs.    Halstead,  Mana- 
Smith,  Thomas  F.,  N.  Y.  City.  squan. 

Taylor,  W.  W.,  Holmdel. 

Qanfon. 

Among  the  many  thousands  of  persons  in  the  great  ex 
odus  to  California  this  year,  were  twenty-nine  characteris 
tic  individuals  on  the  car  "Canton." 

With  us  were  lawyers,  doctors,  teachers,  church  offi 
cials,  young  men  and  maidens,  all  of  whom  were  bent  on 
having  a  good  time.  We  will  not  soon  forget  those  last 
good  byes  on  the  28th  day  of  June,  those  heart-felt  sym 
pathies  of  our  best  friends,  and  the  tears  so  freely  shed  by 
not  a  few  of  our  party.  But  soon  we  bade  "farewell  to 
every  fear  and  wiped  our  weeping  eyes."  Once  fairly  set 
tled  in  our  beautiful  car  the  work  of  getting  acquainted 
with  the  many  strangers  was  soon  begun,  for  we  were  to 
spend  nearly  eleven  days  in  crossing  the  continent  together. 
At  first  we  sat  in  our  respective  sections  like  so  many  sol 
diers  in  a  line,  waiting  for  an  opportunity  to  break  the  first 
law  of  etiquette,  and  share  our  feelings  with  our  strang'e 
neighbors.  In  this  rather  unpleasant  time  of  suspense,  our 
car  was  hastened  through  the  tunnels  on  the  Baltimore  & 
Ohio  Railroad,  and  passed  the  Washington  Monument  as 
if  there  was  nothing  at  all  worth  seeing  in  this  Eastern 
country. 

Scarcely  had  we  started  on  our  way  up  the  historic  Po 
tomac,  when  the  delicious  aroma  of  coffee  made  a  strong 
appeal  to  our  olfactory  sense. 

A  glance  down  the  aisle  of  the  car  revealed  the  fact  that 
more  than  one  alcohol  lamp,  with  complete  culinary  out 
fits,  were  in  possession  of  a  skillful  maidens.  This  was  a  fa- 


ii8        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

miliar  scene  three  times  a  day,  and  the  generosity  of  our 
kind  lady  friends  will  be  remembered  long  after  much  of 
the  grand  scenery  of  the  wonderful  Rockies  has  faded  from 
our  memories.  On  the  first  morning  of  our  trip  the  cause 
of  woman's  rights  was  settled.  The  ladies  discovered 
that  seven  men  had  a  dressing  room  seven  times  as  large 
as  the  one  used  by  twenty-two  women.  The  majority 
ruled  in  our  small  Republic,  and  both  men  and  women 
afterward  made  their  toilet  in  the  spacious  smoker,  with  a 
freedom  that  would  amaze  our  fastidious  old  maids  of  the 
East.  Our  ladies  rejoiced  that  they  were  not  "He-brides," 
that  is  passengers  on  the  car  Hebrides,  where  there  was  no 
man  except  the  colored  porter,  or  Brigham  Young,  as  he 
was  styted.  The  three  married  men  of  our  party  were  very 
useful  to  the  young  ladies  and  gentlemen,  for  two  days  had 
not  passed  before  every  one  in  the  car  knew  that  our  young 
Camden  lawyer  was  fast  becoming  a  Croesus,  and  that  our 
embryo  doctor  of  Moorestown  gave  promise  of  a  brilliant 
future.  We  were  a  happy  people,  noting  familiar  flowers 
and  birds,  and  comparing  notes  about  rare  bits  of  scenery 
which  especially  struck  our  fancy.  But  when  the  prom 
ised  rides  through  the  city  of  St.  Louis  were  lost  in  the 
shades  of  night,  and  we  had  to  endure  six  hours  wait  at 
Kansas  City  in  a  tropical  temperature,  which  prostrated 
men  and  women,  our  legal  talent  was  up  in  arms  and  de 
clared  there  was  ("cause  for  action.")  But  "every  rose  has 
its  thorn,"  and  an  ideal  ride  across  the  Kansas  prairie,  and 
a  trip  up  Pike's  Peak  were  sufficient  to  arouse  the  most 
sanguine  heart,  and  never  again  was  the  voice  of  a  "kicker" 
heard  on  the  "Canton."  On  the  whole,  our  car  gave  our 
kind  manager,  Mr.  Davis,  very  little  cause  for  worry.  We 
could  entertain  ourselves  when  nature  did  not  appeal  to 
our  senses,  and  the  intricate  questions  of  theology,  psycho- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         119 

logy,  sociology  and  matrimony  were  discussed  with  a  skill 
that  would  astonish  our  college  fraternity.  Deafening 
shouts  of  laughter  were  daily  heard  in  the  smoker,  or  some 
corner  of  the  car  where  were  nestled  a  group  of  "jokers." 
We  had  a  number  of  excellent  story  tellers,  but  one  of  our 
party  was  especially  gifted.  He  never  ran  out  of  jokes,  and 
often  related  a  story  as  old  as  Methuselah,  with  a  freshness 
that  provoked  applause  from  the  admiring  audience.  Many 
of  our  stories  had  an  appropriate  setting  in  the  surround 
ing  scenery.  While  crossing  the  desert  our  train  halted, 
which  was  a  rare  thing  to  do! 

There  was  little  to  look  at  except  alkali  plains,  covered 
with  sage  bush.  While  waiting,  our  joker  observed  a  lank 
good-for-nothing  looking  fellow  leaning  against  the  sta 
tion,  and  he  inquired  of  the  stranger  the  distance  to  the 
next  stop?  The  slouchy  man  of  the  desert  answered  in  a 
low,  husky  voice,  "three  miles."  Our  joker  asked  what 
malady  caused  his  weakness,  and  he  replied,  "the  land  was 
so  poor  he  could  not  raise  his  voice!"  At  Helper,  Utah, 
our  train  (strange  to  say)  had  to  rest  several  hours.  It  was 
a  beautiful  Sunday  morning,  and  the  little  desert  town  la 
bored  manfully  to  satisfy  the  hunger  of  more  than  a  thou 
sand  Christian  Endeavorers.  A  number  of  Cantonians  vis 
ited  a  restaurant  in  a  vain  search  for  food,  until  finally  one 
of  our  number  pitifully  asked  the  charming  matron  if  she 
would  be  so  kind  as  to  give  a  poor  starving  man  some 
thing  to  eat?  The  hungry  look  and  persuasive  words  had 
the  desired  effect,  and  a  fine  breakfast  of  ham  and  eggs  was 
enjoyed  for  the  small  consideration  of  "two  bits."  Often 
a  few  of  our  party  stampeded  the  culinary  departments  of 
restaurants  and  helped  themselves  to  tea,  coffee,  bread,  but 
ter,  etc.,  while  hundreds,  less  persistent,  returned  to  the  car 
with  aching  voids.  The  fields  and  forests  lost  many  a 


120        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

sone  and  flower,  and  one  person  noted  over  a  hundred 
kinds  of  plants,  similar  to  our  native  species.  This  same 
botanist,  before  reaching  the  Pacific  coast,  discovered  a 
higher  order  of  daisies,  and  it  is  confidentially  believed  that 
the  characteristics  and  locality  of  this  rare  specimen  were 
carefully  noted. 

The  Red  man  was  a  curiosity  to  many  of  us,  and  we  «m~ 
braced  every  opportunity  of  familiarizing  ourselves  with 
his  unique  character. 

One  evening,  on  the  Alkali  plain,  while  our  train  was  tak 
ing  its  usual  rest,  we  enticed  a  young  buck  of  magnificent 
physique,  into  our  car.  In  a  moment  many  of  our  charm 
ing  ladies  were  gazing  on,  while  the  gentlemen  were  plying 
questions  to  our  distinguished  visitor.  We  pointed  to  one 
of  our  prettiest  damsels,  and  asked  the  Indian  if  he  did  not 
want  a  squaw?  He  gave  a  characteristic  shake  of  the  head 
and  said  "no."  "White  woman!"  "She's  no  workie!" 
"She's  no  washie."  Thus  showing  his  keen  sense  of  his 
appreciation  of  the  faults  of  the  white  race.  It  would  not 
do  to  close  our  story  without  mentioning  our  favorite  pas 
time.  After  the  shades  of  night  had  fallen,  the  tables  of 
the  Pullman  car  were  adjusted  in  the  smoking  room,  and 
seated  on  opposing  sides  were  our  enthusiastic  devotees  of 
"Jenkins  up."  The  shouts  of  the  captains  vied  with  the 
roar  of  the  moving  train  and  the  snores  of  the  old  folks. 
Finally,  dear  readers,  you  know  with  me  that  our  minds 
and  hearts  were  often  turned  from  the  amusing  instances  of 
our  trip  to  the  more  serious  appreciation  of  this  wonder 
ful  continent  of  ours,  and  the  wisdom  displayed  in  creating 
man  and  the  universe.  How  often  the  words  of  the  Psalm 
ist  were  brought  to  our  remembrance:  "The  Heavens  de 
clare  the  glory  of  God  and  the  firmament  showeth  His 
handiwork!"  Often  our  hearts  were  comforted  by  the 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        121 

sweet  council  of  visiting  ministers  to  our  car,  and  the  Chris 
tian  fellowship  of  our  own  members  made  our  journey  a 
rare  trip  indeed.  We  were  better  men  and  women  when 
the  Golden  Gate  was  reached,  and  we  trust  our  wanderings 
helped  prepare  us  to  enter  the  pearly  gates  of  the  New 
Jerusalem. 

Alcott,  Anna  J.,  Marlton.  Reynolds,  Sarah,  Moorestown. 

Blakely,  W.  G.,  Camden.  Roubaud,  Millard,  Newark. 

Blakely,  Mrs.  W.  G.,  Camden.  Shadier,  Mrs.  J.  W.,  Moorestown. 

Bowman,  Mrs.  Myra  J.,  Brooklyn.  Shoemaker,  Mary,  Bridgeton. 

Bowman,  Miss,  Brooklyn.  Shoemaker,  Harriet,  Bridgeton. 

French,  Ella,  Moorestown.  Sodden,  Mrs.,  Newark. 

Haines,  Mrs.  Emma, .  Spawn,  Eva,  Newark. 

Harlow,  Annie,  Philadelphia.  Stimus,  Clara,  Moorestown. 

Heaton,  G.  W.,  Moorestown.  Stimus,  Howard,  Moorestown. 

Heaton,  Mrs.  G.  W.,  Moorestown.  Weis,  Mrs.  H.,  Newark. 

Nichols,  Florence,  Newark.  Weis,  Miss,  Newark. 

Overman,  Prof.  W.  F.,  Moorestown.  Wilson,  Annie,  Burlington, 

Perkins,  Almeda,  Moorestown.  Wilson,  Mary,  Burlington. 

Pierce,  George,  Moorestown.  Wilson,  Prof.  L.  M.,  Nyack,  N.  Y. 
Putnam,  Adelaide  G.,  Newark. 

Burton. 

In  writing  of  the  trip  to  California,  let  it  be  understood 
that  the  occupants  of  the  car  "Burton"  had  travelled  but 
a  few  hundred  miles  when  the  goodfellowship  and  con 
geniality  of  the  party,  united  us  as  one  household,  and  we 
journeyed  the  remaining  eight  thousand  miles  as  the  "Bur 
ton  family." 

On  our  car  there  were  thirty-seven  persons — one  a  min 
ister,  three  physicians,  and  fourteen  were  teachers. 

The  muse  was  early  inspired  to  work,  and  we  sang  our 
song — to  the  tune  of  "Marching  through  Georgia" — in 
every  car  in  our  train.  The  first  verse  and  chorus  were 
composed  by  an  estimable  "Burton"  lady,  and  verses  were 
added  by  others. 


122        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

After  a  few  hours  absence,  to  make  a  tour  of  some  wes 
tern  city  or  village,  and  after  our  separation  of  several  days, 
when  we  were  scattered  about  in  the  different  hotels  of  San 
Francisco,  the  refrain  to  this  song  would  be  the  unfailing 
welcome  on  our  return  to  the  car. 

The  Christian  Endeavor  spirit  strongly  pervaded  the 
Burton  during  the  entire  journey.  We  had  some  active 
workers  with  us,  and  scarcely  a  day  passed  without  its  ser 
vice  of  song  or  Christian  Endeavor  prayer  meeting.  These 
meetings  were  usually  held  in  the  evening,  and  were  con 
ducted  by  different  persons,  notably  Rev.  Mr.  Martine,  Rev. 
Mr.  Savage,  Rev.  Mr.  Wyckoff  and  Dr.  W.  R.  Ward. 
One  evening  the  Rev.  Mr.  Ottman  accepted  an  invitation  to 
come  into  the  "Burton"  and  give  a  Bible  talk,  and  it  was 
very  interesting. 

My  impression  is  that  these  services  worked  much  good, 
for  in  contemplating  the  works  of  God,  whose  wonderful 
creations  were  hourly  entrancing  us,  we  were  all  possessed 
of  a  spirit  of  profound  adoration  of  Him  who  for  our  delight 
had  made  the  snow-capped  mountains,  the  matchless  can 
ons,  the  everlasting  hills,  which  are  but  His  footstools. 

A  pleasant  feature  of  our  journey  was  that  of  meeting  old 
friends  in  some  far  western  city. 

Some  of  the  Burton  family  met  friends  in  San  Francisco, 
and  others  had  friends  in  Helena  or  Spokane  or  Minne 
apolis,  and  several  met  friends  at  Colorado  Springs.  These 
meetings  and  greetings  and  farewells  will  have  a  lasting 
effect  on  the  impressionable  mind. 

Our  experience  in  Yellowstone  Park  will  probably  be 
written  in  the  general  account  of  the  trip,  but  we  of  the 
"Burton"  would  like  to  say  of  this  "Wonderland  of  Amer 
ica,"  that  it  was  a  fitting  climax  to  a  wonderful  journey. 
Every  evening  in  the  park  a  Christian  Endeavor  meeting 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        123 

was  held  at  the  hotel,  where  we  would  be  stopping,  and  in 
each  instance,  but  one,  it  was  the  first  religious  service  that 
had  ever  been  held  on  the  premises.  Let  us  hope  that  many 
have  been  held  since,  as  a  ^reat  number  of  Christian  En- 
deavorers  were  following  us. 

The  genial  porter  of  the  "Burton"  rejoiced  in  the 
euphonious  name  of  "Grenville  Chalmers  Davenport,'' 
and  by  common  consent  we  called  him  "Chauncey  M.  De- 
pew."  For  what  reason  I  do  not  know,  unless  it  was  on 
the  principle  of  the  darkey  who  named  his  uncle  January, 
because  he  was  born  in  December. 

When  our  journey  was  over  we  realized  that  our  hats  had 
been  hanging  on  companion  hooks  so  long  that  it  seemed 
like  "breaking  home  ties"  to  take  them  down  for  a  final 
parting,  but  reunions  of  the  Burton  family  have  already 
been  planned,  and  I  am  sure  that  friendships  have  been 
founded  that  will  be  lasting. 


(Time— •" Marching  Through  Georgia"} 

Here's  to  dear  old  "  Burton," 

The  van  car  of  the  train, 
All  the  way  from  Jersey  shore 

She's  led  the  sleeper  chain. 
Faithful  still  she  speeds  along 
Toward  the  Golden  Gate, 
The  brightest  light  from  Jersey  state. 

CHORUS. 

All  hail !  all  hail !  the  Burton  family, 

All  hail !  all  hail !  we  come  from  New  Jersey ! 

Sisters  we,  and  brotheis  strong, 

We  come  from  sea  to  sea, 

Thus  we  sing  the  Burton  greeting. 


I24        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

A  roll  and  coffee  for  two  "  bits," 

A  dish  of  "  railroad  frogs," 
We  glory  in  "  conductor's  punch," 

We're  bruised  by  many  jogs, 
We've  eaten  "  steam  puffs"  on  the  road, 
And  snow  balls  on  Pike's  Peak, 
And  slept  while  flying  through  the  air. 


When  we  separated  from  the  New  Jersey  Special  at  Port 
land,  and  the  Burton  and  the  Saale  were  sent  on  to  Yellow 
stone  Park,  the  following  verse  was  added: 

We  come  with  hearty  greeting 

From  the  Burton  family, 
We've  now  annexed  the  sleeper  Saale, 

We  shout  it  joyfully. 
We're  the  two  remaining  families 
Of  all  the  Jersey  host 
Speeding  to  the  National  Park. 

Ball,  Hattie  EM  Newark.  Hill,  Augusta,  Newark. 

Blauvelt,  Annette,  Newark.  Howell,  M.  D.,  Ella  Woodward,  Orange. 

Braaum,  Sarah  H.t  Newark.  Mac  Crellish,  William  A.,  Trenton. 

Breck,  Helen  M.,  Brooklyn.  Morris,  Laura  BM  Newark. 

Burnite,  Mary  A.,  Newark.  North,  F.  A.,  Toms  River. 

Ouddeback,  Olive,  Paterson.  Peer,  E.  Jane,  Newark. 

Doty,  Jessie  T.,  Lyons  Farms.  Pelser,  Agnes  E.,  Paterson, 

Drake,  Walter,  Newark.  Remain,  Mary  E.,  Newark. 

Drake,  Mrs.  Walter,  Newark.  Runyon,  J.  D.,  Newark. 

Edwards,  Harriet  S.,  Newark.  Runyon,  Mrs.  J.  D.,  Newark. 

Eunson,  Sarah  A.,  Newark.  Savage,  Rev.  Charles  A.,  Orange. 

Farmer,  Mary  M.,  Newark.  Schmidt,  Christian,  Newark. 

Foster,  Frank  A.,  Newark.  Smith,  Mrs.  Fannie  W.,  Newark. 

Foster,  Emma  C.,  Newark.  Smith,  Leona  C..  Newark. 

Gasser,  Louise  J.,  Irvington.  Sweasy,  M.  Augusta,  Newark. 

•Gauch,  Lizzie  E.,  Newark,  Van  Horn,  M.  D.,  Caroline  H.,  Phila. 

Goble,  Etta  R.,  Newark.  Ward,  Mary  C.,  Lyons  Farms. 

Henderson,  Annie,  Newark.  Ward,  M.  D.,  William  R.,  Lyons  Farms. 
Hill,  Bena,  Newark. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        125 


Whatever  may  be  said  in  this  book  of  the  other  cars  which 
composed  our  train,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  no  one  will  imagine 
for  an  instant  that  any  of  them  could  compare  favorably 
in  any  particular  with  the  Utrecht.  The  reader  will  prob 
ably  be  told  of  the  theological  wisdom  contained  in  the 
Superb,  the  youth  and  beauty  in  the  Hebrides,  the  musical 
ability  in  the  Sydenham,  the  literary  genius  in  the  Nadura, 
and  so  on  through  the  long  list,  but  all  these  were  com 
bined  in  our  car,  and  to  these  accomplishments  can  be 
added  a  cordial  geniality,  and  a  regard  for  the  comforts  of 
one  another,  which  will  leave  a  delightful  recollection  as 
long  as  memory  shall  last. 

There  were  doctors  of  medicine,  doctors  of  divinity,  doc 
tors  of  dental  surgery,  doctors  of  law,  and  horse  doctors  on 
the  train,  but  not  one  of  them  could  compare  with  our  Dr. 
Slack.  You  need  not  take  my  word  for  it,  but  ask  any  one 
who  went  with  the  excursion.  They  may  first  tell  you 
that  he  found  fault  with  Pike's  Peak,  because  it  was  not 
high  enough;  with  the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  because  there 
were  no  turnips  planted  there;  with  the  railroad  restau 
rants,  because  they  gave  him  ham  sandwiches  instead  of 
cheese;  with  San  Francisco,  because  it  was  too  cold;  with 
Kansas  City,  because  it  was  too  hot,  and  with  Yellowstone 
National  Park,  because  the  water  in  the  hot  springs  was  not 
hot  enough  ;  but  ask  them  who  attended  to  their  headaches, 
backaches,  earaches,  toothaches  and  stomachaches,  and 
who  took  the  cinders  out  of  their  eyes,  and  they  will  tell  you 
with  one  accord  —  Dr.  Slack.  With  such  medical  talent, 
it  was,  of  course,  necessary  that  we  should  have  a  profes 
sional  nurse,  and  we  had  one  who  was  an  adept  at  adminis 
tering  the  doctor's  very  pleasant  (?)  potions,  and  whose 


126        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

soothing  touch  was  as  soft  as  velvet.  During  the  day  she 
tripped  through  the  car  as  happy  as  a  lark;  but  alas,  whea 
night  fell,  her  happiness  was  at  an  end;  for  being  as  round  as 
the  proverbial  dumpling,  it  was  necessary  for  her  to  be 
tightly  strapped  to  her  berth  to  prevent  her  falling  from 
it,  which  we  all  feared  might  wreck  the  car  and  train. 

In  section  number  one,  was  a  young  Somerville  lawyer 
who  made  a  great  deal  of  noise,  and  who  promised  to  be 
the  protector  of  every  one  in  the  car  should  it  be  attacked 
by  Indians,  cowboys  or  robbers,  but  his  bravery  vanished 
in  Helena,when  a  common,  ordinary  trolley  motorman,with- 
out  feathers,  paint  or  lariat,  offered  to  spoil  his  complexion 
if  he  ever  dared  call  him  Dennis  again,  and  nothing  more 
was  heard  of  him  during  the  remainder  of  the  trip,  and  it 
has  even  been  rumored  that  he  was  so  crest  fallen  at  his  loss 
of  reputation,  that  he  decided  not  to  come  East,  and  left  the 
party  at  Chicago. 

Cox-ey's  Army  joined  the  party  at  Philadelphia.  It 
was'nt  a  real  army,  you  know;  it  only  sounded  so.  It  was 
composed  of  "Sis"  and  Cox-ey  himself,  in  the  first  place, 
but  was  reinforced  by  a  Shinn-dy  from  Ocean  county,  and 
his  better  half.  After  this,  it  needed  no  further  additions 
to  make  section  No.  3  the  noisiest  on  the  train. 

The  inmates  of  our  car  may  not  know  that  there  were  two 
occupants  in  section  No.  I,  but  there  were.  A  young  jew 
eler  occupied  a  berth  there  from  eleven  o'clock  at  night 
until  six  the  next  morning.  The  remainder  of  his  time  was 
spent  in  the  Proteus.  Strange,  too,  for  the  girls  in  our  car 
were  just  as  attractive  as  in  any. 

The  most  envied  young  lady  on  the  train  was  from  Tren 
ton,  and  occupied  section  No.  2.  The  cause  of  this  envious 
feeling  was  the  free  use  of  the  telegraph  wires  from  any 
point  along  the  line,  provided  the  message  was  sent  to- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         127 

Trenton;  and,  of  course,  she  had  no  desire  to  send  one  else 
where.  All  the  other  girls  wished  their  best  fellows  were 
managers  of  Western  Union  Telegraph  offices. 

The  writer  would  like  to  distinguish  everyone  in  the  car, 
and  would  have  no  difficulty  in  assigning  a  specialty,  to 
each,  would  space  permit  it,  but  as  space  is  limited,  he  will 
close  this  letter  by  hoping  that  everyone  enjoyed  the  trip 
and  the  companionship  of  the  other  occupants  of  the 
Utrecht,  as  much  as  he. 


Bodine,  J.  P.,  Flemington. 
Bolton,  Rev.  James,  Roycefleld. 
Branigan,  James  Dunlap,  Newton. 
Clarke,  Margaret  P.,  Hackensack. 
Cox,  William  E.,  Cream  Ridge. 
Cox,  Mrs.  William  E.,  Cream  Ridge. 
Dungan,  Nelson  Y.,  Somerville. 
Easton,  F.  C.,  Princeton. 
Easton,  Mrs.  F.  C.,  Princeton. 
Erler,  E.  E.,  Newark. 
Fell,  Mrs.  C.  D..  Glen  Ridge. 
Fulton,  Joseph  F.,  South  Amboy. 
Hanks,  A.  A.,  Jersey  City. 
Hendricks,  Charles  O.,  Newark. 
Hibbs,  Susan,  Trenton. 
Hibbs,  Elizabeth  L .,  Trenton. 
Hill,  F.  Blanche,  Andover. 
Hill,  Ida  M.,  Andover. 
Honness,  B.  F.,  Clinton. 
Honness,  Mrs.  B.  F.,  Clinton. 


Ketcham,  E.  S.,  Newark. 
Killinger,  Pauline,  Camden. 
Lauer,  Jr.,  John  C.,  Newark. 
Littell,  Bloomfleld,  Orange. 
Littell,  Jennie,  Orange. 
McMurtrie,  Mrs.  George.  N.  Y.  City. 
Moore,  Emma  E.,  N.  Y.  City. 
Munn,  Grace  A..  Boonton. 
Nevius,  A.  G.,  Flemington. 
Petty,  Edward  L.,  Dover. 
Roberts.  Joseph  Y.,  N.  Y.  City. 
Rowland,  R.  M.,  Dayton. 
Schlect,  Mary,  Haddonfield. 
Shinn,  George  L.,  Haddonfleld. 
Shinn,  Mrs.  George  M,,  Haddonfleld. 
Slack,  M.D.,Clarence  M.,  N.  Brunswick. 
Westervelt,  Harry  F.,  Newark. 
Wilson,  S.  H.,  Andover. 
Wilson,  Mrs.  S.  H..  Andover. 
Zimmerman,  H.  B.,  New  Brunswick. 


Gpsom. 

The  New  Jersey  C.  E.  Special  for  San  Francisco,  July  7- 
12,  1897,  will  live  long  in  the  memory  of  those  who  were 
among  the  tourists.  And  yet  memory  itself  will  rejoice  in 
a  souvenir  that  gathers  up  and  records  facts  or  incidents  of 
that  delightful  journey.  In  our  Pullman  car,  "Epsom,"  we 
9 


128        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

had,  as  we  went  out,  nineteen  men  and  twenty-six  women. 
The  number  was  composed  of  farmers,  business  men  and 
women.  Students,  three  school  principals,  one  professor 
of  a  classical  academy,  and  four  clergymen.  Of  course,  there 
were  besides,  persons  of  leisure,  or  with  occupations  unclas 
sified,  who  yet  are  most  important  members  of  society,  as 
they  were  of  this  company.  We  met  as  strangers ;  we  parted 
as  friends,  deeply  interested  in  each  other.  The  friendships 
one  forms,  even  when  we  may  not  meet  again,  constitute 
one  of  the  great  benefits  as  well  as  charms  of  travel. 

Our  journey,  beginning  on  the  28th  of  June,  and  ending 
on  the  23d  of  July,  was  one  of  great  pleasure.  For  this  we 
owe  not  a  little  to  our  managers ;  very  much  to  the  faithful 
ness  of  the  railroad  employees,  and  more  than  we  can  tell 
to  the  kind  Father  of  us  all,  whose  protecting  care  kept  us 
in  safety  in  our  outgoing  and  our  incoming.  One  of  our 
number  is  over  eighty  years  of  age,  and  his  wife  is  nearly 
as  old;  a  cheerful,  goodly  couple,  who  evidently  enjoyed 
che  journey  from  beginning  to  end. 

One  of  our  number,  Mrs.  Kane,  was  laid  prostrate  in 
San  Francisco  by  some  spinal  difficulty,  or  paralysis.  She 
was  helped  to  the  car  for  the  homeward  journey  by  her 
friends.  Though  constantly  confined  to  her  berth,  she  was 
a  pattern  of  patience,  cheerfulness  and  hope,  from  ocean  to 
ocean.  Though  in  privation  and  suffering,  she  evidently 
had  "sunshine  in  her  soul."  And  this  had  its  full  counter 
part  in  the  "sunshine"  of  care  and  kindness  from  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Baker,  who  ministered  to  her  every  want.  Nor  do 
we  forget  the  kind  and  much  prized  visits  made  to  all  who 
had  need,  by  the  trains'  physician,  Dr.  Slack.  In  like  man 
ner  would  we  make  grateful  mention  of  the  cheerful  and 
very  helpful  service  rendered  by  Miss  Geissele,  a  trained 
nurse,  who  formed  one  of  our  number  on  our  return. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        129 

I  am  sure  many  who  were  weary  as  the  shades  of  evening 
drew  nigh,  will  often  think  of  the  willing  service  Apgar  ren 
dered,  in  making  ready  berths  for  the  night.  Albert,  our 
porter,  certainly  had  "sunshine"  in  his  face,  and  was  faith 
ful  and  efficient.  But  even  he  could  not  prepare  two  berths 
at  once.  Hence  the  appreciation  above  mentioned. 

We  had  in  our  car,  as  did  the  others,  many,  a  service  of 
song  and  hour  of  devotion.  Clergymen  and  laymen  alike 
took  part  in  the  services,  which  were  uniformly  times  of 
delight  and  refreshing  to  us  all. 

The  Pullman  car,  Epsom,  became  our  home  on  wheels 
for  the  Christian  Endeavor  Convention  in  San  Francisco. 
It  was  our  sitting  room  and  bed  room  and  often  our  dining 
room  from  Paulus  Hook  to  Golden  Gate. 

We  were  such  a  congenial  company  that  with  inevitable 
annoyances,  good  nature  predominated.  There  was  sun 
shine  in  our  souls  whatever  the  external  circumstances. 
Some  found  pleasant  entertainment  in  our  names.  A  lady 
said  the  "Epsom  was  a  good  car  to  be  in  when  you  are 
sick."  I  often  heard  it  said  to  one  of  our  number,  "Why 
cough?"  Although  W.  was  fat  and  hearty.  Bruin  and  Fox 
were  not  caged,  but  prudently  located  at  the  extreme  of  the 
car.  Deer  heads,  jack  rabbits  and  buffalo  horns  were  only 
souvenirs.  Our  butcher  had  his  pleasantest  smiles  for  Mrs. 
Bull  and  Miss  Bullock.  The  name  of  our  tallest  man  was 
seldom  dissociated  from  the  mountain  discovered  by  Pike. 
The  Miller  ground  no  corn  that  did  get  under  his  heels.  The 
Bakers  bought  their  bread  as  well  as  the  rest  of  us.  The 
Barber  was  charming,  and  yet  the  gentlemen  would  shave 
themselves  and  draw  blood  rather  than  adopt  the  Chicago 
idea.  When  a  celibate  preacher  became  rheumatic,  he 
readily  accepted  the  services  of  our  young  lady  physician. 


130        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

And  this  was  not  done  because  the  regular  doctor  was 
Slack. 

We  shared  "our  mutual  woes"  and  blessings.  In  a  few 
things  only  was  the  shaving  business  overdone.  When  a 
good  brother  was  crowded  out  of  his  own  quarters  by  the 
ladies,  I  took  him  in.  Then  he  took  in  my  lunch  and  went 
into  my  grip  and  general  belongings  with  strange  disre 
gard  of  muem  et  tunm.  Once  I  had  provided  some  de 
licious  chicken  for  my  time  of  need,  perhaps  on  a  side  track 
in  some  barren  spot,  and  simply  saying  'Til  pay  you  for 
this,"  he  devoured  it  with  all  the  sang  froid  of  a  Monmouth 
county  mosquito.  This  was  my  return  for  folding  him  in 
my  arms  and  holding  him  face  down  upon  my  lap,  while  a 
left  handed  preacher  sewed  a  very  important  button  on  "his 
only  pair."  But  with  all  his  faults,  I  love  him  still. 

At  Salt  Lake  somebody  gave  our  porter  some  fresh  cher 
ries.  Porter  soon  became  weaker  than  water.  At  bed 
time  he  was  done  up  and  thirty-six  beds  were  not.  The 
women  could  not  make  these  beds,  and  in  this  emergency 
some  of  the  men  were  women.  But  a  farmer,  a  teacher 
and  a  preacher  came  to  the  rescue.  At  low  twelve  there 
were  no  "scenes  of  confusion,  nor  creature  complaints." 
The  porter  was  doubled  up,  but  the  passengers  were  ex 
tended  at  full  length  wherever  the  berth  permitted. 

"Still  o'er  these  scenes  will  memory  wake."  The  friend 
ships  formed  on  the  Epsom  will  be  lasting. 


Apgar,  Henry,  Lebanon. 
Baker,  H.  C.,  Jersey  City. 
Baker,  Mrs.  H.  C.,  Jersey  City. 
Baker,  Florence,  Jersey  City. 
Baldwin,  J.  MM  Newark. 
Barber,  Caroline  A.,  Plainfield. 
Bissell,  W.  EM  Newark. 
Bissell,  Mrs.  W.  E.,  Newark. 
Bruno,  A.  J.,  Newark. 


Bull,  Mrs.  B.  H.,  Newark. 
Bullock,  Noel  J.,  Plainfield. 
Conner,  Prof.  John  G.,  Colora,  Md. 
Conner,  Mrs.  John  G.,  Colora,  Md. 
De  Mott,  Bessie,  South  Amboy. 
Doremusr  Mrs.  A,  L.,  Jersey  City. 
Emson,  Mrs.  Sarah  E.,  New  Egypt. 
Emson,  Hannah  A.,  New  Egypt. 
Foster,  Mrs.  A.,  Jersey  City. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         131 


Fox,  J.  F.,  Annandale. 
Frazee,  Amanda  M.,  Rah  way. 
Gasser,  Louise  J.,  Irvington. 
Groendyke,  J.  N.,  Lebanon. 
Groendyke,  Mrs.  J.  N.,  Lebanon. 
Ingalls,  Charles  L.,  Verona. 
Jackson,  Mrs.  C.  H.,  Rahway. 
Kane,  Mrs.  H.  S.,  Jersey  City. 
Kngler,  Rev.  J.  B.,  Reaville. 
Kugler,  Mrs.  J.  B.,  Reaville. 
Loizeaux,  A.  S.,  Plainfleld. 
Mershon,  Rev.  A.  L.,  Annandale. 
Mershon,  Mrs.  A.  L.,  Annandale. 


Mackenzie.  Mrs.  Duncan,  Trenton. 
Mackenzie,  Margaret,  Trenton. 
Miller,  C.  P..  Newark. 
Peake,  Rev.  A.  P.,  East  Millstone. 
Roberts,  Leander,  Plainfield. 
Roberts,  Mrs.  Leander,  Plainfleld. 
Stires,  M.  F.,  Jersey  City. 
Straub,  Gottlob,  South  Amboy. 
Sutphen,  Mrs.  M.  C.,  Annandale. 
Thayer,  L.  Elma,  Plainfleld. 
Todd,  Ada  E.,  Annandale. 
Williams,  Samuel,  Newark. 


Pfofeus. 

With  one  or  two  exceptions  the  excursionists  from  Pater- 
son  and  vicinity  occupied  the  Proteus.  On  the  homeward 
trip  the  writer  of  these  lines  composed  the  following  rhymes 
which  were  sung  by  the  choir,  which  he  organized  in  the 
car.  Inasmuch  as  they  were  intended  to  review  the  period 
of  time  spent  on  the  Proteus,  they  are  inserted  here  after 
slight  changes: 


I.     THE  CAR. 
(Tune — "Ta-ra-ra-boom-de-ay.") 

Some  travellers  took  a  journey  far, 
They  all  rode  in  a  Pullman  car. 
And  nothing  came  their  joy  to  mar, 
For  all  went  smooth  without  a  jar, 

Yes  they  saw  the  great  Pacific, 

And  California  with  fruits  prolific, 

Oregon  and  Washington, 

And  back  again  to  Paterson. 


132        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

They  rode  out  there  on  Proteus, 

She  ran  just  like  an  omnibus, 

Her  wheels  were  round,  her  berths  were  square, 

But  she  made  sure  to  get  them  there. 

O  Proteus,  but  you  were  good, 

O  Proteus,  your  floors  are  wood. 

A  nice  new  carpet  on  your  floor 

And  silver  handles  on  your  door. 

The  porter  said  his  name  was  Dave, 
We  made  him  work  just  like  a  slave, 
Brushing  clothes  and  making  beds, 
Finding  combs  for  frowsy  heads. 

He-  made  us  go  to  bed  at  eight. 

He  would  not  let  us  stay  in  late. 

He  thought  he  owned  the  train  and  us, 

But  kept  us  straight  without  a  fuss. 

The  conductor  was  a  gentleman, 

As  cool  and  calm  as  a  palm  leaf  fan, 

His  clothes  were  neat,  his  linen  clean, 

His  buttons  bright  with  glorious  sheen. 
We'll  remember  him  forever  more, 
We'll  think  of  him  when  life  is  o'er; 
We'll  always  praise  the  conductor 
Who  took  us  to  the  Western  shore. 

No.  II.     THE  PEOPLE. 
(Tune— "Home,  Sweet  Home.") 

Mid  pleasures  in  palace  cars,  though  we  may  roam, 
From  Paterson  to  Frisco,  there's  no  place  like  home. 
With  rumbling  and  grumbling  the  train  rolled  along, 
But  all  were  heard  singing  the  joyous  old  song. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         133 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 
There's  no  place  like  home. 

We  had  Ryle,  Miller,  Thompson  and  Quackenbush  and 

Stiles, 

Piaget,  Hough  and  Duryee,  and  Schaub  with  many  smiles. 
Then  Cuddeback  and  Belcher,  and  Beveridge  alone, 
Whose  sister  would  have  been  there  if  she  hadn't  stayed  at 

home. 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 
There's  no  place  like  home. 

Then  Tompkins  and  Mitchell  and  Spreen  were  in  the  van, 
And  Donkersley  and  Doremus  who  are  a  kind  of  a  clan, 
The  Fowlers  from  Passaic,  (and  one  had  eyes  that  shone 
When  letters  came  in  bunches  from  England's  sunny  home.) 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 

There's  no  place  like  home. 

Miss  Pelser,  Miss  Murray,  Roy  Hartley,  Bess  Van  Winkle 
She  tackled  the   foot   ball   player  and   downed   him   in   a 

twinkle, 

And  there  was  Mrs.  Mathews  who  travelled  all  alone, 
She  never  sneezed  nor  murmured,  nor  even  wished  for 

home. 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet,  home, 
There's  no  place  like  home. 

When  the  porter  began  to  make  up  the  beds, 
And  people  sat  waiting  with  aches  in  their  heads, 
When  the  way  to  the  berths  had  politely  been  shown, 
T'was  then  with  weary  bones  they  began  to  wish  for  home. 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet,  home, 

There's  no  place  like  home. 


134        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

When  cinders  were  flying  which  made  the  faces  black, 
And  everybody  trying  to  get  their  baggage  back, 
When  bathtubs  were  longed  for  in  lands  where  unknown, 
Then  slimy,  grimy  travellers  began  to  wish  for  home. 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 

There's  no  place  like  home. 

Fried  oysters  and  beefsteak  and  turkey  and  peas, 
And  many  sweetmeats  that  appetites  appease, 
Clean  dishes  and  table  clothes  and  ringer  bowls  alone, 
And  other  things  we  had  not,  these  we  could  get  at  home 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 

There's  no  place  like  home. 

We're  glad  that  we  looked  at  the  wild  and  woolly  West, 
Which  was  supremely  superfine  when  it  was  at  its  best. 
But  of  all  the  fine  places  we've  ever  seen  or  known, 
There's  no  place  like  home,  there's  no  place  like  home. 

Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 

There's  no  place  like  home. 

Beveridge,  Bruce.  Paterson.  Murray,  Florence,  Patersou, 
Belcher,  Mrs.  William  H. ,  Paterson.     Piaget.  Alfred,  Paterson. 

Doremus,  Miss  F.  F.,  Preakness.  Piaget,  Mrs.  Alfred,  Paterson. 

Doremus,  Miss  M.  S.,  Preakness.  Quackenbush,  William  D.,  Paterson. 

Donkersley,  Mrs.  H.  S.,  Paterson.  Ryle,  Mrs.  Nora,  Paterson. 

Duryee,  Rev.  Abram,  Cherry  Hill.  Ryle,  Minnie,  Paterson. 

Fowler,  C.  H.,  Passaic.  Spreen,  Henrietta,  Paterson. 

Fowler,  Mrs.  C.  H.,  Passaic.  Schaub,  Henry,  Jr.,  Paterson. 

Fowler,  Fannie  A.,  Passaic.  Stiles,  Ezra  M.,  Paterson. 

Fowler,  Irmah,  Passaic.  Stiles,  Mrs.  Ezra  M.,  Paterson. 

Hartley,  Roy,  Paterson.  Stiles,  Miss  Helen,  Paterson. 

Hough,  Thomas,  Paterson.  Stiles,  Mary,  Paterson. 

Hough,  Mrs.  Thomas,  Paterson.  Stiles,  Margaret,  Paterson. 

Labar,  A.  I.,  Bangor,  Pa.  Stiles,  Beveridge,  Paterson. 

Miller,  John.  New  York.  Thompson,  Rev.  E.  W.,  Paterson. 

Mathews,  Mrs.  M.  E.,  Paterson.  Tompkins,  Miss  Bertha,  Paterson. 

Mitchell,  Myra,  Preakness.  Van  Winkle,  Bessie,  Passaic. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        135 
K^stone. 

The  car  Keystone,  as  its  name  would  indicate,  was  the 
most  significant  car  on  the  New  Jersey  Special.  Not  a  pas 
senger  on  this  car  who  will  not  fully  and  heartily  endorse 
this  statement.  The  name  "Keystone"  (and  there  is  much 
in  a  name)  means  something.  There  were  other  cars  on 
our  Special  that  had  names  that  seemingly  were  entirely 
meaningless.  Perhaps  the  one  who  christened  the  cars 
with  such  names  as  the  "Saale,"  "Proteus,"  "Burton,"  "Na- 
dura,"  could  tell  us  that  these  names  are  significant,  and 
have  a  meaning.  But  to  the  average  passenger  they  were 
names,  and  only  names.  There  was  the  car  "Hebrides," 
devoted  exclusively  to  the  use  of  the  ladies,  who  preferred 
to  be  separated  from  the  male  passengers.  In  their  female 
loneliness  they  began  the  study  of  the  name  of  the  car  in 
which  they  were  housed  in  their  trip  across  the  continent. 
They  associated  the  name  "Hebrides"  with  names  in  his 
tory  and  names  in  fiction.  In  fact  they  exhaust  their 
knowledge  of  history  and  geography,  and  fail  to  see  that  a 
group  of  islands  on  the  coast  of  Scotland  should  transfer 
their  name  to  a  car  that  is  speeding  its  way  across  the  great 
plains  of  the  United  States.  Finally  in  their  desperation, 
this  car,  into  which  not  a  man  pillowed  his  head,  except  the 
porter,  is  called  the  "He-brides."  The  car  "Epcom"  was 
suggestive.  In  fact  too  suggestive.  Not  to  mention  the 
names  of  other  cars,  which,  perhaps,  others  will  do.  We 
hasten  to  say  that  the  only  car  that  had  a  real  significant 
name,  a  name  that  means  something,  was  the  car  "Key 
stone."  We  all  know  the  importance  of  the  Keystone  in  the 
arch.  It  is  that  which  binds  the  whole  arch.  Without  it 
the  arch  would  not  be  able  to  hold  even  its  own  weight. 
But  with  it,  the  arch  becomes  capable  of  supporting  what- 


136        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

ever  may  rest  upon  it.  Now  the  car  "Keystone,"  either 
because  of  its  name,  or  some  unexplained  cause,  was  in 
point  of  position  the  most  significant  car  on  the  New  Jersey 
Special.  Its  place  in  the  second  section  was  about  midway 
of  the  train.  Thus  like  the  Keystone  in  the  arch  it  held  the 
train  together.  When  we  became  one  section  on  our 
return  trip,  the  "Keystone"  was  the  connecting  link  between 
that  which  was  known  as  the  first  and  second  sections,  and 
in  one  or  two  instance  when  the  train  was  reversed 
it  was  the  car  next  the  engine,  and  so  came  to  occupy  a 
very  important  position,  for  by  its  sturdy  grip  on  the  pant 
ing  locomotive,  it  drew  the  entire  train.  But  the  car  "Key 
stone"  was  a  famous  car  on  that  New  Jersey  Special,  not 
because  of  its  name,  nor  of  the  position  it  occupied,  but  be 
cause  of  the  occupants  of  this  car.  No  more  congenial 
spirits  ever  dwelt  together  than  those  who  travelled  for  nine 
days  and  nights  to  reach  the  Golden  Gate.  Youth  and  old 
age  found  in  each  other  delightful  companionship.  Wit, 
wisdom,  scholarship,  originality,  beauty,  refinement,  in  fact 
everything  that  could  contribute  to  the  delight  of  the  soul, 
was  to  be  found  in  the  car  "Keystone."  The  truth  is,  the 
car  Keystone,  and  it  might  as  well  be  spoken,  had  attrac 
tions  for  even  outsiders.  For  twice  was  one  of  our  fair 
passengers  relieved  of  her  pocketbook.  And  we  suspect 
there  were  some  who  even  lost  their  hearts.  Should  the 
youngest  passenger,  who  was  about  twelve,  live  to  be  four 
score  years,  we  believe  he  will  cherish  to  the  end  of  his  days 
the  fondest  recollections  of  the  noble  car  "Keystone." 

When  the  train  was  nearing  its  destination  at  Oakland, 
Cal.,  one  of  the  party  on  the  car  wrote  the  following: 

FAREWELL   TO    THE   KEYSTONE. 

There  is  a  car  upon  our  train, 

And  there  for  nine  days  has  remained. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        137 

And  now  a  change  we  hope  to  make 
And  bide  a  wee  at  the  Golden  Gate. 
Fare  thee  well !  Keystone,  we  leave  thee, 
Do  not  let  the  parting  grieve  thee, 
For  the  friendship  we  have  formed 
\Vill  long  remain,  remain. 

Adieu  !  adieu  !  Keystone,  adieu  ! 
We  can  no  longer  stay  with  you. 
But  in  our  hearts  a  place  will  save 
For  thee  and  friends  that  we  have  made. 
We're  glad  to  leave  the  desert  drear, 
And  all  the  ills  we  had  to  fear, 
And  now  our  journey's  almost  o'er, 
We  soon  shall  reach  the  golden  shore. 

Beekman,  Mrs.  Sarah  G.,  St.  Johns-  Martine,  Rev.  A.  I.,  Dunellen. 

ville.  N.  Y.  Moore,  J.  C.,  Elizabeth. 

Case,  Mr.,  Philadelphia.  McClellan,  D.  Y.,  West  Hoboken. 

Corfteld,  George  H.,  Jersey  City.  McGuire,  M.  Elizabeth,  Ewingville. 

Corfield,  Mrs.  George  H.,  Jersey  City.  Osborne,  Lemuel,  N.  Y.  City. 
Conselman,  Mrs.  J.  D.,  N.  Y.  City.  Patterson,  Henry,  Plainfleld. 
Conselman,  Theo.,  N.  Y.  City.  Phillips,  James,  Pennington. 

Craft,  Mrs.  E.  S.,  Washington.  Phillips,  Mrs.  James,  Pennington. 

Davenport,  Mrs.  Thos.,  Bound  Brook,   Powelson,  Edwin,  Bound  Brook. 
Davis,  Rev.  W.  E.,  Lebanon.  Stall,  Augusta,  Pottsville,  Pa. 

Dillman,  Augusta.  Mahanoy  City,  Pa.  Shields,  KateM.,  Washington. 
Groff,  Mary,  Fort  Plain,  N.  Y.  Smith,  K.  Maud,  Mahanoy  City,  Pa. 

Biggins,  Leila  M.,  Flemington.  Seymour,  Mrs.  James  M.,  Newark. 

Jeffreys,  Mrs.  O.,  Washington.  Wagner,  Hattie.  Mahanoy  City,  Pa. 

Kelley,  Myles,  West  Creek.  Wilcox,  Carra,  Erskine. 

Leavitt,  Mrs.  C,  B..  Trenton.  Wilcox,  Mrs.  S.  E..  Erskine. 

Doranfe. 

It  has  been  impossible  to  get  any  sketch  of  this  car.  The 
reason  cannot  be  lack  of  ability.  For  no  car  on  the  train 
had  more  literary  talent.  Those  who  were  asked  to  con 
tribute  may  have  thought  it  better  to  "live  in  deeds  and  not 
in  words." 


138        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

The  names  of  those  who  went  to  San  Francisco  on  this 
car  are  given,  as  they  have  been  gathered  from  many  unau- 
thentic  sources,  and  therefore,  probably,  with  many  errors. 


Baldwin,  Louise  A.,  Newark. 
Baldwin,  Lillian  M..  Newark. 
Britton,  Helen  S.,  Trenton, 
Busby,  Dr.,  Camden. 
Doremus,  W.  L.,  Montclair. 
Danges,  M.  D.,  C.  B.,  Camden. 
Dutcher,  Etta,  Newark. 
Hammond,  Anna  G.,  — — . 
Harrison,  Harriet,  Newark. 
Idell,  Mrs.  J.  B.,  Brooklyn. 
Johnson,  Mrs.  W.,  Newton. 
Johnson,  Miss  L.,  Newton. 
Lucey,  Margaret.  Jersey  City. 

Loring,  J.'C.. . 

Mac  Call,  Christine  S.,  Newark. 


Myer,  Eva,  Newark. 
Osborn,  Miss,  N.  Y.  City. 
Perry,  Jennie,  Brooklyn. 
Perry,  Nellie,  Brooklyn. 
Price,  Lizzie,  Elizabeth. 
Price,  Nellie,  Elizabeth. 
Parsons,  Adaline,  Plainfleld. 
Reese,  Amanda,  Phillipsburg. 
Robinson,  Mary,  Plainfleld. 
Sloane,  Mrs.  G.  W.,  Brooklyn. 
Sloane,  Miss  M.,  Brooklyn. 

Spencer,  Mabel, . 

Spencer,  Mary, . 

Schenck,  Nellie,  Holmdel. 
White,  Florence  DM  Jersey  City. 


Ihe  "New  Hampshire"  being  the  last  car  of  the  second 
section  of  the  New  Jersey  "Special,"  and  though  a  "Pull 
man,"  yet  not  being  vestibuled  (?)  and  thus  having  a  clear 
platform  from  which  a  fine  view  could  be  enjoyed,  was  very 
popular.  Indeed  there  was  danger  lest  the  occupants  of 
the  car  should  be  crowded  out  of  their  rights  by  those  from 
the  cars  ahead.  "Jacob,"  the  porter,  however,  proved  to 
be  equal  to  the  occasion,  and  kept  said  back  platform  rea 
sonably  clear  for  the  use  of  his  own  passengers.  Our  por 
ter  also  showed  great  honesty  in  handing  a  roll  of  bills  that 
he  picked  up  upon  the  floor  to  the  conductor,  so  that  it  was 
restored  to  its  rightful  owner. 

When  the  second  section  became  the  first,  as  was  the 
case  beyond  Kansas  City,  we  came  near  being  run  into  by 
that  which  had  formerly  been  ahead  of  us,  in  a  snow  shed 
with  a  curve  in  it.  This  was  owing  to  "criminal  negli- 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        139 

gence"  (so  said  an  official)  on  the  part  of  a  brakeman,  but 
fortunately  the  catastrophe  was  averted  just  in  time! 

Divine  service  was  held  aboard  the  car  on  Sabbath  after 
noon,  July  4th.  Rev.  Archibald  A.  Murphy,  of  New  Bruns 
wick,  N.  J.,  preached  from  St.  Mark  6:31:  "Come  ye  your 
selves  apart  into  a  desert  place,  and  rest  awhile."  A  text, 
the  first  part  of  which  was  thought  to  be  applicable  to  the 
country  through  which  we  were  passing  at  the  time.  The 
Rev.  J.  DeHart  Bruen,  of  Union  Seminary,  assisted  in  the 
service.  On  the  same  "Independence  Day"  the  passengers 
of  the  car  were  appropriately  decorated  with  red,  white  and 
blue  ribbon,  thoughtfully  brought  along  by  a  lady  from 
New  York  city. 

On  the  last  day  aboard,  a  mock  marriage  was  celebrated. 
The  bride  was  one  of  the  young  men  dressed  as  a  girl,  and 
the  groom  came  out  of  one  of  the  cars  ahead.  A  jolly  girl 
from  Hoboken  acted  as  bridesmaid,  and  Jacob,  the  porter, 
was  groomsman.  Instead  of  a  blessing,  the  officiating 
clergyman  gave  the  couple  a  sound  drubbing  over  the 
shoulders,  and  drove  them  from  the  car! 


Bruen,  H.  N.,  Belvidere. 
Bruen,  J.  H.,  Belvidere. 

Carney,  Elizabeth, . 

Crowdis,  Edwin  G.,  Princeton. 
Eick,  J.  H.,  Newark. 
Emery,  Mrs.  E.,  Somerville. 
Gilbert,  Analita,  Brooklyn. 
Growenwoldt,  Bertha,  Hoboken. 
James,  Abbie  H.,  Plaintield. 
Kemp,  Eva,  Mt.  Airy. 
Kemp,  Nellie,  Mt.  Airy. 
Lee,  Nina  M.,  Trenton. 
Loach,  Minnie  E.,  Elizabeth. 


Lyle,  William,  Hoboken. 
McGown,  Miss  B.,  Jersey  City. 
Murphy,  Rev.  A.  A.,  New  Brunswick. 
Eeed,  M.  D.,  Louis,  Somerville. 
Reed,  Mrs.  A.  E.,  Somerville. 
Rohn.  Mrs.  Helen  M.,  Raritan. 
Rudolph,  H.,  Newark. 
Rudolph,  Mrs.  H.,  Newark. 
Savage,  Rev.  C.  A.,  Orange. 
Smith,  Seymour  L.,  Brooklyn. 
Wheeler,  Miss  I.  H.,  Jersey  City. 
Witt,  Mrs.  C.  H.,  Hoboken. 
Wyckoff,  Mary,  Bedminster. 


The  following  poem  was  written  by  one  of  the  ladies  in 
Nadura : 


140        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA, 

BATTLE   OF  THE   HE-BRIDES. 

In  torrents  rain  was  falling, 
As  darksome  grew  the  night, 

A  band  of  lusty  warriors 
Went  forth  unto  the  fight. 

Full  well  they  knew  the  danger 
That  lurked  in  yonder  car, 

With  crafty  He-brides  waiting 
And  watching  from  afar. 

Nor  courage  lacked  they,  truly ; 

They  nerved  them  for  the  fray, 
And  boldly  stormed  the  entrance 

And  forced  the  passage  way. 

Then  up  those  He-brides  rising, 
With  fury  in  their  eye, 

With  Amazonian  courage, 
Resolved  to  win  or  die. 

O,  fiercely  flew  the  pillows 

And  smote  th'  encroaching  band, 

While  shrill  arose  the  war  cry 
Far  o'er  the  distant  land. 

The  porter  from  above  them 
Rained  down  his  blows  amain, 

But  up  arose  the  warriors 
And  hit  him  back  again. 

They  pummeled  Mr.  Fitzer 
Until  he  lost  his  specs, 

While  Sinkinson  and  Terhune 
Were  quite  reduced  to  wrecks. 

While  Kaighn  and  Graff,  the  active, 
Bold  Watermelon  tall, 

Dalrymple,  Robinson  and  Cook, 
Though  t  they  were  at  foot  ball. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        141 

They  fought  until  the  shadows 

Had  settled  o'er  the  hill, 
Then,  with  two  female  captives, 

Retreated,  fighting  still. 

The  He-brides,  still  undaunted, 

Exulting  waved  aloft 
The  hats  and  caps  they'd  taken, 

And  at  the  Warriors  scoffed. 

"Oh,  send  for  us  our  porter!" 

The  captive  maidens  sighed. 
"They'll  bury  a  coon  to-morrow, 

If  he  comes,"  the  men  replied. 

Then  Warne,  the  great  peacemaker, 

He  of  the  soothing  tone, 
Did  strive  to  reconcile  them, 

All  single  and  alone. 

The  war  of  words  that  followed — 

We  will  not  picture  that. 
At  length  th'  exchange  was  finished — 

A  maiden  for  a  hat. 

Then  Peace,  her  wings  extending, 
Outstretched  o'er  both  the  sides, 

Forgotten  was  the  battle — 
Nadura  and  He-brides. 

Christian  Endeavor  song.      Composed  on  board  New 
Jersey  Special,  en  route  to  San  Francisco,  '97: 

CHRISTIAN   ENDEAVOR   SONG. 

Tune — "Bringing  in  the  Sheaves" 

We're  Endeavorers  from  New  Jersey 
Workers  for  the  Master, 
Heeding  cot  the  perils 


142        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

Nor  hardships  on  the  way, 
Looking  unto  Jesus, 
Who  encamped  about  us, 
We  went  marching  forward 
Toward  the  Golden  Gate. 

\Rtpeal  last  two  lines  for  chorus."] 

Journeying  o'er  the  desert, 
On  the  rolling  prairie, 
Over  Father  of  Waters 
Toward  the  Golden  Gate. 
Through  the  mountain  gorges, 
In  the  depths  of  canons, 
Sunset  found  us  nearer 
To  the  Golden  Gate. 

Now  by  snow-capped  mountain, 
Then  by  rushing  torrent 
Still  our  way  we  wended 
Toward  the  Golden  Gate. 
Trusting  still  in  Jesus, 
Who  had  led  us  forward, 
We  kept  pressing  onward 
Toward  the  Golden  Gate. 

At  last  we  reached  the  waters 
Of  the  peaceful  ocean, 
And  bathed  our  weary  feet 
Within  its  cooling  waves. 
We  journeyed  from  the  East-land 
Until  we  reached  the  west-land, 
And  then  our  journey  ended, — 
At  the  Golden  Gate. 

Still  a  longer  journey 
We're  taking  with  the  Master, 
From  these  earthly  sufferings 
To  a  home  beyond  the  skies. 
Though  oft  we  tread  the  thorn-paths 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        143 

We'll  follow  in  His  footsteps, — 
Soon  we'll  share  His  glory 
Within  the  Golden  Gate. 


The  ladies  of  the  Hebrides  for  their  own  amusement,  and 
to  preserve  a  record  of  the  startling  events  that  transpired 
in  their  car  on  the  night  of  July  16,  issued  a  paper  called 
the  "Hebrides  Herald."  A  copy  was  sent  to  the  passen 
gers  of  the  Sydenham  and  the  Nadura,  their  nearest 
neighbors.  We  insert  some  of  the  articles  of  the  "Herald" 
and  the  resolutions  adopted  by  the  Sydenhamites : 

Hebrides    Herald. 


JULY  7,  1897. 


A  RAID  UPON  THE  HEBRIDES. 


Bad,   Bold   Men   Invade  the  Car — The    Occupants    Boldly    De* 

fended   Themselves — Loss  of    Blood  and  Property  on  Both 

Sides — Two  of  the  He* Brides  Captured — They  Languish 

for  a  Long  Time  Among  the  Raiders,  but 

are   Finally   Restored. 


To-day  we  send  out  our  first  issue  of  the  "Hebrides  Her 
ald,"  and  we  bespeak  for  it  a  hearty  patronage.  So  many 
startling  events  have  followed  each  other  in  such  rapid 
succession  that  out  of  the  philanthropic  spirit  which  pre- 


10 


144        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

vails  in  the  Hebrides  was  conceived  the  idea  of  preserving 
to  this  train  and  the  world  a  record  of  them. 

We  feel  sure  that  if  one  copy  be  read  orders  will  come 
in  thick  and  fast.  Our  talent  is  of  the  highest  order  and  a 
rare  treat  is  before  you. 

About  9  o'clock  last  evening  the  He-brides  was  visited 
by  a  very  fine  minstrel  troupe  led  by  Mr.  Davis. 

They  rendered  several  pieces,  all  of  which  were  very 
plaintive  and  effective  in  the  extreme.  All  the  He-brides 
were  dissolved  in  tears,  and  the  wailings  which  mingled 
with  the  strains  of  music  were  truly  heartrending. 

The  occupants  of  the  car  showed  their  appreciation  of.  the 
fine  entertainment,  throwing  bouquets  and  a  handsome 
remunerative  collection  in  a  hat. 

THE     FIRST     CHAPTER     OF     THE     BOOK      OF     THE     CHRONICLES     OF 
THE    HEBRIDES. 

Now  it  came  to  pass  in  the  days  of  William  the  chief  ruler, 
that  some  of  the  sons  and  daughters  of  the  East  said  one  to 
another.  Let  us  go  far  away  even  to  the  land  of  Gold  and 
hold  a  Convention  in  the  name  of  those  with  whom  we  are 
associated.  And  because  there  were  numbers  in  the  land 
of  Jersey  who  were  so  inclined  they  said,wewill  go  with  them. 
And  Titus  and  Daniel  and  others  said  we  will  prepare  the 
way  before  them: 

And  they  departed  from  the  city  of  Gotham  on  the  eighth 
and  twentieth  day  of  the  sixth  month. 

And  many  joined  them  on  their  way.  And  there  were 
others  to  lead  them,  but  Titus  was  chief.  And  they  had 
with  them  one  Edward  named  Theophilus  of  the  family  of 
Simmions  who  so  conducted  them  on  their  journey  that  he 
greatly  endeared  himself  to  all. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.         145 

And  when  they  came  to  the  great  city  whither  they  went, 
many  received  them  courteously. 

And  others  came  from  the  East  and  from  the  West,  from 
the  North  and  from  the  South  and  convened  with  them. 

And  when  the  days  were  fulfilled  they  said :  we  will  return 
to  the  land  of  our  home  and  of  our  nativity.  And  they 
did  so. 

Now  it  was  at  the  beginning  that  because  there  were 
among  the  Jerseyites  many  widows  and  maidens,  Titus  said: 
we  will  put  them  one  by  another,  and  they  shall  have  none 
to  molest  or  make  them  afraid,  and  he  did  so.  Therefore 
were  they  called  He-brides.  But  it  came  to  pass  on  the  eve 
of  the  sixteenth  day  of  the  seventh  month,  that  the  young 
men  who  were  their  neighbors,  said,  among  themselves,  we 
will  go  and  see  those  with  whom  we  have  had  friendly  in 
tercourse  and  see  how  they  do. 

So  they  came  with  great  friendliness  of  manner. 

But  the  maidens  were  startled  and  resisted  them  with 
weapons  and  with  great  vigor. 

Then  they  said  we  will  retreat  with  quietness  and  bravery. 
But  they  were  assaulted  more  and  more  and  their  progress 
was  obstructed,  so  that  they  could  turn  neither  to  the  right 
hand  or  to  the  left. 

And  Edward  the  porter  also  fought  valiantly  for  those 
whom  he  had  in  charge. 

But  Milliu,  the  daughter  of  Lawrence,  whose  surname 
was  Trimmer,  and  Lilla,  the  wife  of  Edwin,  were  taken  in 
captive  and  remained  in  bondage. 

But  Daniel  who  was  also  called  Ruby,  who  had  warned 
us  on  our  way,  came  with  the  flag  of  truce  and  peace  was 
declared  and  the  captives  returned  to  their  waiting  com 
panions. 


146        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 


i.      Man,  car, 
Friday  night, 
Great  raid, 
Pillow  fight. 

II.  He-brides, 
Great  uproar, 
Take  stand 
On  the  floor. 

III.  Men  crawl 

On  hands  and  knees. 
Pillows  fly 
Thick  as  fleas. 

IV.  Caps  lost, 
Glasses  broken, 
Heels  taken 
As  a  token. 


VI. 


VII. 


Girl  caught, 
Carried  off, 
He-brides 
Only  laugh. 

Man  sent, 
Flag  of  truce, 
Much  talk, 
No  use. 


V. 


Men  pass 
By  the  Porter, 
Soon  decide 
Not  to  loiter. 


VIII.  Caps  fixed, 
As  a  ransom, 
Such  treatment, 
Very  handsome. 

IX.  Peace  declared. 
Treaty  signed, 
He-brides 

Of  one  mind. 

X.  That  when  it's  time 
To  go  to  bed, 
Nadura  wants  lunch 
In  the  car  ahead. 


HE-BRIDES   TO   THE   RESCUE. 

They  come !  they  come  !  a  thousand  strong, 
With  cannon's  roar  and  clashing  steel ; 
Arise  !  arise  !  in  might  and  strength, 
And  with  your  prowess  do  the  throng — 
He-brides  to  the  rescue. 

Each  woman  seize  her  sabre  white, 
And  there  her  strong,  right  arm  uplift ; 
Let  each  one  see  the  blow's  not  SLIGHT — 
Whack  !  slap  !  shout  and  clap — 
He-brides  to  the  rescue. 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        147 

Hark !  from  the  enemy  retreat  is  called, 
And  forth  they  go  with  saddened  mien ; 
With  battered  hats  and  heads  they  go — 
And  in  the  fray  there  was  many  a  fall — 
He-brides  to  the  rescue. 

Hurrah !  the  victory  is  yours — 
Your  general  led  you  brave  and  true ! 
Death  to  him  who  at  you  sneers 
While  we  are  on  this  best  of  tours — 
Fair  He-brides,  you're  Queen. 

Advance,  Oh  men  of  Nadura 
Strong,  ran  the  battle  cry, 
But  ere  they  reached  the  inner  door 
The  pillows  began  to  fly. 

Then  waged  the  war 
Both  fierce  and  long, 
The  girls  all  right, 
The  men  all  wrong. 

Again  the  foe  did  gain  the  door, 
Again  were  beaten  back, 
Two  fair  young  captives  gained 
Were  meekly  handed  back. 

So  ended  all  the  fray, 

Their  lesson  learned  had  they, 

And  the  warriors  of  the  Hebrides 

Float  a  victorious  banner  to  the  breeze. 

I  am  asked  to  write  a  story 

Of  the  people  on  this  train, 
We've  funny  folks  and  sunny  folks, 

And  pretty  ones  and  plain. 

The  first  is  our  Conductor, 

A  little  man,  and  slow, 
And  to  everything  we  ask  him 

He  replies :  "  I  do  not  know." 


148        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

The  next  is  Mr.  Davis, 

His  patience  far  excels 
A  noted  man  of  ancient  times 

Of  whom  the  Bible  tells. 

Mr.  Warne,  on  our  committee, 

Is  brave  and  true  and  bright ; 
He  hastened  to  our  rescue 

In  the  riot  of  last  night. 

And  there  is  Mr.  Dyott, 

So  spiritual  and  good, 
He  is  constantly  dispensing 

Our  heavenly  drink  and  food. 

The  next  is  our  good  porter, 

He  serves  us  night  and  day, 
He  is  always  kind  and  patient 

If  we  let  him  have  his  way. 

And  there  are  many  others 

Whom  I  would  like  to  name, 
And  give  them  honored  mention 

Upon  this  roll  of  fame. 

Their  bright  and  sunny  faces, 

Their  words  of  kindly  cheer, 
Will  linger  in  our  memories 

For  many  a  coming  year. 

But  the  train  keeps  moving  onward, 
And  we  soon  must  say  good  bye, 

God  grant  we  all  may  gather 
At  the  Golden  Gate  on  high. 

SYDENHAM    RESOLUTIONS. 

Whereas,  It  hath  seemed  good  unto  the  innocent  maidens 
and  still  hopeful  widows  of  the  Hebrides  to  send  unto 
their  neighbors  the  exemplary,  esteemed,  honored,  and 


NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97.        149 

illustrious  Sydenhamites,  an  engrossed  copy  of  their  artis 
tically  illustrated,  erudite,  felicitous,  voluminous  and 
exhaustive  paper,  entitled  "The  Hebrides  Herald"  of  July 
the  1 7th,  A.  D.  1897;  and 

Whereas,  The  contents  of  said  paper  revealed  the  sad  ca 
lamity  which  befell  the  unsuspecting  and  unprotected 
.inhabitants  of  the  He-brides,  upon  the  night  of  the  i6th 
instant,  when  a  band  of  midnight  marauders,  with  malice 
aforethought  and  evil  intent,  made  a  fierce  onslaught; 
and 

Whereas,  These  defenseless  females  so  valiantly  resisted 
and  ultimately  routed  the  barbarians  wih  loss  of  blood, 
feathers,  shoe  heels,  frizzes,  pillow  cases,  physical  energy, 
et  cetera,  sleep  and  so  forth ;  and 

Whereas,  Two  of  the  fairest  flowers  that  bloom  in  the  gar 
den  of  the  He-brides  were  rudely  plucked    by    ruthless 
hands,  and  forced  to  droop  and  wither  for  a  season  in  the 
pestilential  atmosphere  of  their  Nadurian  prison;   there 
fore,  be  it 

Resolved,  That  the  exemplary,  esteemed,  honored,  and  il 
lustrious  Sydenhamites  do  hereby  express  their  profound 
appreciation  of  the  merits  of  the  artistically  illustrated  eru 
dite,  felicitous,  voluminous  and  exhaustive  paper,  and  their 
unfeigned  gratitude;  therefore,  and  be  it  further 

Resolved,  That  they  extend  their  sincere,  heart  searching, 
heart  rending,  overwhelming  and  all-sufficient  sympathy  to 
these  harmless  creatures  for  the  indignities  and  irreparable 
loss  which  they  sustained  at  the  hands  of  the  foe;  and  be 
it  further 

Resolved,  That  hearty  congratulations  be  extended  to  the 
injured  and  innocent  for  their  unprecedented  achievements 
manifested  in  their  complete  annihilation  of  the  enemy,  and 


150        NEW  JERSEY  TO  CALIFORNIA,  '97. 

the  restoration  of  their  fair  flowers  to  their  Hebridesian 
paradise;    and  be  it  further 

Resolved,  That  a  copy  of  these  resolutions  be  spread  upon 
the  minutes  of  the  New  Jersey  Special,  and  placed  in  the 
archives  of  the  New  Jersey  Historical  Society,  and  that  a 
copy  be  sent  to  the  once  suffering,  but  now  triumphant  He 
brides. 


!JMt 


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